Propane to electric

Tammy1959 · 11-13-2017, 09:54 AM

Is there a way to change your propane furnace over to electric? Without having to replace the entire unit? I have heard there is a conversion kit you can buy???

notanlines · 11-13-2017, 10:55 AM

http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/#
Here is an example of your target product. Looks to be about $750 or so total and you DIY.

Tammy1959 · 11-13-2017, 11:17 AM

Thank you. I know someone that has a toyhauler (i forget the make) he said he put a 100.00 element in his to convert but i have seen nothing like that.

travelin texans · 11-13-2017, 11:42 AM

Is there a problem with your gas furnace or are you not paying for electricity? I know they are huge propane hogs so I wonder if it would a lot of electricity also.
I think it would be much less costly to just plug in a couple electric heaters. Also most rvs have a duct that dumps into the underbelly to help somewhat with keeping water lines & tanks warm.

Tammy1959 · 11-13-2017, 12:05 PM

Propane is costly plus it is just me and hard to lift full tanks back into place. I will probably just have to use heaters. If i can keep breakers from flipping. Thanks for your input.

**chuckster57** · 11-13-2017, 01:11 PM

If your going to use space heaters, I can recommend the oil filled radiator type. I use them because we bring pets and sometimes grandkids.

I may be wrong, but they seem to use less power, and the cords don’t get hot. Ceramic ribbon types are supposed to have a “tip over” feature but I’m not really trying to test it.

notanlines · 11-13-2017, 01:21 PM

Tammy, "If i can keep breakers from flipping" if this is the way you plan to proceed, run a designated HEAVY cord to the 50 amp service at your pedestal and it won't affect your RV. Just work out a handy way to run the cord inside, plug a couple heaters (oil filled are great) and go from there.

mfifield01 · 11-13-2017, 02:04 PM

I'm using a Vornado heater, which was recommended on this forum. I have dogs and kids, so I didn't want the front to be hot. It works really well in my TT.

I'm only running one. If I needed a second, I would run it off of a separate dedicated circuit. I only have 30amp service, I feel that two would be unsafe.

instymp · 11-13-2017, 02:50 PM

" Also most rvs have a duct that dumps into the underbelly to help somewhat with keeping water lines & tanks warm."
And from freezing also I believe.

Tammy1959 · 11-13-2017, 03:03 PM

Thanks everyone!! Greatly appreciate. Thus will be my first time living full time in this 5th wheel. I love this forum.

Johnny's Journey · 11-13-2017, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tammy1959

Thank you. I know someone that has a toyhauler (i forget the make) he said he put a 100.00 element in his to convert but i have seen nothing like that.

Think clothing dryer. But I wouldn't do it or should I say. There's more to it than you think. Wiring, limit switches both hi and low and the knowledge to make it all work safely with out over heating yourself with a fire for there is no thermostat that will turn that off.

rhagfo · 11-13-2017, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/#
Here is an example of your target product. Looks to be about $750 or so total and you DIY.

I have this system installed in our 32’ Copper Canyon and love it. Steady t-stat controlled heat through the 5er.
I installed so that I could switch from 50 amp to 30 amp feed if necessary, when on a 30 amp service you have a 1,800 watt element doing the heating. On 50 amp I have a 5,000 watt element heating and we stay warm easily in the teens outside.
This is a complet kit that a dyi that has a decent understanding of electricity can install.
They now offer a device to automatically switch demand automatically depending on if you have a 30 amp feed or 50 amp feed, I am considering for the $129 price.

Hodgy · 11-13-2017, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If your going to use space heaters, I can recommend the oil filled radiator type. I use them because we bring pets and sometimes grandkids.

I may be wrong, but they seem to use less power, and the cords don’t get hot. Ceramic ribbon types are supposed to have a “tip over” feature but I’m not really trying to test it.

I second chuckster57, the oil filled take a while longer to warm up but they don't have a fan, provide even radiant heat, the three I have have 3 heat settings, are thermostatically controlled and have a 24 hour timer.

Here is the one I have, got them cheaper at Costco.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-DeLonghi...4AAOSwWKtUyCE0

Even with your restricted power I think you could probably use three of them on the low setting and spread them around your 5ver and keep the whole rig warm.

IMO, leave the propane furnace alone.

Welcome to the forum, there is a wealth of knowledge here.

Already found it cheaper on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/DeLonghi-TRH0...Radiant+Heater

.

Tammy1959 · 11-13-2017, 04:17 PM

I have 50amp in my cougar. My grandaughters husband is an electrician.

Tammy1959 · 11-13-2017, 04:20 PM

I will check them out at our costco

spicercars · 11-13-2017, 04:29 PM

We use a 1500w Infrared Heater that keeps the whole rv warm and never trips any breakers. Never leave home without it.

rhagfo · 11-13-2017, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tammy1959

I have 50amp in my cougar. My grandaughters husband is an electrician.

The great thing about Cheap Heat is it runs on all new correctly sized and connected wiring! No cheap RV 15 amp outlets. Adds only 6” to the length of the furnace. You can switch back to gas a the flick of a switch.

Tinner12002 · 11-14-2017, 03:13 AM

If you choose to use the electric heaters, you also may need to run just the fan on your furnace to circulate air through the ducts to help keep water lines or tanks that are under your rv from freezing, plus will help distribute warm air completely through the rv.

**chuckster57** · 11-14-2017, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinner12002

If you choose to use the electric heaters, you also may need to run just the fan on your furnace to circulate air through the ducts to help keep water lines or tanks that are under your rv from freezing, plus will help distribute warm air completely through the rv.

There isn’t any “fan” settings on the thermostat for the furnace. If you turn off the propane so the furnace burner doesn’t come on the fan will only run for a short time, and you won’t have LP for any other appliance.

rhagfo · 11-14-2017, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/#
Here is an example of your target product. Looks to be about $750 or so total and you DIY.

The base unit sells for $587 on the web site and the auto switch over is $119 for a total of $706 for the kit, I spent about another $150 for a 30 amp 240 volt circuit breaker box 30 amp breaker, and necessary wire.

The kit is well made, the add on Plenum is heavy gauge sheet metal and well constructed. It is far better built than the existing furnace housing.

Is it worth the cost, well I really don't have spare floor space for three of the oil filled heaters, that at about $100 o $125 each are at least half the cost of the Cheap Heat system.
I feel that other plug in electric heaters are a safety issue, both from a draw on the outlets, and hot surface issues.

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