Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Tires, Tires, Tires!
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-17-2019, 07:57 AM   #1
SummitPond
Senior Member
 
SummitPond's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Northeast Florida/Southeast Maine
Posts: 784
An interesting way to handle a tire blowout

Saw this on a sister site (doityourselfrv.com). Interesting video. Does the same approach hold for pulling a TT?

__________________

Now: 2019 Winnebago 2500FL w/e2 WDH;Sold: 2015 Bullet Premier 19FBPR (shown)
2012 Ford F-250 Lariat Super Duty Crew Cab (gas 6.2 L, 3.73 gear ratio 2WD, 172" WB)
SummitPond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2019, 06:45 PM   #2
RK1978
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Romney Indiana
Posts: 91
Just saw this. As one who has had blowouts on semi trailers and rear axle tires, and (as of last trip) on our 26' Hideout, I agree with the part about not hitting the brakes, but not about adding power. I want to gradually slow by reducing power at a controlled rate and coasting to a stop. Real life blowouts are not this easy, especially when the tire explodes into the upper wheelwell and tears it apart. (tire that was due for replacement this summer, was checked for inflation every morning and checked for temperature at EVERY stop).
RK1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2019, 07:02 PM   #3
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,598
I would disagree with the video. "Hitting" the gas pedal can mitigate some situations of sway and enable you to "straighten it out". In a blowout, no. Hit the brakes? No. Maintain speed; don't hit the brakes then slowly let off the go pedal. Slowly. When you have adjusted control over whatever the blown tire does to you (front is different than rear; TV is different than RV) gently apply brakes and take it to the side. In any tire failure, any unexpected situation - moderation is the key. You can't just jerk things hither and yon nor slam the brakes OR the go pedal. Moderation and awareness - which leaves the texters, talkers, gawkers, and those "others" in the "you gotta watch" category.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2019, 08:35 AM   #4
Ken / Claudia
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Fruitland
Posts: 3,357
All of my vehicle training emergencies said coast to a stop, plan on steering through the emergency. He was right the vehicle will pull hard to the side of the blowout. It is caused by rolling resistance has changed. You need to counter that or crash. Same as a skid, hydro planning, the friction or resistance on a tire has changed and you must counter it. Most want to brake, always wrong and will help losing control normally ends in a crash with the driver standing on the brake pedal and going were the vehicle wants to go. Some oversteer to counter the new pull and direction the vehicle wants to go.
Using more throttle to continue, I never had that training.
I have had blowouts and rapid loss of air in tires. I get foot off throttle and hold on tight, steer to go where you want to vehicle to go.
I watched a blowout on the front driver side tire on a class A several years ago. I posted about it. The vehicle was in front of me, I seen and heard the tire blow. The driver braked and never let off the brakes. The MH went from the outer 3rd lane to inside shoulder and back. Any cars in it's path would have ended badly. None were, thankfully.
My heaviest load with a blowout was f350 with a 4,000 lb truck camper in the bed. I was around 70 mph. Left rear blew out. I coasted to the shoulder and found I was on the rim for aways. That rim was OK and used for years after that.
Highest speed with a blowout was around 110 mph left rear tire. Coasted to a stop without brakes until only at walk speed. No problem. Changed out wheel/tire and continued working.
__________________
2013 24RKSWE (27ft TT) Cougar 1/2 ton series SOLD 10-2021
2013 Ford F350 4x4 CC 6.7 engine, 8 ft bed, 3.55 rear end, lariat package
Retired from Oregon State Police in 2011 than worked another 9.5 years as a small town traffic cop:
As of 05-2020, I am all done with 39 years total police work. No more uniforms for me.
Ken / Claudia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2019, 01:48 PM   #5
RCW
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Pickerington
Posts: 45
Not sure about MHs, but one thing to keep in mind is that most new vehicles have traction and stability control systems that work off of wheel speed and yaw rate sensors. After a blow out the wheel speed reading for that wheel will no longer be accurate.
RCW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2019, 07:38 PM   #6
rhagfo
Senior Member
 
rhagfo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,176
I am one that will say YES to adding power! Braking is the worst thing you can do, it will unbalance the vehicle. I am not saying stomp on the throttle, but apply gentle power until you have directional control. Then do a controlled deceleration, this will start with removing power, then gentle braking.
Yes, the procedure is counter intuitive, but may save your life.

One thing I was taught learning to drive, was never brake in a turn, (this may seem unrelated), apply gentle power, come out faster than going in. Gentle power balances a vehicle, braking unbalances it.
This has process has saved my a$$ more than once going into a corner too fast, yes I came out faster!! Had I braked in those situations I might not be here writing this now.
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
rhagfo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2019, 07:57 PM   #7
Ken / Claudia
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Fruitland
Posts: 3,357
Rhagfo, your right about braking during or in a curve. Don't do it, do all braking before the curve and apply the throttle after about half way though it. It is real smooth and controllable. I do it all the time, best to practice it in every vehicle I drive. The other important thing about a curve is the line you take though it. That takes a lot of explaining. Sort version is you can go high, low, high through the curve like some race cars. It's real hard to master. Best, quickest, safest way is high, high, low. That means you drive on the outside of the lane at the start through half way, then go tight inside as you speed up. I also practice that most times while driving, even towing. So on a right curve you travel near the left edge, not in the center of the lane. Continue til exiting the curve and then travel near the right edge of the lane not the center.
__________________
2013 24RKSWE (27ft TT) Cougar 1/2 ton series SOLD 10-2021
2013 Ford F350 4x4 CC 6.7 engine, 8 ft bed, 3.55 rear end, lariat package
Retired from Oregon State Police in 2011 than worked another 9.5 years as a small town traffic cop:
As of 05-2020, I am all done with 39 years total police work. No more uniforms for me.
Ken / Claudia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2019, 08:33 PM   #8
rhagfo
Senior Member
 
rhagfo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia View Post
Rhagfo, your right about braking during or in a curve. Don't do it, do all braking before the curve and apply the throttle after about half way though it. It is real smooth and controllable. I do it all the time, best to practice it in every vehicle I drive. The other important thing about a curve is the line you take though it. That takes a lot of explaining. Sort version is you can go high, low, high through the curve like some race cars. It's real hard to master. Best, quickest, safest way is high, high, low. That means you drive on the outside of the lane at the start through half way, then go tight inside as you speed up. I also practice that most times while driving, even towing. So on a right curve you travel near the left edge, not in the center of the lane. Continue til exiting the curve and then travel near the right edge of the lane not the center.
The point was braking unbalances the vehicle, slightly accelerating balances it, this is why to maintain control after a blowout one should slightly apply throttle. Once in directional control, then start slowing in a controlled manner.
The biggest cause of loss of control in a blow out situation is panic braking.
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
rhagfo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2019, 07:21 AM   #9
Ken / Claudia
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Fruitland
Posts: 3,357
Yeah, I know all that stuff, the vehicle, any vehicle experiences yaw. pitch and roll (real names) just moving along the road. All that movement is many times greater when stopping, turning. Add braking in a panic turn or stop and it changes those forces, normally in a bad way. I got to experience that stuff on a track at high speed as part of training. They made us do wrong stuff to experience the spinouts. The vehicles would turn off traction control and Anti lock brakes.
__________________
2013 24RKSWE (27ft TT) Cougar 1/2 ton series SOLD 10-2021
2013 Ford F350 4x4 CC 6.7 engine, 8 ft bed, 3.55 rear end, lariat package
Retired from Oregon State Police in 2011 than worked another 9.5 years as a small town traffic cop:
As of 05-2020, I am all done with 39 years total police work. No more uniforms for me.
Ken / Claudia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2019, 05:13 PM   #10
SummitPond
Senior Member
 
SummitPond's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Northeast Florida/Southeast Maine
Posts: 784
Do I assume the general consensus is to correct for steering issues and let off the gas without hitting the brake and coast to a stop and NOT push the pedal to the metal to get out of a situation like this?
__________________

Now: 2019 Winnebago 2500FL w/e2 WDH;Sold: 2015 Bullet Premier 19FBPR (shown)
2012 Ford F-250 Lariat Super Duty Crew Cab (gas 6.2 L, 3.73 gear ratio 2WD, 172" WB)
SummitPond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2019, 06:32 PM   #11
sourdough
Site Team
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,598
I don't know what the general consensus is; I can tell you from experience that with a blowout "hitting the gas" is very counterproductive...dangerous IMO. With a sudden problem of "sway" with the RV acceleration can sometimes minimize those effects.

With a blowout, or any other sudden change in the tire/suspension systems, take firm control of the steering wheel! Don't yank, pull or over correct - keep it straight. I tell my wife in the event of a "bang" from a tire to stiffen the arms and hold the wheel straight. Then, let off the gas slowly, or you can do it immediately, won't make much difference. Do not brake immediately - control the vehicle. Once you've "stiff armed" the vehicle and have control you can lightly apply the brakes to bring her down. If you apply too much brake you can feel it try to pull to wherever the blown tire is (front) and it will take you there. Moderation. Do not overreact. Don't yank the wheel - keep it straight. Keep a level head.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
sourdough is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2019, 07:11 PM   #12
rhagfo
Senior Member
 
rhagfo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,176
Quote:
Originally Posted by SummitPond View Post
Do I assume the general consensus is to correct for steering issues and let off the gas without hitting the brake and coast to a stop and NOT push the pedal to the metal to get out of a situation like this?
The steering correction is assisted with applying slight throttle.
On edit: apply light throttle counter acts the pull of the blown tire, that tire will pull you that direction, throttle will help keep you going straight.
__________________
Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32’ GVWR 12,360
Visit and enjoy Oregon State Parks
rhagfo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.