Stop TT from sinking in dirt over the summer

[cvin]

In southern AZ i dont really have any problems with this, the ground is mostly hard

But have been concerned this summer being on the softer soil in northern az
My concern is not the tires because i change them every 2.5 -3 years anyway but that the trailer is getting out of level over 6 months of rain etc and this is not good for it

I did have jack supports under each one but it made no difference they deformed under the weight and the soft ground

Thinking some large sections of thick plywood under each jack and the tires?

Suggestions for how others deal with this would be great

[flybouy]

Without knowing what type of "soft soil" you're referencing (shifting sand, soft clay,etc.) the obvious solution is less lbs./sq. ft. of force on each contact point. The "jacks" your referencing, are they the stabilizers or some other type of jack that you have added?

If you use plywood as cribbing you would have to either use very thick plywood to keep it from bending or reinforce it to keep it from flexing which would defeat the purpose. Marine grade plywood would be a must for water repellency and that's an expensive plywood. I've used 2" x 12" pressure treated lumber cut in 18" length before and have had good results.

[chuckster57]

You don’t need anything under the tires. You can increase the “foot print” of each jack to help. As I remember you have scissors jacks on the corners. You might get positive results using additional screw jacks on large pads along the frame.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by cvin

In southern AZ i dont really have any problems with this, the ground is mostly hard

But have been concerned this summer being on the softer soil in northern az
My concern is not the tires because i change them every 2.5 -3 years anyway but that the trailer is getting out of level over 6 months of rain etc and this is not good for it

I did have jack supports under each one but it made no difference they deformed under the weight and the soft ground

Thinking some large sections of thick plywood under each jack and the tires?

Suggestions for how others deal with this would be great

If I read what you've posted "literally", it sounds like you've damaged the 4 stabilizers on your trailer while trying to use them as leveling jacks AND
you're asking about a "permanent" solution for an "immobile" trailer (over 6 months set up in one place)...

First, any trailer that's set up on "unprepared soft earth with conventional jacks/stabilizers/tires" is going to shift and get out of level over a 6 month time frame. Just the slight movement of people walking inside the trailer will cause the "footprint points" to grind into the earth and settle. That's partly why all buildings are constructed on piers that are in contact with bedrock or on multiple pilings that are driven into the ground to compact the soil (making it denser so it won't "settle as rapidly").

In south Louisiana, until recently, the preferred method of building a foundation was the "post/pier" system. The advantage to that type building is the ease with which the structure can be "re-leveled" as it sinks... Build several "piers set on large, solid points and build on top of them. As the building's weight pushes the piers into the ground, jack the building and add shims to the top of the piers, keeping the building level".... Easy to do....

Your RV is "built" along those same lines. The tires and leveling jacks are your piers... As it sinks into the earth, rather than raise the structure and insert shims, you simply extend the jack....

I don't know of anyone who has an RV, set up on dirt, that doesn't have to re-level occasionally. Most delay that requirement by installing multiple wooden blocks or concrete (cinder) blocks along the frame rails of the trailer to make a "semi-permanent foundation" and only have to level every couple of years (or so)... Those that rely on the "OEM system of tires and stabilizer jacks" usually are "re-leveling every couple of weeks"....

If you want more "permanence" you'll need to construct a more solid foundation. A couple of rows of cinder blocks tied together to form a solid foundation, a concrete slab, a wooden structure (strong enough to support the weight and permanent enough to resist the rot) or a compacted stone bed that resists being pushed into the softer earth below it....

I don't see how you're going to avoid re-leveling if using the "8 point" system of 4 tires and 4 stabilizer jacks on soft earth......

[sourdough]

We stay in one place in FL for 5 months at a time. We are on what is like packed beach sand so not like the AZ soil I'm sure. It does rain a considerable amount here (like today) and the soil does "move" some.

The first year we used the yellow lego blocks under the stabilizers and the tires (to level) and had to readjust once. The next year I used 2x12s under the stabilizers hoping for better results but it was the same so we went back to the lego blocks because they are easier to use and transport (still carry the wood blocks for other issues if needed).

To "readjust" initially with the lego blocks under the tires was a little more complicated because of the set levels you had when using the "blocks". Now, with the Andersen Levelers it's a snap. At first, with the lego blocks, I would wait until the bubble was outside the line a bit before trying to go through releveling. With the Andersen Levelers, and the new LevelMate Pro, I'm going to wait until it shows 1/2" off and then relevel. With the Andersen's infinite adjustment due to it's design I just pull up the stabilizers, drop it on the hitch, set it level then redeploy chocks and stabilizers. I do use the Bal X Chocks between the tires to minimize "bounce" from the tires which I think increases the amount of soil movement due to it.