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07-15-2019, 05:57 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Poway
Posts: 13
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Anode issue
Doing some general maintenance on my 2004 Cougar. Trying to replace the Anode electrode. Not having any success breaking loose. Tried small breaker bar and no success. Worried about increasing length of bar. Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks
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07-15-2019, 06:04 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Dade City
Posts: 1,039
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When was the last time it was out? Any indications of Teflon tape or pipe dope?
If it's been a wile, it may be corroded in place. At this point try some penetrating oil.
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07-15-2019, 06:08 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Poway
Posts: 13
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Thanks tried a couple of penetrating oils. Just purchased the rig a few months ago don't know when it was last serviced.
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07-15-2019, 06:20 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Dade City
Posts: 1,039
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From my experience if it has not been opened since 2007 it is filled with crud and will fail soon from corrosion. Put some muscle to it, worst thing is you will replace the 12 year old water heater.
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07-15-2019, 06:27 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Milwaukie, OR
Posts: 1,398
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I agree with Frank. The threads on the anode can get very rusty, even with teflon tape. I replaced the water heater in our last 5er...wasn't a bad job. All you can do is muscle it out and hope for the best. Or just use it as is until it doesn't work anymore and replace it then.
If you can't remove the anode and the heater does eventually fail you will want to drill a hole near the anode to drain the water before removing it from the trailer to avoid excess water inside when disconnecting.
__________________
Jeff & Sandi (and Teddy - 7lb Schnorkie)
2018 Montana High Country 305RL
2015 RAM 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 DRW
Demco Recon Hitch on RAM Puck Ball
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07-15-2019, 07:24 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Folsom
Posts: 369
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I tried to get mine out with breaker bar, but was afraid of breaking the fitting lose from the tank. Then I tried an electric impact wrench. Worked like a charm!
__________________
2002 Montana 3250RL upgraded a bunch
2005 Ford F-250 6.0 Bullet Proofed - SOLD
2017 Ford F350 6.7 Lariet
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07-15-2019, 07:49 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Dade City
Posts: 1,039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hblick48
I tried to get mine out with breaker bar, but was afraid of breaking the fitting lose from the tank. Then I tried an electric impact wrench. Worked like a charm!
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That is a good suggestion!
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08-02-2019, 04:42 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: MARSHALL
Posts: 3
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This might not be the right place for this but, I just bought a 2019 Cougar 29RKS and need to know what size the head is on the plug/anode rod. Previous trailer had tankless water heater so I'm out on practice on emptying a water heater.
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08-02-2019, 04:52 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Poway
Posts: 13
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Anode removal
Inch and a sixteenth worked for me.
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08-02-2019, 05:06 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,345
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Anode issue
Plug is 15/16” and some are 7/8”
anode rod is 1 1/16”
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-02-2019, 05:44 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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If you don't have a socket that fits, rather than buy one, you can use a 12" crescent wrench and a 8 or 10 inch crescent. Just adjust the 12" crescent to fit the flats on the anode, use the smaller wrench to grip the shaft of the large wrench and twist to loosen. I stopped carrying a socket I never use several years ago and now, always use two crescents to remove the anode.
Don't forget to apply Teflon tape or plumber's putty to the threads on reassembly, otherwise it may not come out at the end of the season.... BTDT...
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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08-04-2019, 10:19 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: MARSHALL
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the help guys, I had already tried the biggest socket I had, 15/16, and wouldn't fit, went and bought 1" and wouldn't fit either. I have to get it out.
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08-04-2019, 01:33 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Ocean Isle Beach
Posts: 1,431
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Probably 1 1/16. That is what I use
__________________
2022.Montana 3855 BR
2019 F350 6.7 4X4 DRW
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08-07-2019, 06:38 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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Here is a photo of what I described previously, using two crescent wrenches to remove the anode rod.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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08-07-2019, 07:23 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
Here is a photo of what I described previously, using two crescent wrenches to remove the anode rod.
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BTDT a few time under the hood of a car.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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09-28-2019, 04:23 PM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
If you don't have a socket that fits, rather than buy one, you can use a 12" crescent wrench and a 8 or 10 inch crescent. Just adjust the 12" crescent to fit the flats on the anode, use the smaller wrench to grip the shaft of the large wrench and twist to loosen. I stopped carrying a socket I never use several years ago and now, always use two crescents to remove the anode.
Don't forget to apply Teflon tape or plumber's putty to the threads on reassembly, otherwise it may not come out at the end of the season.... BTDT...
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I started getting the trailer ready to winterize today and took a couple of photos of how I use two crescent wrenches to remove the anode. The photos should be self explanatory.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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09-29-2019, 05:19 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central San Joaguin Valley, CA
Posts: 2,117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireems151
Thanks for the help guys, I had already tried the biggest socket I had, 15/16, and wouldn't fit, went and bought 1" and wouldn't fit either. I have to get it out.
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The anode rod socket size is 1 1/16" - instead of buying different size sockets until you hit on the right one - why not measure the plug? Take the guess work out of it?
__________________
Jack & Marty
2018 Laredo 298 SRL
2011 F-250 SB Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L
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09-29-2019, 05:38 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 247
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Anode Rod when winterizing
When I winterize, I remove the good anode rod.
I have an old one that wore out. I cut off what was left of the rod.
With the good rod out, I put plumbers tape on the old one and hand tighten it in place.
And agree with the 1 1/16"
__________________
2011 Ford F250 XLT CCSB 6.7 DIESEL (SOLD)
2011 Keystone Cougar 318SAB (SOLD)
2022 Ford F350 XLT CCSB 6.7 DIESEL
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09-29-2019, 06:05 AM
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#19
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyphil
When I winterize, I remove the good anode rod.
I have an old one that wore out. I cut off what was left of the rod.
With the good rod out, I put plumbers tape on the old one and hand tighten it in place.
And agree with the 1 1/16"
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For less than $10 replacement costs I replace mine. After years of boating and replacing the zinc plates (anodes) on the stabilizers, lower units/rudders I found that for the cost is was worth replacing and starting out fresh each year. The rational is that once they start to do their jobs the time left on them is not linear, in other words if the anode is 1/2 gone it will still be good for the time it took to get 1/2 used. This is especially true of rod type anodes. 1/2 the diameter of a new anode is a LOT less surface area than 1/2 of a new rod. The formula to calculate is "formula for the surface area of a cylinder is 2 π r2 + 2 π r h" To find the surface area of a cylinder add the surface area of each end plus the surface area of the side. Each end is a circle so the surface area of each end is π * r2, where r is the radius of the end. There are two ends so their combined surface area is 2 π * r2. The surface area of the side is the circumference times the height or 2 π * r * h, where r is the radius and h is the height of the side.
Since there is only one end of the cylinder is exposed, replace the constant 2 with a 1.
I know that's a lengthy explanation but the math doesn't lie. To me, not spending <$10 to protect a several hundred $ water heater isn't cost effective. I replace it at the beginning of the year and if the one I remove doesn't look to bad I'll spray some diluted bleach water on it (to prevent mold) and place it in a zip lock bag before storing it away as a spare. YMMV
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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