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06-02-2015, 06:05 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern U.P. of Michigan
Posts: 237
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Calculating level
After reading Cris426 post on "Leveling on slope question", it got me thinking. Has anyone ever figured out how far to lower the front landing jacks INITIALLY before unhooking from the TV so that there is enough travel to level the camper?
Not sure if that makes sense. Let me give you a real life example. Shortly after taking delivery of our land yacht, we went to a campground that we liked. We picked out the site online. When we arrived and finally got on site after much jockeying around, (funny how that big tree and big bush wasn't in the pic) we were on quite an decline. Front to back. I guessed on how far to lower the front mechanical portion of the landing jacks before unhooking. While leveling, the front electric portion of the landing jack retracted all the way BARELY leveling the rig.
I could have raised the mechanical 1 notch and things would have been better, but that would have entailed rehooking back up.
Ideas?
__________________
A rainy day campin' is better than a sunny day workin'.
'14 Montana High Country 305RL - Reese Goose Box - Morryde HD shackles & wet bolts - JoyRider shocks - JT StrongArms - Torklift steps - Correct Track - Progressive EMS-HW50C - Clear Source water filter - On The Go water softener
'21 Ram 3500 w/6.7 Cummins - Sinister Diesel oil bypass
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06-02-2015, 06:25 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,349
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It's simple once you've done it for years
I always look at the space and where the front will need to end up to be level. Then I extend the top portion of the landing gear enough to allow plenty of movement once unhooked.
If I know the front will have to come down, I extend the top portion quite a ways out leaving little bottom. If the front is going to have to go up, then I do the opposite, lowering and pinning the bottom portion just about fully extended giving me lots of travel up with the top portion.
Practice, practice practice.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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06-02-2015, 07:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Green Valley, AZ
Posts: 782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
It's simple once you've done it for years
I always look at the space and where the front will need to end up to be level. Then I extend the top portion of the landing gear enough to allow plenty of movement once unhooked.
If I know the front will have to come down, I extend the top portion quite a ways out leaving little bottom. If the front is going to have to go up, then I do the opposite, lowering and pinning the bottom portion just about fully extended giving me lots of travel up with the top portion.
Practice, practice practice.
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x2- after years and years with a fiver. It get's to be second nature after awhile-- but that is after awhile!
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Earl
2007 33.5' Arctic Fox Fifth Wheel used for full-timing for several years--now sold
2011 Hideout 23RKSWE that we now use for poking around local parks
2007 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel with Prodigy Brake Control
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06-03-2015, 04:06 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Haymarket, VA
Posts: 382
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Don't know as you need years of experience, but you do need to think it all through carefully if not. Two examples:
At home, our Monty has to have the front raised considerably to be level. Before unhooking, I always let the legs drop all the way to the ground and then let the motors lower the driven part until they lock to raise the trailer. Doesn't leave me much slack when hooking back up again, but this works for me.
Last campground we had the opposite problem. To get level, I had to lower the front considerably. I only let the legs down a few holes (leaving about five or six inches clearance under the feet) and then used the motors to lift it off our truck. After unhooking, I lowered the Monty to level.
What helps you figure out how this will work is a pair of stick on small levels on each side near the front. They're available at most RV service stores, Amazon and other places. If you place them carefully so they read level when your 5er is level, you can get a better idea of what your starting point is.
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'06 F350 Lariat turbo diesel dually, Curt 20k, Softopper, Aerosheld, coolant filter, air bags
'10 3665RE Hickory, wet bolts, Trimetric battery monitor, 4 100w panels & Morningstar TS-45, still tweeking!
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06-03-2015, 05:56 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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^^^That seems to work best for me.^^^
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Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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06-03-2015, 05:17 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Liberty, Texas
Posts: 5,034
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Look at the site real well and determine if the nose will need to go up or down. Even if a bad thunderstorm is moving in on you, don't get in a hurry and push the level now button with the truck still under it. Whoa baby, the front gear went DOWN!! A LOT!
Minimal damage to piece of trim on the overhang, and no truck damage! No $ estimate yet.
I usually drop the legs with 4-6 holes showing.
Good to see you back on here whitewolf.
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2018 Ram 3500 Laramie CC DRW LWB 4X4 Cummins Aisin 3.73
Reese Goosebox 20K
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4 LB Cabover
2023 CanAm Defender SXS
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06-05-2015, 03:35 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Preble county, Ohio
Posts: 261
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I hate to admit it but I just did this very thing. I dropped the front legs too much and did not have enough travel to get the camper level. Only way to fix it was to rehook and I was not going to be there that log so we were just crooked for a couple of days.
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2008 Silverado 3500HD 4x4 SRW Duramax Allison trans
2014 Cougar 327 RES "Campy"
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06-05-2015, 05:19 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern U.P. of Michigan
Posts: 237
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So...apparently I'm not the only member of the club. Thanks for all the advice everyone.
Gearhead - after much soul searching, yes.
__________________
A rainy day campin' is better than a sunny day workin'.
'14 Montana High Country 305RL - Reese Goose Box - Morryde HD shackles & wet bolts - JoyRider shocks - JT StrongArms - Torklift steps - Correct Track - Progressive EMS-HW50C - Clear Source water filter - On The Go water softener
'21 Ram 3500 w/6.7 Cummins - Sinister Diesel oil bypass
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06-07-2015, 05:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Golden Co
Posts: 367
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With a little Trig you could calculate it 😈, I just eye ball it.
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Mark S.
2014 Cougar 318SAB
2015 Silverado 3500HD 6.6L Diesel 4WD CC SB
18K Pullright Hitch
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06-07-2015, 11:16 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,457
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Sometimes you got to do what you got to do...
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2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
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06-07-2015, 11:24 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern U.P. of Michigan
Posts: 237
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__________________
A rainy day campin' is better than a sunny day workin'.
'14 Montana High Country 305RL - Reese Goose Box - Morryde HD shackles & wet bolts - JoyRider shocks - JT StrongArms - Torklift steps - Correct Track - Progressive EMS-HW50C - Clear Source water filter - On The Go water softener
'21 Ram 3500 w/6.7 Cummins - Sinister Diesel oil bypass
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