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Old 05-06-2015, 01:35 PM   #61
wolfee240
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Not sure if it matters if it is on gas or electric. The issue i was having is when it was sitting at home. It didnt matter if it was on gas or electric, i tried both. If the camper was not perfectly level it would not cool at home. It would cool fine at the campground because we had the camper leveled up. I left it on gas when going down the road and it would cool just fine. I was getting fustrated trying to figure it out. The dealer said they have not heard of that problem before. I am not sure if it is venting defect in the camper in that it has to be level for the heat to escape from the back of the fridge. It is not a big deal. i just have to level it when i get home from camping.
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:40 PM   #62
Festus2
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It shouldn't matter whether the fridge is on propane or AC regarding its being "out of level" and not working. As with any absorption-type fridge it should be "reasonably level". If it isn't, the liquid ammonia will accumulate in sections of the evaporator tubing. This accumulation causes a slowdown of the hydrogen and ammonia gases moving through the system resulting in a possible loss of cooling or, if severe, a complete shutdown. It really doesn't matter how these sections are being heated - by gas or by electricity. And, as you rightly pointed out, being out-of-level effects either system equally.

If, when parked on your driveway, there is a noticeable sloping of the floor or walls and it would be uncomfortable to live in, then my guess is that it is too far out-of-level for the fridge to operate as it should.
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:08 PM   #63
campertime
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yikes! getting ready for our camping trip and we have no fridge

Trailer is level, battery fully charged, lp tanks are full. I even tried plugging it in hopes that AC power would get it going.

The issue is: we turn it on, and all the lights stay on; check, auto, gas and ac. Went through owners manual to troubleshoot still no fridge. Checked breakers, fuses, reset the high limit thermal switch, took the black cover off the back of fridge and checked fuses there.... all looks okay.

Guess we are using coolers this week and will have to take the trailer in for service after our vacation. trailer is almost 1 year old and this will only be our 4th trip in it. It worked fine on all our other trips. Guess it was only a matter of time
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Old 07-10-2015, 11:47 AM   #64
campertime
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Dealer bound in the morning. I'll let you all know what they find.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:45 PM   #65
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Please keep updated. Had ours over a year and over 10 trips using both gas and electric with no issues so far, but nice to know what to look for if issues arise. Good luck!
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:37 AM   #66
campertime
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Service writer added another clue to the write up.... My interier fridge light does not come on. He said that may be the clue as to wether it's a bad circuit board or not. Should hear back from them within the next few days.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:16 PM   #67
Bowhunter
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Thanks for update.
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:52 AM   #68
campertime
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Well... it turns out that it wasn't the circuit board.... it was a 12V fuse on the circuit board. They replaced the fuse and said the fridge is functioning as designed.

I've attached a picture of the location of the circuit board. It's located behind the black plastic cover on the rear of the fridge. Remove two screws and the cover comes off allowing you access to it. There is a wire running through a grommet in the cover that goes onto a blade style connector. It will come off with the cover, but it is much easier to reconnect if you pull it out of the cover, screw the cover on, then plug the wire in.
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:56 PM   #69
Ryan 747
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Atwood fridge

I found that a 3amp fuse located in the rear of the trailer in the fridge circuit board was the problem with the Ac power not working. I checked everything so I decided to take the cover off the circuit board and there it was. Hope this helps anyone out there with a fridge AC power problem . I was all set to take it to a local RV shop
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Old 10-03-2017, 04:57 PM   #70
Ryan 747
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[QUOTE=Ryan 747;258661]I found that a 3amp fuse located in the rear of the trailer in the fridge circuit board was the problem with the Ac power not working. I checked everything so I decided to take the cover off the circuit board and there it was. Hope this helps anyone out there with a fridge AC power problem . I was all set to take it to a local RV shop. I know it would of cost 3 hours to diagnose and 300 dollars at least
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:23 AM   #71
catfishmike
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I was having the same problem as this thread describes and it was the 3 amp fuse causing it. Glad to see these forums can really help.
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:18 AM   #72
pzamora
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atwood refrigerators are complete junk. I have a 2015 Hideout and the refridgerator went out after 16 months or after 4 uses. I got it late 2015 and here we winterize and store our trailers for about 9 months out of the year. On my 4th or so use, it would not switch to AC and run only on propane. I took it into the Dealer (Big Country RV) with a terrible service dept, and it took 6 weeks to get it in. Once I did get it in their report said the circuit board and AC heating element went out and charged me $60 for that stupid report. I already knew that. Then the fix would be $1000. Since they had it so long it went out of warranty and would not fix it. I contacted Atwood and they only said too bad, it's out of warranty. I then went back to the sales man and the Service Dept and they both literally laughed at me and said, oh you got the Atwood. Those are known to be junk; and too bad. Want a new trailer? They new the Atwood Helium Series were all junk and they said it wasn't their problem. So now I have a travel trailer with a propane sucking fridge. We are selling this Keystone Hideout and going with another brand with no Atwood appliances. Dometic all the way. Our last old camper and trailer both had dometic and they were rock solid. Atwood your products and service are not worth the trouble. Sorry if you're in the same boat.
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Old 03-20-2022, 05:04 PM   #73
FJnewRVer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catfishmike View Post
I was having the same problem as this thread describes and it was the 3 amp fuse causing it. Glad to see these forums can really help.
I had the same problem and the fix was also the 3 amp fuse. I put a 5 amp fuse in. There are three different 3 amp fuses located in a small black box. I’m just happy I got it working. I thought I was going to have to go and purchase a new fridge. I told my wife that I am going to pay myself $300 for this fix even though the fuses costed $5.
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Old 03-20-2022, 05:22 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJnewRVer View Post
I had the same problem and the fix was also the 3 amp fuse. I put a 5 amp fuse in. There are three different 3 amp fuses located in a small black box. I’m just happy I got it working. I thought I was going to have to go and purchase a new fridge. I told my wife that I am going to pay myself $300 for this fix even though the fuses costed $5.
Hate to say it, but you haven’t “fixed” the problem. Putting in a fuse that is rated higher than what is supposed to be in may cause a more serious problem. Keep your money because you may need it for a much more expensive repair/replacement.
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Old 03-20-2022, 08:00 PM   #75
FJnewRVer
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Hate to say it, but you haven’t “fixed” the problem. Putting in a fuse that is rated higher than what is supposed to be in may cause a more serious problem. Keep your money because you may need it for a much more expensive repair/replacement.
I’ll just change it out tomorrow. It’s easy to do. I’m just glad it’s working tonight.
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Old 03-21-2022, 07:00 AM   #76
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Our Atwood He fridge died last year. It would percolate and the freezer would only get fridge cold. Iread this was a coolant leak issue so nothing could be done. (No replacement units or repairs near me). I ended up replacing it with a new Norcold. I can tell you that the Atwood construction was WAY better, stronger, better materials. All moot if it doesn't run. Our new Flimsy Norcold works great but gives random beeps and won't indicate why. The factory was no help.

Maybe someone can answer this- The only sign of a leak I found was at the factory service "port". Right where it was crimped and welded was a BB sized chunk of white crust- not yellow. When I demo'd the fridge I cut it apart and it still had plenty of ammonia and all of the yellow chromate. I can only assume that the helium leaked out and this was the issue.

BTW I have the whole Atwood gas train and all the control boards if anyone needs them cheap.
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Old 07-27-2023, 04:30 AM   #77
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Mine did the same and it was a fuse on the outside
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Old 07-27-2023, 04:46 AM   #78
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That is it!
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