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Old 09-07-2018, 11:04 AM   #1
01soundman
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Winterizing/freezing concerns

I've started typing this thread (and subsequently deleted it) several times. I hesitate to post it even now; this has been generally covered LOTS of times.

But after all that reading I still have enough doubt that my innate paranoia is being fed waaay too much.

Here's the question: How much 'frozen air' can a camper (in this case a 2017 Springdale 271RL w/Arctic Package) tolerate before pipes/valves/seals are damaged/burst?

I called Keystone Customer Service earlier and talked to a very helpful gentleman who understandably gave me guidelines but nothing concrete.

Being more of a by-the-book guy than not, I would love to see it documented that "Damaging conditions will not occur if the daytime temperature is above 50 degrees for 8 or more hours and the nighttime temperature does not fall below 32 degrees for more than 6 hours." (The extreme/paranoid version is "Once temps fall below 32 degrees, winterize the sucker and enjoy watching TV at home until spring.")

The reality of the above seems, however, that there are too many variables (wind, amount of shade, etc.) for such a statement to be made.

AND consider the above under two different circumstances: (1) while actively camping and (2) while sitting at the storage lot before winterization.

Ok. There it is. Anyone want to wade into this? There are several folks I respect here and value their input. What do the experienced campers do?
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Old 09-07-2018, 11:43 AM   #2
KeithInUpstateNY
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I get the whole "by the book" perspective, but unfortunately as you said there are just too many variables for hard and fast rules as to when pipes will freeze.

What I can share is that I camped in my 2015 Bullet 220RBI with the Artic Package the last two falls in upstate NY near the Canadian border on mostly shaded sites in a State Forest and did not have any pipes freeze even when night time temps dropped to the mid 20s and day temps were only in the 40s.

After the first fall I had the top and the living side wall of the pass through storage insulated with rigid foam because the mattress was always cold, and it was much better the second fall.

The other problem with cold weather camping you need to stay on top of is moisture, and the resulting mold/mildew problems. Especially watch areas under and behind cushions that are against outside walls and inside closets and cupboards.

Good luck with figuring out your comfort zone.
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Old 09-07-2018, 01:38 PM   #3
01soundman
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Excellent input. Thank you!

I also edited my original post to help clarify:
"AND consider the above under two different circumstances: (1) while actively camping and (2) while sitting at the storage lot before winterization."
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Old 09-07-2018, 03:13 PM   #4
KeithInUpstateNY
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As for sitting at the storage lot before winterizing when I was dropping it off on a Friday at the end of October (i.e. it would be sitting for at least the weekend with overnight temps in the mid to upper 20s again) the technician at my dealer said to empty the tanks (fresh and hot water), open the low point drains and all the faucets and it should be fine until he could get to winterizing it. That way any water left in the lines had room to expand in the lines without putting pressure on them. And it seems it was, I didn't have any issues the next spring. But Chuckster57 would be a good one to check with.
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Old 09-07-2018, 04:14 PM   #5
hdrolling
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We finished our camping season here in NC a few weeks ago, as soon as I put it in storage I winterized it.

For two reasons 1) It's cheap and easy to do

2) Last year I waited too long and thought I had time before it got too cold and I ended up having to replace all kinds of toilet valves, sinks gaskets and shower handles on our first trip this year.

If we end up using it again this year it's easy to flush and then to winterize again but after the mess this year I'm not taking any chances over a few bucks worth of RV antifreeze.
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