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05-28-2018, 04:04 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Kitchen slide leak
So I noticed a soft spot in the floor beside my kitchen island, not very close to the wall. I figured water was coming in somewhere but did not know where. I had just resolved a leak coming from fresh water pump and I thought it was related to that-I was wrong (it’s been a rough spring). When I came back to the camper this weekend (sits on permanent site, typically with slides open), I noticed the soft area has spread toward the wall at the rear edge of the kitchen slide. I pulled back the vinyl to find the floor rotted at the rear edge of the kitchen slide. More investigation found that the area under the outside kitchen is soft/rotted as well. At this point I am figuring I have a total disaster on my hands. How is this slide supposed to seal? It seems there are only inner and outer “flap” seals on this slide. The super slide on the other side has a seal that gets crushed when the slide is open. I should also mention that I discovered the top outside flap seal was partially folded under. Could this have been my problem. I’ll try to add some pics if possible. Thanks!
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Seth
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05-28-2018, 04:15 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Here are a couple of pics. I should also mention that my floor is the luan/foam sandwich type if I understand correctly.
Pic of the camper for reference.
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07-15-2018, 08:22 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Update
Well not much action on this thread but I tough I would update anyway. What a mess. I tore up the old floor. Put 1.5” insulation down, and replaced floor surface with. 1/4” aluminum. I also added an aluminum joist for support. Didn’t screw down yet. Then I followed the rot. Floor of “furnace room” beneath pantry was rotted out. Outside kitchen floor rotted out. In fact I found the sink drain to be installed incorrectly and now I wonder if that may be be the source. The outside kitchen and furnace room are going to be the most challenging. Because there are not aluminum joists throughout. Here are some pics:
The problem I have now is removing the outside kitchen counter without damaging. Appears to be nailed from the bottom. Thoughts? Anyone tackle this already that could throw some tips my way?
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07-17-2018, 11:38 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Swanton
Posts: 188
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I can feel your pain. I'm doing half of my floor, 1/4 of the drivers side wall and 1/3 of the roof. On my Fleetwood Pegasus. What fun.
Jack
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07-18-2018, 02:05 AM
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#5
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
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No tips just encouragement. Looks like you are doing a great job. Sorry for your issues. You are doing a huge task that we would all dread.
__________________
Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
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07-19-2018, 12:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Swanton
Posts: 188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoolsOut
Well not much action on this thread but I tough I would update anyway. What a mess. I tore up the old floor. Put 1.5” insulation down, and replaced floor surface with. 1/4” aluminum. I also added an aluminum joist for support. Didn’t screw down yet. Then I followed the rot. Floor of “furnace room” beneath pantry was rotted out. Outside kitchen floor rotted out. In fact I found the sink drain to be installed incorrectly and now I wonder if that may be be the source. The outside kitchen and furnace room are going to be the most challenging. Because there are not aluminum joists throughout. Here are some pics:
The problem I have now is removing the outside kitchen counter without damaging. Appears to be nailed from the bottom. Thoughts? Anyone tackle this already that could throw some tips my way?
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The way they build these they are not repair friendly. My walls were screwed in from the top. I used a Sawzall to cut the screws to get it apart. It will go together differently. They must use one wiring harness for all trailers, In had 5 feet of extra just laying there. That will be shortened. For my floor I'm just wedging it up enough to slid the new floor under it.
\Jack
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07-19-2018, 04:53 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavediver
The way they build these they are not repair friendly. My walls were screwed in from the top. I used a Sawzall to cut the screws to get it apart. It will go together differently. They must use one wiring harness for all trailers, In had 5 feet of extra just laying there. That will be shortened. For my floor I'm just wedging it up enough to slid the new floor under it.
\Jack
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What are you using for the floor? Only thing I could think of that would be strong enough at 1/4” but light-ish was aluminum.
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Seth
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07-19-2018, 04:53 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavediver
I can feel your pain. I'm doing half of my floor, 1/4 of the drivers side wall and 1/3 of the roof. On my Fleetwood Pegasus. What fun.
Jack
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What material are you using for subfloor?
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Seth
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07-19-2018, 04:56 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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This weekend I’m going after the outside kitchen. I’ll photo document in case anyone else runs into this disaster.
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Seth
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07-19-2018, 05:12 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,692
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I just want to echo Chip's thoughts and encouragement. That is a daunting task and one that everyone of us prays we never encounter and would dread having to do the job you are doing. You're doing a great job in the face of adversity. I know it's tough and I truly do feel for you. I wish you great luck in getting it repaired with as little frustration as possible. Good luck and keep us apprised.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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07-20-2018, 06:59 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Swanton
Posts: 188
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I went with 3/8 Baltic birch plywood it's stronger than regular plywood . It seems to be strong enough, not as strong or rot resistant as aluminum. I wish I would have thought of aluminum. I've been a welder my whole life. I could have put in a few stiffeners. I put everything in with great stuff polyurethane foam adhesive. It seems to work pretty well.
Jack
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01-09-2019, 06:22 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Getting ready to put new floor covering down...I am planning to use vinyl plank flooring such as this:
It looks good, is relatively easy to install, and is waterproof. My question is, should I try to seal the top of the luan before installing? As you can see I tore up the old vinyl because I wanted to inspect the floors to determine if there is any more damage...which there was to the rear bedroom:
Here is the bare floor that I am considering sealing before installing floor covering - it just seems too vulnerable to leave it as is...thoughts?
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Seth
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01-09-2019, 07:11 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Wandering the Country
Posts: 596
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Is this new flooring "self adhesive" or is it that "floating floor" kind. I would be hesitant to adhere the new flooring to the luan...
Mike
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01-09-2019, 07:50 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikec557
Is this new flooring "self adhesive" or is it that "floating floor" kind. I would be hesitant to adhere the new flooring to the luan...
Mike
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It would be floating. Good point tho!
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01-10-2019, 04:31 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Wandering the Country
Posts: 596
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Okay. This is just my handyman opinion, no expertise here.
I'd do something to seal the luan. Nothing fancy, maybe a coat latex primer, or regular, paint. My thinking is that luan wood is like a sponge and if water gets to it it'd be nice if it had a chance to evaporate before soaking in. In addition to that, I'd consider the entire downstairs floor a wet area like a kitchen in a s&b home. I would cover the entire area with that resin (rosin?) paper required in a s&b build. Home improvement stores sell it by the roll. It's not expensive. I know you said the new flooring is waterproof but the paper is cheap insurance. It too will help any liquid penatration get a chance to evaporate before soaking into the luan.
Signed
Jack of all trades, Master of none
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01-10-2019, 06:38 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Lisbon
Posts: 551
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When I replaced the rotten floor in my old trailer I gave it a few coats of paint to try and protect it from future leaks. Great way to use up some of that old paint you've got laying around too!
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
2020 Ford F-350 XLT SC SRW 6.7l Powerstroke.
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01-10-2019, 07:06 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 2,117
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Have you thought about applying a couple coats of "Red Guard"?
It is a polymer coating that can be brushed or rolled on to any clean, dry surface and forms a tough film that is waterproof. Used it to coat the backer board before installing the wall tiles during our shower renovation in the S&B.
Recommended for sealing cracks in concrete slabs before flooring such as laminate or tile is installed. It remains flexible, so the twisting of an RV floor should not be a problem. Just a thought.
__________________
Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
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01-10-2019, 02:16 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Wandering the Country
Posts: 596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith948
Have you thought about applying a couple coats of "Red Guard"?
It is a polymer coating that can be brushed or rolled on to any clean, dry surface and forms a tough film that is waterproof. Used it to coat the backer board before installing the wall tiles during our shower renovation in the S&B.
Recommended for sealing cracks in concrete slabs before flooring such as laminate or tile is installed. It remains flexible, so the twisting of an RV floor should not be a problem. Just a thought.
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I like this idea and pass on a tip a tile layer once told me about this product. Before applying the first coat (of 3 or 4, in a tile project) to the backer board, dilute it about 50-50 with water so that it penetrates the backer-board a little. Then use straight mix on the succeeding coats. Now, since backer-board and luan are so different, I probably would not go 50-50 with water. It's your guess here, but maybe thin the first coat with "some" water so that it does penetrate the luan a little.
Just a thought.
Mike
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01-13-2019, 12:07 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lititz
Posts: 17
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Checkingout the Red Guard and I like the look of that as a waterproofer. My concern is that this luan layer seems so sensitive to moisture, that I may actually damage it by "wetting" it with paint. Any merit to this concern?
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Seth
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01-13-2019, 12:25 PM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schoolsOut
Checkingout the Red Guard and I like the look of that as a waterproofer. My concern is that this luan layer seems so sensitive to moisture, that I may actually damage it by "wetting" it with paint. Any merit to this concern?
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My concern would be that luan has 2 sides. Painting one side doesn't do anything for the other side which is not accessible and in contact with Styrofoam which acts as a sponge. 1/8" or 3/16" luan will act like a sponge itself, so making one side "impermeable to moisture" will only "halfway" solve the issue of water damage..... YMMV
ADDED: On second thought, painting the outside surface of the "sandwich" would/could lock the moisture in the 3 ply luan/Styrofoam/luan structure and might even cause more damage than leaving it unpainted. Again, YMMV
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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