Running Lights Issue

jmlocklin · 02-28-2018, 08:00 PM

I had a fuse blow on my truck that caused the running lights to go out. I replaced the fuse and thought all would be well, but when I hooked up the trailer the running lights did not work. I took the truck, a 2016 F-150, in to have it checked but decided to trade it in while at the dealership. So I now have a 2017 F-250, but before I plug it up I would like to check the wiring to see if the trailer is the issue. How do I test the running lights on the trailer without connecting it to the truck? Is there a fuse on the trailer that I need to check that may have blown at the same time? Trailer is a Keystone Sprinter 29BH. Any help will be appreciated.

B-O-B'03 · 02-28-2018, 08:08 PM

get a fuse holder and jumper the pins on your harness for charge line (pin 4) + which ever lights you are trying to test.

trailer plug diagrams

you must have a charged battery in your trailer and the battery disconnect, if you have one, should be on.

-Brian

jmlocklin · 02-28-2018, 08:36 PM

I have two batteries on the trailer, but have no idea about a battery disconnect. I have watched videos about using the jumper, but they do not show how to hook the battery to the trailer to get power. I must be missing something.

Hodgy · 02-28-2018, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlocklin

I had a fuse blow on my truck that caused the running lights to go out. I replaced the fuse and thought all would be well, but when I hooked up the trailer the running lights did not work. I took the truck, a 2016 F-150, in to have it checked but decided to trade it in while at the dealership. So I now have a 2017 F-250.

I am having trouble understanding the concept of a blown fuse and coming away with a different truck. There has to be more to the story.

.

B-O-B'03 · 03-01-2018, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlocklin

I have two batteries on the trailer, but have no idea about a battery disconnect. I have watched videos about using the jumper, but they do not show how to hook the battery to the trailer to get power. I must be missing something.

Some campers come with a battery disconnect to kill the battery power to the camper, yours may or may not have one.

Pin 4 of your umbilical should be connected to the batteries of your trailer, so your truck can charge them while connected and driving down the highway.

That means pin 4 is hot and when you connect it to the other pins of the umbilical, the running lights, left turn signal, right turn signal, etc will be powered up with power from the trailer batteries.

Connecting pins 3 & 4 together, on the umbilical cable, should turn on the running lights of the camper.

Use an in-line fuse holder, similar to this to connect the pins together, I would think a 10 amp fuse would be plenty big enough... if it blows the fuse, you have a problem to go find.

-Brian

Tinner12002 · 03-01-2018, 03:15 AM

Here's the wiring diagram for your 5th wheel, truck side looking into the plugin, camper side looking at the end of the plug that goes in the truck socket. Basically if you have power in your RV you jump the 3 & 4 locations on the trailer plug to get your running lights to work. Hope this helps.

BSHGTO · 03-01-2018, 04:55 AM

Originally Posted by jmlocklin
I had a fuse blow on my truck that caused the running lights to go out. I replaced the fuse and thought all would be well, but when I hooked up the trailer the running lights did not work. I took the truck, a 2016 F-150, in to have it checked but decided to trade it in while at the dealership. So I now have a 2017 F-250.

I would never get this past the wife

You are the man

**flybouy** · 03-01-2018, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BSHGTO

Originally Posted by jmlocklin
I had a fuse blow on my truck that caused the running lights to go out. I replaced the fuse and thought all would be well, but when I hooked up the trailer the running lights did not work. I took the truck, a 2016 F-150, in to have it checked but decided to trade it in while at the dealership. So I now have a 2017 F-250.

I would never get this past the wife

You are the man

For those looking for a new truck the pins on the truck to jump (no fuse, solid wire say 10 gauge) would be 1 & 3

If I did this it would be the DW blowing a fuse!

jmlocklin · 03-02-2018, 07:44 AM

Thanks for the info. I used the jumper and sure enough the fuse blew. Now I will look for the wiring issue on the trailer. I may need to add the main reason for getting the new truck. I loved the 2016 truck and I love my trailer, but not the combination. I just did not feel safe on the highway. I felt the trailer was too much for the F-150, and I am sure it was at max weight. So I was really looking for a bigger truck. I bought the F-150 less than a year ago and only put 6000 miles on it. I just did not want to think about a long distance trip pulling the trailer with that truck. Too stressful for a retired guy. I can't wait to hook up the new truck, but only after the wiring issue is fixed.

jmlocklin · 03-03-2018, 02:31 PM

Update on wiring issue. I checked what I suspected was the problem only to find that it was not the problem. Any ideas on what the problem could be. I was pulling the trailer when the problem occurred. Could it be a grounding issue? All other lights work fine. I guess I will have to take it Camping World for them to fix it. The closest one has a terrible service rating, so I would like to fix it myself if possible.

RickBetterley · 03-03-2018, 03:18 PM

I know nothing about electrical issues but I do know about having a big enough truck.
You are going to love hauling with the new F250.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

**flybouy** · 03-03-2018, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlocklin

Update on wiring issue. I checked what I suspected was the problem only to find that it was not the problem. Any ideas on what the problem could be. I was pulling the trailer when the problem occurred. Could it be a grounding issue? All other lights work fine. I guess I will have to take it Camping World for them to fix it. The closest one has a terrible service rating, so I would like to fix it myself if possible.

Sounds like the circuit is shorted to ground. That can be very frustrating to trace. Do you know how to use a multimeter? If you do then I'd start at the umbilical plug and wire first. It should terminate in a box under the trailer where it connects to the wiring for the camper. If that's ok then remove all running light lamps if they are incandescent and check each socket for a short to ground.
Hope this helps.

jmlocklin · 05-18-2018, 08:08 PM

Running light update.- Just picked up my camper from camping world. They reported no issue with the wiring. But, turned on the running lights and only 6 lights come on, 2 on the top front, 2 lights on each side. 5 lights do not come on on the rear, 3 across the rear and one on each rear side. Could it be a bulb issue? I started to return it to camping world, but they had the trailer for 2 1/2 months to fix the problem that they could not find. Is there a wiring diagram showing how these lights are wired?

**JRTJH** · 05-19-2018, 06:51 AM

It sure sounds like the dealership's service department didn't do a very good job of turning on the lights, walking around the trailer and looking (counting) the number of "lit lights"..... I'd talk to the service manager and let him know how you feel. Hopefully this won't turn out to be a "tactic by CW" of keeping trailers for 10 weeks so owners won't bring them back for more work.... But then, if they didn't fix it, you've got to decide whether or not to return or fix it yourself.

As for getting a schematic or wiring diagram, good luck, if you do obtain one, it would be "worth its weight in gold" on the open market, since it would be the only one ever provided to a customer.....

**flybouy** · 05-19-2018, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlocklin

Running light update.- Just picked up my camper from camping world. They reported no issue with the wiring. But, turned on the running lights and only 6 lights come on, 2 on the top front, 2 lights on each side. 5 lights do not come on on the rear, 3 across the rear and one on each rear side. Could it be a bulb issue? I started to return it to camping world, but they had the trailer for 2 1/2 months to fix the problem that they could not find. Is there a wiring diagram showing how these lights are wired?

So, given your revelation on what happened with the truck, why didn't you buy a new camper?

Seriously, I would have had some choice words with the manager at CW. I would recommend taking a known good bulb and start replacing the ones that don't work. If the good bulb doesn't work then you have a wiring issue. A disconnected or shorted wire can be a nightmare to find without a tracing tool that's expensive.

SC Dreamer · 05-19-2018, 08:24 AM

Use a longer piece of wire attached to a good known trailer ground. Check for power at non working bulbs, then check continuity to the ground at that fixture, may be faulty grounds at some fixtures.

jmlocklin · 05-19-2018, 01:49 PM

In all fairness to Camping World, it was explained to me that the service dept had undergone changes during the 10 weeks time period they had the trailer and they now had a new manager. Apparently my camper was assigned to someone who left and no one knew whether it had been fixed or not. After trying to contact them by phone and never getting a call back, I went in person to the dealership and was told the person I needed to talk to was not there, but I was assured that I would be called the following day. A week later, I decided to contact both CW corp. through their complaint division, and also Keystone. Both replied almost immediately. Keystone rep said that warranty service was authorized the end of March. Camping World also called this past Wed and the person explained they would immediately recheck to see that repairs has been made. On Thursday they called to say it was not fixed, but they would have it ready on Friday. So, I have the camper back and I will fix the light issue myself, even it I have to rewire them. I am usually not one to complain, but if I hadn't it would not have been fixed. By the way, I love pulling the trailer with my new truck. I guess for now I am a happy "camper"

**JRTJH** · 05-19-2018, 06:33 PM

In all fairness to Camping World ????

It sounds to me like they dropped the ball big time on this one. Not only did they not work on your trailer, they lost it in "their personnel shuffle" and then failed to return your calls as promised, then promised that it would be repaired by Friday and when you picked it up, from what you describe, it was essentially "untouched". So, IMHO, you're being far too kind in your defense of CW.

As for fixing it yourself, they've already been paid (approved by Keystone in March) to repair your trailer. At the very least, you should let Keystone know that CW let you down, that they were paid for work they didn't do and that you're having to do the work again (at your expense). Who knows, Keystone may reimburse you for the work they paid CW to do.....

I'd make sure that management above the CW store is aware of how they let you down. YMMV

**chuckster57** · 05-19-2018, 06:44 PM

Warranty work “authorized” is not warranty work “paid”. The dealership has to submit for prior authorization on any repair that might exceed 1 hr of labor. In that P.A. Is the issue, and estimated time needed. Manufacturer will “authorize” a specific amount of time. Once completed the time is “claimed” using the P.A. Number and any additional time is documented and explained.

Lots of manufacturers are starting to require P.A. On ANY warranty issues, even on a PDI. Try doing a PDI on a Monday, finding several issues and not being able to address them when the customer is scheduled to pick up their brand new unit on Friday. BTDT several times.

jmlocklin · 05-19-2018, 08:32 PM

The warranty repair was for the black tank flush system that did not work. No water would flow into the black tank to flush it out. I suspected that the backflow valve could be backwards, but I'm new to all this so what do I know. The grey water flush valve for the tank from the sink would not close all the way. That was also to be fixed. They did not find a short in the wiring, and I did not specifically tell them the rear lights do not work because they did originally until the fuse blew in my first truck. That caused me to suspect a short in the wiring. I do not know how they checked for that but they suspected it was an issue with the truck. I really considered all this minor, since I had other solutions already in place. I had added external valves for both tanks. it will be 2 weeks before I can test to see if tank problems are really fixed. I will check the bulbs next week which may be the problem. Thanks for all the suggestions and feedback. I think this forum is really a good thing and lots of good information and helpful people. Thanks again.

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