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Old 12-28-2017, 05:49 AM   #1
UNISOL
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Heater not working

Good morning, woke up in 20 degree weather with no heat. Usually use electric at night, but like to turn RV heater on first thing in the morning. Here are the specifics:

1. Both tanks are almost full.
2. There is air flow through the vents.
3. The furnace is making the sounds, as if it were attempting to light but not getting the fuel needed.

I am of the mind it could have something to do with the regulator attached to the pigtails outside, but will have to wait until this afternoon to check. Maybe it is dirty. I was able to cook and use the heater as of last night, but this morning the heater would not work. I did not check the stove. 2013 Keystone Raptor Toy Hauler. Thank you for any help / guidance, gonna be freezing here over the next few days.
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:58 AM   #2
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Do the water heater and stovetop light properly? If so, you may have a furnace problem. If they don't light either, it's a propane issue.
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Old 12-28-2017, 06:22 AM   #3
UNISOL
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Hot water was working, but did not get the chance to check the stove this morning. Like I said earlier though; the furnace is making the normal noises it would if it were trying to ignite, but acts as if it is not getting sufficient fuel. Thank you for your response.
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Old 12-28-2017, 07:06 AM   #4
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You will need to verify that you have propane flow to the stove and it works properly. Your water heater would give you hot water if it's running on AC.

If it's making the normal noises but won't ignite it sounds like 1) lack of fuel, 2) bad board or 3) something is dirty. Did you move or change the regulator (tank)?
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Old 12-28-2017, 07:55 AM   #5
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First off; on 50 years of marriage, that is truly awesome! Secondly, I am tracking all of what you said, save the bad board portion. I checked the fuses and they were good, are you referring to the circuit board??
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Old 12-28-2017, 09:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNISOL View Post
First off; on 50 years of marriage, that is truly awesome! Secondly, I am tracking all of what you said, save the bad board portion. I checked the fuses and they were good, are you referring to the circuit board??

Thank you. Yes, I was referring to the circuit board. Mine acted similarly once upon a time but it did ignite for a second, then shut off. Had to replace the board. Yours really sounds like a propane issue but if everything else works it's either the board or the burner/ignition system seems to me. I'm sure others will chime in with their thoughts as well.
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Old 12-28-2017, 10:11 AM   #7
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Propane turns to a gas at very low temperatures but it slows down significantly at temperatures below about 20F. The less propane in the tank, the less liquid that will turn into gas and flow to the regulator. Next is the regulator, probably the most "sensitive" part of the system. Any water vapor in the regulator can cause it to stop flowing propane in the gas form. So, if the regulator gets "iced up" (something that happens in high humidity on cold nights) it may stop the flow of propane in the line to your appliances. That's why we're asking if the stove/water heater were operating normally. The water heater, as sourdough said, can be operated on electricity or propane (or both) and the tank will stay hot for several hours after propane stops flowing, so having hot water to wash your hands may not be an indication of anything not working properly on the propane side of the water heater. That's why I asked if the stove was operational.

Keep in mind that when you get back to the trailer this afternoon, if the sun has warmed the regulator, you may find that everything operates normally and will continue to do so, until the temperature falls again. The next time (hopefully it won't happen) but.... the next time the furnace stops working, try to determine if you have propane flow to the stove burners. If you do, then you have a furnace problem, probably the circuit board, but, on the other hand, if you can't light a stovetop burner, it's probably a problem with the propane flow, possibly the regulator.
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Old 12-28-2017, 10:50 AM   #8
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Good information from others, only thing I would add is when you check that stove I would turn on all burners at once to simulate the flow required by the furnace. Good Luck
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:14 AM   #9
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Same basic in in our 2018 Montana High Country 310re. Ours would start-stop-start-stop and if it blew any air, it was cold. Found we had to turn the thermostat off “auto” (for the heat pump). Had heat, but still intermittent. Technician found Keystone used a “self healing fuze” (15 amp, dark blue color) on the furnace (slot #6 on our panel). Never heard of one before. Turns out they can reset themselves like a circuit breaker. He pulled it out and replaced with a standard 15 amp. Had heat OK, but we still have an electrical issue. Nudge your fuze to see if you get a spark....you shouldn’t, but might. We do. Bad connection in the converter panel. Regulators can fail or wear out, but are so simple it’s not likely an issue. Only had to replace one once in our 1964 Fireball vintage camper, for example. That was old! Make sure you “point” the switchover knob/arm to the tank you want to use. You can leave it in the middle position, but won’t know your level is out until the furnace won’t light. Furnaces take a lot more gas than a stove even with all burners going. But turning them on helps prove the gas is flowing after tank switches for refills. There will also be air in the line, so make sure you run the burners long enough to bleed the system. Good luick.


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Old 02-13-2018, 06:54 AM   #10
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We had a similar issue stove worked fine, knew furnace was good as I had it bench tested just before as it had a strange flame noise at times. Didn’t check WH as run on both electric and gas. Replaced the regulator and all is great.
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