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Old 04-14-2019, 02:52 PM   #1
Bignewsantafe
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2016 3100RL Alpine Slide/iN-Command Problem

My slides cut out because the iN-Command system voltage drops below 10.5 volts and I have a new set of Lifeline GPL-6CT's and the voltage at the pump stays above 12 volts. Also put in a 50amp thermo breaker in for the pump. iN-Command say says it need to be hard wired to a manual switch and they will pay for it. Camping World want us to bring it in to check it out and then bring it back for the repair. That's 400 miles over 4 trips of driving and 4 days off of work to do it too!
Chuckster57 would you know what it would take to wire in the manual switch? I do wiring for work and very good a reading diagrams.
Has anyone else come down with this problem?

Thanks in advance.
Bignewsantafe
Allen
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:13 PM   #2
ChuckS
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Look at page 6 of this link to see where 12 volt signal is coming off BCM for signal to open or close the hydraulic slide solenoid valve

Only one valve for all hyd slides.

Also does the dual polarity solenoid on the hyd pump motor click when trying to use in command to operate slides

50 amp resettable breaker to dual polarity solenoid is not large enough.

Thatís why slides are starting and stopping. Increase that resettable breaker to 80 amp per Lippert.

Link for BCM wiring ....

https://www.asaelectronics.com/media...2011302015.pdf
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:20 PM   #3
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Also I donít believe you need a separate switch to run those slides. The hyd solenoid valve for the slides doesnít require a lot of current to open.

The dual polarity solenoid does however need a large amount of current to operate the hyd pump motor to drive the slides.

Also the BCM should already have a manual over ride switch to operate the slides in the event of BCM issue.

Install larger amp breaker from battery to dual polarity solenoid.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...ulic_Pumps.pdf
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:18 PM   #4
Bignewsantafe
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Chuck, first thank you for the quick reply. Would have gotten back to you sooner but was reattaching the cable and gas line hanger that's under the kitchen slide above the tires as it broke loose and I'll bet I would have had a fire before I made it fifty miles from the house!
Anyway some answer to your questions;

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
Also I donít believe you need a separate switch to run those slides. The hyd solenoid valve for the slides doesnít require a lot of current to open.
Is this the one mounted on the pump itself? I would rather not wire in a switch if I could get it to work like is should again.

The dual polarity solenoid does however need a large amount of current to operate the hyd pump motor to drive the slides.
With my clamp on amp meter on the pos; battery cable, I have seen 60+ amps of current when the pump runs.

Also the BCM should already have a manual over ride switch to operate the slides in the event of BCM issue.
This switch does nothing but make a couple relays on the DC to click. Pump doesn't run.



Install larger amp breaker from battery to dual polarity solenoid.
I have checked the 50 amp thermal breaker when the pump runs and kicks out and this breaker still has voltage to the load side.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...ulic_Pumps.pdf
And on terminals 42 & 43 that have the signal for the slides the voltage starts out at 11.2vdc and drops when the pump runs. And the DC still has 12.8 volts at it's supply terminals.
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Old 04-14-2019, 06:43 PM   #5
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Iím not going to much more help than what youíve gotten so far. We donít sell/service units with the in command system so Iím not that familiar with specific schematics.

What Chuck has said is on track, and I too donít believe you need a separate switch.
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Old 04-14-2019, 07:10 PM   #6
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Thanks for the reply Chuckster57! Was wondering if you and ChuckS were the same? Now I know.
But now the refrigerator, we started up earlier today was cooling off just fine but then after I fixed the cable and gas line hanger the fridge is flashing between the temp and LP. It had gotten down to 40* and is now back up to 50*. We were experiencing some trouble with it last fall before we put it away and now I don't remember what I did to fix it then? I swear we have had more trouble with this rig in two & half years than we did with the used Jag we had for 5!
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:16 AM   #7
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I own a 2014 Alpine and feel like Im pretty well versed in the hyd system and what it needs to run...

Here is a pic of the 3 of 4 solenoids in the hyd pump system...

The solenoid to the far right is the ONLy one for all hyd slides...I’d check voltage at this solenoid.. one side is DC power and other is common ground.. these are located up in your passenger side battery compartment looking up high toward the front.. the other solenoid not located here is on the passenger side front LG and is for both front legs

Does the hydraulic landing gear all function normal during raise, lower, and auto level? If so then issue is just with slide out circuit or DC load being presented to either the dual polarity solenoid or that 50 amp breaker

You may measure voltage on that “load side” of breaker but is the current carrying ability there at 50 amps...

I would absolutely upgrade that resettable breaker to 80 amps before continuing your trouble shooting

I’d also check the source signal to the dual polarity solenoid terminals for the hyd pump motor..

When your slides stop do you still have signal source at solenoid from slide out circuit?

Have you tested the dual polarity solenoid? Link for test procedure ....

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...y_Solenoid.pdf

My year Alpine did not have in command .. and aim glad...however I’m fairly well versed at troubleshooting the in command system as well

You stated you heard “clicks” when you pressure manual override switch on BCM for slideout. ...this tells me you have power to slide circuit and the clicks are the relay on the BCM

The voltage drop down to 11.2 volts you are measuring at the BCM terminals going to the slide solenoid is too low..

Anything below 11.6 volts and the system most likely won’t run...

Check voltage at the far right solenoid “black arrow” and see what you have when you select slides to operate...
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:28 AM   #8
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Additional info that may help you... check for 12 volts signal source at the two small terminals on the dual polarity solenoid that provide DC power to CW or CCW rotation of the motor when commanded via slide lit signal line source.

Color coding of those wires should be as in this pic of manual switch used on earlier 2014 models

green and yellow wires are what should see 12 volts on one wire at a time depending on command sent from BCM terminals

This pic also gives you and idea of the manual switch wiring needed if you had to go that way.

My thoughts are...

... verify DC power is at hyd pump motor dual polarity terminal when commanded from BCM

... address the 11.2 volts signal your seeing...THIS sounds like a dirty or loose connection in that circuit

... swap out relay on BCM for slides...it could be dropping the signal
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:43 AM   #9
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Swap out relay on BCM circled in yellow... find the one for the slide circuit and swap it with another ďlikeĒ relay from the BCM for trouble shooting purposes to verify relay is good. 12.8 at source on BCM input DC power and only 11.2 at output terminals of BCM slide circuit seems suspect to me
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:01 AM   #10
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I saw your post within post about fridge issues...why not post that issue in separate post here and these guys are really good on this site with their knowledge and expertise...they’ll steer you in the right direction
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