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10-29-2014, 05:36 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 91
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Would you remove this 5er
I bought my f250 two years ago (used). It came with this 5er base rail set up in it. I have a cap on the truck now (mainly for the dog, but for other reasons as well), and I don't 'plan' to change out my TT for a 5th wheel anytime soon, but you never know. I am hovering around my GVWR on the truck when towing and loaded down, so I thought about removing these base rails. It would take roughly 50lbs out of the truck alone. I could then also exchange the three, 3/4" plywood strips (another 20-40lbs???) that I have in there with a simple carpet or thinner sheet good. I started taking bolts off and realized it's quite a few bolts, and they are corroded, and somewhat difficult to get to. There will be 10 holes in the bed when its out, and the bed liner is cut around it.
I'm just looking for any advice on whether to keep it in the truck, take it out and keep for future use, or take it out and sell it if it's worth anthing. I don't see a name on it so I'm not sure what 5er set up it ever works with or if these base rails would even be compatible in 5 years if I need it then.
What would you do??
Thanks!!
__________________
2013 Hideout 29BHS :2013-?
F250xlt, crew, 6.2, short bed, fx4
2009 Rvision Trailcruiser, TC26RKS: 2009-2012
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10-29-2014, 05:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 164
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They look like Reese rails I think new the are about $100 probably not worth your time to remove unless they bother you.
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10-29-2014, 06:04 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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I think one of the biggest "hassles" most fifth wheel owners have is working around the bed rails when the hitch is not in the truck. If you put anything in the bed, the bottom sheet will get scratched by the rails. If you try to load dirt, mulch, etc, it's nearly impossible to clean the bed with the rails in place, but come next spring when the hitch goes back in the truck, all that "pain" goes away.
You won't be using the rails, so even next spring, they will be in your way, so if you're sure you won't be using them, and prefer them out of your bed, then why not remove them. You can buy rubber plugs or metal caps to close the holes in the bed left by the removed bolts.
Whether you remove the frame brackets is also up to you, but leaving them in place and just removing the parts that are "in your way" would make things easier.
As for selling them, new they aren't much more than $100, used, they are probably worth as much at the salvage yard as you'd get trying to sell them. Unless I had a friend that needed them, I wouldn't spend too much time trying to sell them, it just wouldn't bring much money.
Good Luck
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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10-29-2014, 06:41 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 91
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I like your idea on at least taking out the bed rails and getting them out of the way. If I didn't have a utility trailer, or a cap, they'd been long gone. When I first got the truck, I soon realized it was a challenge to slide anything in and out over the rails, so that's where the plywood comes in to give me the flush surface, but they are still in they way and just collect lots of debris.
I am due for a scrap yard run, so unless I come up with a good use for them, they will be beer money.
Thanks for the input.
__________________
2013 Hideout 29BHS :2013-?
F250xlt, crew, 6.2, short bed, fx4
2009 Rvision Trailcruiser, TC26RKS: 2009-2012
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10-29-2014, 08:49 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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Well, if it were me...
I'd remove them and Rhino Line the bed. If I needed the rails at a later date I would install them with new hardware.
...if it were me.
__________________
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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10-30-2014, 04:10 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 91
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A sliced up bed liner like I have is not much use. I had a Rhino in my old truck and loved it. Truck is a long term investment for us, so it may be worth spending the money.
__________________
2013 Hideout 29BHS :2013-?
F250xlt, crew, 6.2, short bed, fx4
2009 Rvision Trailcruiser, TC26RKS: 2009-2012
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10-30-2014, 05:26 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: colorado
Posts: 209
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I would scrap them, BOWWOW gets bored and hates clutter!
I don't work all day, but all day I work.
__________________
2007.5 Silverado 3500 HD,DRW, LTZ red, afe II airbox w/ torque tube, transferflow 56 gal replacement tank,
banks speed brake, transgo jr shiftkit, aux trans cooler, b&w companion hitch.
2010 Fuzion FZ 302 has 12ply F-loads, Dexter ez-flex w/ wet bolts, 6 volt Deka GC 15 batteries, 1 gen battery, solarpanels, leds inside, replaced clear textured door glass with tinted, 87 gallons of loc-tite.
Decals removed.
AKA CONFUZION / PORH HONKY.
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10-30-2014, 06:34 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 441
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My truck had rails when I bought it. I had them removed. They needed torched out because the bolts were not easily accessed and were seized. I'm guessing that may be one reason folks leave them, a pain to remove. I just kept the rails if I need a piece of steel for something later.
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2007 Silverado 2500HD 4X4
2013 Springdale 303BHSSR
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10-30-2014, 01:35 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Spicewood Tx
Posts: 199
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This is exactly why i run a goose neck setup. I also have a pop up ball that descends completely below the bed when i pull a lever. It's makes my long bed completely useable. You may want to consider this option if you ever change to a 5er..
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10-30-2014, 04:43 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arrey,
Posts: 2,368
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greengiant, Howdy;
Don't forget, you'll need to treat the holes that are left after you take it out.
Without treatment you'll have more corrosion starting and eating out the frame
and bed a shortening the life of your truck real quick.
hankaye
__________________
Striving for a less complicated life since 1949 ...
Home: 2008 Cougar 278 RKS
T.V.: 2004 F-250 4X4, Level III BulletProofed , Detroit Tru-Track Differential (915A550)
Dog: 2006 Border Collie (Rascal) aka Maximum fur dispersal unit. (08/04/2006 - 12/16/2017) RIP.
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10-30-2014, 05:29 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Hickory Taver SC
Posts: 381
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I ditched mine in the 250 for a B&W turnover ball. Stayed with the B&W for the 350 and got the companion for the 5er.
Haven't regretted it yet!
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10-30-2014, 11:06 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Belvidere, IL
Posts: 36
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My 06 Silverado came with rails also I removed them before linex was installed. Box looks like new. Can be a difficult to get to the bolts out but worth it.
__________________
2012 Laredo 294RKS
2006 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax Crew Cab LB
Equal-I-Zer 14K
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10-31-2014, 09:58 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 91
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Thank you for everyone's input. I will certainly be taking at least the rails out and treating the holes, as living in NY tends to be conducive to rust development.
__________________
2013 Hideout 29BHS :2013-?
F250xlt, crew, 6.2, short bed, fx4
2009 Rvision Trailcruiser, TC26RKS: 2009-2012
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11-19-2014, 07:18 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 91
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Just want to let you all know I got the rails out, wire brushed, treated, and primed the holes. I put them on craigslist just to see what would happen before they made it to the scrap yard. Sold them for $50 today.
Thanks for the advice everyone.
__________________
2013 Hideout 29BHS :2013-?
F250xlt, crew, 6.2, short bed, fx4
2009 Rvision Trailcruiser, TC26RKS: 2009-2012
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