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Old 05-12-2015, 01:08 PM   #1
kiwi2000
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new season new bunch of questions

I wonder what type of maintenance is required on my a/c unit?
Is there a filter somewhere I could clean or replace?

Our screen door sticks on the bottom can it be adjusted in some way?

I have always used one side of the propane tanks and it just hit me maybe the gas has a shelf life? One side has never been cracked open so I suppose I will run it this season. I read the manual and it seems changing over tanks can be a bit of an issue. Any tips for the change over? Will the propane go bad if not used in an amount of time?

I am getting estimates to polish the trailer and they are all over the map. That is not a question just a comment.
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:57 PM   #2
sourdough
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I am not aware of any prescribed mtce for the ac except cleaning the filter (mine's located under the drop down grate on the main unit) and keeping debris out of the unit on the roof.

I've never had to adjust the screen door although it was sticking once. Turned out my trailer had settled and the door was a bit twisted. Re-stabilized and it was OK.

I turn both my propane tanks on and just monitor the gauge on the changeover valve occasionally. When the tank it's pointing at turns red I fill it, turn the arrow to the full tank and repeat.

If you don't want to spend a lot polishing the trailer you might try applying 303 protectant yourself and save some money. It goes on easy and iit's not too hard - but it does take some time.
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Old 05-12-2015, 02:04 PM   #3
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Hi Kiwi2000,
Welcome to the new camping season! We did our first trip this past weekend to Vermont.

Depending on your set-up, your filters are probably in the a/c itself. There should be an access door built right in to the faceplate on the inside ceiling. No need to go onto the roof unless your condensers are clogged. In 40+ years of camping that's never been a problem. Just take down the inside filters, and give them a good vacuuming. Some are marked "This side up".

Propane does not have a shelf life that I'm aware of. I usually only open one bottle at a time too. That way I know when a bottle is empty. I just switch tanks, and refill the empty. I suggest that when opening the valve, turn it slowly part way, then open the rest of the way. I have found this to be a cure for freeze-up of the regulator.

As far as polishing the camper.... be careful! One idiot with a power buffer can do a world of hurt on trim, and decals! Most of the time, a good quality wash and wax combo bath is sufficient, followed by Black Streak Remover for the tough spots.

Have a good season!
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Old 05-12-2015, 02:16 PM   #4
kiwi2000
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Hey thanks for the replys.

Quote:
As far as polishing the camper.... be careful! One idiot with a power buffer can do a world of hurt on trim,
Yes that is worrisome.

So the a/c filter is inside the trailer? Ah I will have a look and then give it a wash.

Quote:
I've never had to adjust the screen door although it was sticking once. Turned out my trailer had settled and the door was a bit twisted. Re-stabilized and it was OK
The screen door sticks whether the landing gear is up or down.

Quote:
I turn both my propane tanks on and just monitor the gauge on the changeover valve occasionally. When the tank it's pointing at turns red I fill it, turn the arrow to the full tank and repeat.
Maybe I will try that this season.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:16 PM   #5
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Look at where the door is attached to see if there is an adjustment that can be made. Could be the screwed in in a little off center. I usually clean my trailer, never hire anyone to do it. You know about the AC now and your propane will be fine. Have a good year.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:14 PM   #6
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The sure way to make sure someone does not damage your trailer when detailing, ask them what type of buffer they use, rotary or dual action (DA). If they use a dual action, it's nearly impossible to damage the paint. A rotary can build up enough heat in one spot to burn the paint and decals. Rotarys are used for severe scratch and oxidation removal. I doubt many people would have a need for a rotary on most RVs. Most people who do use them are typically skilled with them, but if you are worried and want to be safe just make sure they use a DA
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Old 05-13-2015, 04:41 AM   #7
kiwi2000
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Quote:
If you don't want to spend a lot polishing the trailer you might try applying 303 protectant yourself and save some money. It goes on easy and iit's not too hard - but it does take some time.
Lets just say I get it polished now I want to maintain the finish.
How do you apply the product on your trailer?
Is it a two or three step process?
Wash first of course but then what, apply with what type of instrument, cloth sponge,..?
Then buff or?
How do you get to the higher areas I think a step ladder would be a pain in the feet very quickly.

Quote:
As far as polishing the camper.... be careful! One idiot with a power buffer can do a world of hurt on trim, and decals! Most of the time, a good quality wash and wax combo bath is sufficient, followed by Black Streak Remover for the tough spots.
I have been diligently using a wash and wax combo and incorporating black streak remover but it appears I have lost the battle.
Its been 4 years now so I suppose a professional polish is not that out of line. The owners manual states to polish twice a year!
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:02 AM   #8
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Wash and wax is a good maintenance practice for between wax/polish. The wax that is in a wash and wax formula does not adhere to a surface well, but it will bond to existing wax that is on the trailer to help it last longer. A true carnauba wax typically only lasts about 3 months, by using a regular wash and wax you MAY be able to extend it a month or two or three.
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Old 05-13-2015, 08:35 AM   #9
sourdough
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I apply the 303 with a microfiber cloth and remove it with a microfiber towel. I work the top and my wife works the lower level. I do have to use a ladder to get to the roof line. The trailer is one year old and the sides are like new so it goes on easily. The 303 likes to leave a film so getting it completely off takes a bit of rubbing on a slick, new surface. I wear boots on the ladder and it doesn't bother me. Climbing up and down a thousand times with a damaged replacement knee is somewhat irritating. The front cap height is an issue and takes a bit of maneuvering on the ladder BUT one poster just pointed out a great idea; drop then nose to the pavement (or as low as it will go I guess) to make it easier. I will do that the next time.
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:07 AM   #10
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Sourdough,

Another way to access the top of the front cap is to hitch the trailer (or back your truck under the front end, lay a couple of 2x?? across the bed rails and stand on that. I've got a couple of 2x12's that I lay across the bed rails, that puts me easily able to get to any part of the front cap without a ladder and while standing on a 23" wide "platform"...... The only thing you have to be careful of is leaning too far over the trailer and the lumber slipping. I use a couple of C clamps to secure it to the truck rails.
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:51 AM   #11
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Thanks John. I like that idea. I'm going to give it a whirl when I get back.
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Old 05-16-2015, 10:19 AM   #12
kiwi2000
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Thanks for all the input on your application process for the 303 product. I will try it on an area.
I just got the trailer back from the polish shop and am happy to report no issues.
It looks almost like new again!

Yes I agree applying a wash and wax product is no substitute for a hand wax application.The shop made my rig 100% cleaner and shiny but about 60-70% uniformity.They said after the next application the uniformity would be almost 100%.

In the meantime I will try some of the suggestions made to see if I can even out the paint uniformity. You get what you pay for and if I would have paid the top of the scale price I suppose I would have received 100% uniformity. As it stands I can get the trailer done professionally every year for the next 4 years for the same cost of the highest estimate. So I think thats a good trade off.

On a totally different topic I asked earlier about "chucking" and how to reduce it when travelling. Various suggestions were put forward on this forum about different products etc.
I asked Reese to weigh in and they said to remove my slider hitch and give that a try. We never use the slider so I did and installed regular rails or whatever they are called.
Big, big difference in the ride although our first big trip is not for a couple of weeks yet this change has promise. So if anyone is having this same issue try the regular hitch option before you go all exotic on a solution.
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