30 Amp Receptacle Replacement

theasphaltrv'er · 02-20-2014, 05:25 PM

My 30 amp setup is to say the least is "crapola". The Jbox is housed in a little 10"W x 10"H x 13"D cubbie hole on the back street side of the 5er and under it is the water pump (same size cubbie hole) and the cobweb of hoses (that's another story). Any way, I replaced the Jbox with the Progressive 30amp EMS system I took out of our former TT. Trying to get the last 8 to 10 inches of the cord back in the hole is a real job cuz the small size of the cubbie hole it's housed in. My question to you electrical experts. I would like to remove the inlet fitting where the cable slides into the 5er and replace it with a 30 amp outlet fitting so I can plug the cord into it and then unplug it and store it in the storage bin. What I'm looking for is one that is round & hopefully the same diameter (5 & 1/8) so it would fit in the same hole. Our RV stores here have nothing even close & I've been searching the internet but have not found anything yet. Have any of you done this mod and/or know of any outlets (stores) that might have anything close to what is in the side of the 5er. Any and all ideas welcomed.

Thanks
Milo

Festus2 · 02-20-2014, 05:42 PM

Milo -

Marinco has a 30A adapter/conversion kit which I installed at the rear of our RV. I got tired of fighting with cord and trying to push it all the way into the compartment. I also found that the cord somehow managed to tangle itself in such a state that it formed a knot inside and I couldn't pull it out.

You can buy the pieces separately or get it in kit form. I ended up buying a new cord with the 30A twist lock end on it. Now I take out the separate cord, attach it to the Marinco female end and no more worries about gremlins who rejoice in making knots in the cord.

I think CW has either the kit or the separate components ---- 30A cord conversion kit .

**JRTJH** · 02-20-2014, 05:58 PM

The cheapest Ive found the Marinco kit is at Amazon.com. Here's the link:

http://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mari...+30+amp+rv+kit

Amazon also has an "off brand" that supposedly is just as good as Marinco, but I can't attest to the quality. I went with Marinco because I know what quality it is. Anyway, here's the Connnetk kit. It's about $40 cheaper than Marinco.

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RV30CV...+30+amp+rv+kit

Now, if when you start trying to install the kit and the adapter plate won't cover your entire present cutout for the mousehole, don't panic. Simply go to WalMart, buy a white plastic cutting board and fabricate your own plate to install over the mousehole.

I think either kit will work well for most RV use, as I said, I went with Marinco because I've always had good luck with their products and I know the quality is good.

TandE · 02-20-2014, 06:52 PM

Also check camping world. I just saw at mine yesterday that they had the furrion version of those on clearance for 85. On the last one I picked up a marinco one on clearance for 75. But the one Jrtjh posted for 50 is a great deal.

Travis

theasphaltrv'er · 02-20-2014, 07:16 PM

How is this idea? ..What if I leave the original inlet receptacle there (pass thru) and cut the cord and put a female plug on the part that comes from the 5er and a male plug on the shore cord or vise versa and plug em together and just push the female plug just back in the inlet door and close the door when not in use or in motion. When both are hooked together it could be just inside the door to keep it from getting wet. You think that would work. Hope I explained it right.

TandE · 02-20-2014, 07:22 PM

It should work but how much are you going to spend on the pieces compared the kit? Especially the 50 dollar one posted above?

Travis

**hankpage** · 02-20-2014, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theasphaltrv'er

How is this idea? ..What if I leave the original inlet receptacle there (pass thru) and cut the cord and put a female plug on the part that comes from the 5er and a male plug on the shore cord or vise versa and plug em together and just push the female plug just back in the inlet door and close the door when not in use or in motion. When both are hooked together it could be just inside the door to keep it from getting wet. You think that would work. Hope I explained it right.

That would be the easy way ... using Hubbel plug and connector would cost around $65. + shipping unless you get them local.

ColoChuck · 02-21-2014, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theasphaltrv'er

How is this idea? ..What if I leave the original inlet receptacle there (pass thru) and cut the cord and put a female plug on the part that comes from the 5er and a male plug on the shore cord or vise versa and plug em together and just push the female plug just back in the inlet door and close the door when not in use or in motion. When both are hooked together it could be just inside the door to keep it from getting wet. You think that would work. Hope I explained it right.

I really like that idea! Simple, and takes care of the problem.

PARAPTOR · 02-21-2014, 12:25 PM

If I understand what you are doing that method would also give you the capability of installing a hardwired EMS. Install appropriate cable and plugs to the input and output sides of the EMS and basically just plug it in. In event EMS fails simply unplug it and you are ready to go again

Bob Landry · 02-21-2014, 03:08 PM

I cut my cord with enough on the trailer end to hardwire to the EMS, then cut another piece to go from the EMS to a hardwired inlet, so I can have a detachable cord. I personally don;t see much to be gained by any of this if you still have to fish out a plug and connect to it, but that's just me.
My EMS is also installed with interlocking 30A plugs, so in the event it should fail, I can remove it, reconnect the plugs and I have power again.
I'm also going to add a second 30A service and run it to a second panel so I can split the loads between the to services. That will run off of a 50A breakout box that I already have built. I also have an addition 20A inlet installed that I use to run space heaters or anything else that I don't want to run off the 30A service, so when completed, I'll have 80A of service.

**JRTJH** · 02-21-2014, 06:54 PM

Bob,

Have you considered converting your power system to 50 amps? I'm seriously considering just taking out the WFCO converter/30amp breaker panel and installing a Progressive 50amp breaker panel/60amp converter. The specs look good, there's a 50 amp main breaker, 12 aux breakers and 18 DC fuse circuits rated up to 20 amps. Of course the usual reverse battery protection fuses, 3 phase "smart charging" etc....

Total cost for the panel is $217 from one source, may find it cheaper somewhere else, I haven't really looked yet.

My thoughts on the conversion is simply to remove/replace the Marinco 30 amp input fitting with a 50 amp fitting, larger romex inside to carry the two legs of A/C, connect the existing trailer wiring as it is on one side of the new breaker panel, add my circuits on the other side and simply reconnect all the DC to the new panel just like it came off the old panel.

The only "extra expense" would be the 50 amp power cord, and since I've already got the 30 amp cord, I plan to use it (lighter weight) unless I do wind up needing a second air conditioner.

I was looking at installing a 20 amp aux breaker panel to run a heater, etc, but saw that a new complete panel isn't that much more than the parts to add the smaller extras....

I know it's do'able, just need to find a warm place and some time to check things out, develop a parts list and get it all ordered. Here's the URL for the panel. http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4560-...l#.UwgO9LCYbIU

What do you think?

**JRTJH** · 02-21-2014, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theasphaltrv'er

How is this idea? ..What if I leave the original inlet receptacle there (pass thru) and cut the cord and put a female plug on the part that comes from the 5er and a male plug on the shore cord or vise versa and plug em together and just push the female plug just back in the inlet door and close the door when not in use or in motion. When both are hooked together it could be just inside the door to keep it from getting wet. You think that would work. Hope I explained it right.

Milo,

I think your idea would work, but there's a couple of things I don't think you've considered (maybe you have)..... First, if you cut off the cord and reinstall a plug on the short end to pull through the mousehole, you'll still have the mousehole. It's an opening for "critters" to get in, isn't really waterproof, so rain can get in, it's a cold air vent in winter and a wasp/spider invitation during summer. Installing the permanent plug eliminates all of that.

second, you're going to have a plug out in the rain that you're going to be plugging and unplugging when it's wet outside. The 3 prong 30 amp plugs aren't really "water proof" nor are they really safe to be 'wrestling" with both hands to unplug if it's wet.

third, Storing your "short plug" inside the mousehole can easily let it slip down inside the RV. If you've ever tried to push your arm through that little "radially slivered hole" you know how much it hurts to get your arm back out. I can see a time when you really get tired of fighting that mousehole with the one buckled/bent plastic tab that won't hold the plug in the right place.

If you've thought about these things, super, but if you haven't I just wanted to bring them to your attention.

Getting the power cable out of the mousehole is the main objective, but creating other hassles may detract from how much you like the results.

theasphaltrv'er · 02-21-2014, 07:11 PM

Paraptor & Bob .. There already is an EMS system installed. I put it in the first of the week, that's when I found out there wasn't enough room for the cord to be pushed in. I took the Jbox out and hardwired the EMS box in it's place. Inserted the shore cord into the imput side and inserted the Romex wire from the TT side into the ouput side of the EMS box & secured it to the floor. I'm going to leave the EMS as it's wired and just cut the shore cord about a foot or foot & half from the EMS box just so it will stick out of the pass thru and ad a male plug. Then add a female plug to the bare end of the shore cord.

Thanks for all the imput
Milo

Bob Landry · 02-21-2014, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Bob,

Have you considered converting your power system to 50 amps? I'm seriously considering just taking out the WFCO converter/30amp breaker panel and installing a Progressive 50amp breaker panel/60amp converter. The specs look good, there's a 50 amp main breaker, 12 aux breakers and 18 DC fuse circuits rated up to 20 amps. Of course the usual reverse battery protection fuses, 3 phase "smart charging" etc....

Total cost for the panel is $217 from one source, may find it cheaper somewhere else, I haven't really looked yet.

My thoughts on the conversion is simply to remove/replace the Marinco 30 amp input fitting with a 50 amp fitting, larger romex inside to carry the two legs of A/C, connect the existing trailer wiring as it is on one side of the new breaker panel, add my circuits on the other side and simply reconnect all the DC to the new panel just like it came off the old panel. Don't forget to price that 50A power cord.

The only "extra expense" would be the 50 amp power cord, and since I've already got the 30 amp cord, I plan to use it (lighter weight) unless I do wind up needing a second air conditioner.

I was looking at installing a 20 amp aux breaker panel to run a heater, etc, but saw that a new complete panel isn't that much more than the parts to add the smaller extras....

I know it's do'able, just need to find a warm place and some time to check things out, develop a parts list and get it all ordered. Here's the URL for the panel. http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4560-...l#.UwgO9LCYbIU

What do you think?

John,
What you are saying will work fine, but you need to carry the math a little further. Price out the 50A inlet. I didn't shop too much, but what I ran across is around $65 for the plastic version, around $160 for the SS one. Add to that the cost of the 50A EMS. You also mentioned that you already have the 30A power cord. Why upgrade to 50A if you are going to limit yourself to 30A? Price the 50A cords. Can we say sticker shock?

In my case, I already have the panel, a Blue Sea with 30A main and six legs, that's out of a Class B that I built a few years back. I also have a second power cord, that only need an end, $20. I also have a PI EMS that I would have to get rid of and get a 50A version. I also already have the breakout box to split the 50A outlet into the two 30s. By only adding a second 30A service to my rig, I only have to buy an inlet, and that's wholesale from my distributor. My plan is to split my loads and leave the inductive loads on the circuit protected by the EMS. In the rare instances where I may not have 50A service, I will be able to parallel the two 30A panes and run off of one 30A outlet, thus putting me back to my original 30A configuration. I did consider converting to 50A, but I have no capability to add a second AC, so it just didn't make sense to me. My cost to add a second 30A service is going to be around $100, reasonable by anyone's standards. As I said, your approach is a sound one, I just think you have not considered some of the additional expenses to pull it off.

Edit: I looked at the 50A panel at Best Converters. It doesn't come with breakers. Add those to the cost of the installation. Circuit breakers from Home Depot won't break the bank, but it is another expense that will have to be factored in.

bluehog · 04-02-2014, 05:35 PM

JRTJH, Thanks for a good idea. I've been having a problem with the Marineco shore power inlet mount (3 screw). The screw at the 1 o'clock position kept pulling loose. Today I removed the plug and saw that the screw's hole was stripped out. It appeared to be from original installation; I found the flat ends of two electrical zip-ties that had been used as shims in the hole. Rather than replacing the entire inlet with a different hole pattern, I was trying to think of something to use as a mounting plate for the original device. Your suggestion of a plastic cutting board is just what I need, but I probably would've wandered around Lowe's for two hours trying to find something. Now I can just stop at the local Wal-Mart! Thanks!

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF700T using Tapatalk

**JRTJH** · 04-02-2014, 05:54 PM

Bluehog,

You're very welcome, Hopefully it will make your reinstall much easier. Don't forget to "rough up" the side of the cutting board that sits next to the camper wall and use DICOR sealant or BUTYL putty tape (not clay tape) to seal it. Once installed with either of those sealants, it won't ever come apart (until you wrestle with it) LOL

Good luck with the project, take pictures and keep us posted. Someone else will need your experience to help them through the mod.

Bob Landry · 04-02-2014, 07:26 PM

I would recommend not using an adhesive that will make the inlet impossible to remove. It's possible for the internal part to burn up from bad contacts, the same as the other end can, and it is easily replaced. I normally do not recommend silicone, but in this case it is the ideal sealant and can be easily refreshed if necessary, I ran a small bead around the outside edge and smoothed it with my fingertip.and a dab in the screw holes. It will seal fine, but will allow easy removal.

XLite28SGS · 04-03-2014, 02:30 AM

What Bob Landry said X2.

Bob Landry · 04-03-2014, 03:49 AM

I forgot to clarify in my post that the mounting surface for the inlets itself is held on with a panhead sheet metal SS screw in each corner, The silicone serves only as a sealant, not an adhesive. The screw holes in the fiberglass are also slightly chamfered to prevent gelcoat cracking around the hole.

Jay Pat · 04-03-2014, 04:03 AM

Another option.
I wipe down the cord with silicon spray.
Cord comes out very easy.
If a "knot" happens, I just twist one way or the other to free it up.
I like to store what is not used in the hole. Instead of laying around to maybe get dirty.
Yes, some of it does collect dirt, just not all of it.
Pat

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