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Old 06-06-2018, 03:22 PM   #1
jack65
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Double checking my Truck/Trailer/WDH/sway control system

NOTE: I wanted to continue this in my 6 page towing thread, but it was closed:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=32490

Double checking my Truck/Trailer/WDH/sway control system to make sure everything matches.

I have a 20' 6,000 lb 18RS Outback trailer with a
2014 Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4 5.7L V8 Hemi 395 HP & 410 TQ to pull it with, (it has many upgrades).

Bear in mind this is my first trailer I've ever towed as I've tent camped for over 50 years. My concern is does my truck/trailer match for towing. I don't want to be towing this in the Mountains in in the Pacific NW and have a problem.

The Dealer where I bought my truck said it was.
Now I'm not so sure and a bit confused so I'm asking for help again.
I did post separated threads on trailer, truck and WDH/sway control system which have been closed.
In this thread, I've posted all the info on trailer/truck/WDH/sway control system

****************************

2007 Keystone Outback 18RS
Specs per website:
Chassis
Brakes 4-wheel electric
Tire Size ST205/75D14C
Number of Axles 2

Dimensions and Weights
Overall Height (ft/in) 10' 3"
Overall Width (in) 96
Trailer Length (ft/in) 19' 10"
Gross Vehicle Wt Rating (GVWR) 6000
Unloaded Curb Weight (lb.) 4300
Max Cargo Carrying Capacity (lb.) 1700
Towing
Hitch/Tongue Weight 445
2 5/16th" Ball

BUT, the info at where the tongue when the ball attached says this:
1,500 lbs. Tongue load SAW/CSA Class 4
6,250 lbs. Tongue load

(Towing receiver on my truck says: 1,200 lbs. tongue weight?)

*************************************

Towing truck specs before upgrades/options:
Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi MDS VVT 395 HP Engine
6-Spd Auto Transmission
392 Rear gear ratio
VIN: 1C6RR7GTOES367523

From the factory it had 6 speed transmission, 355 gears, no towing package, no receiver.

Addons\Options
8-Spd Auto 8HP70 Transmission
392 Rear gear ratio
Trailer Tow Mirrors and Brake group
Trailer brake control
Trailer Receiver: 10K lbs gross weight / 1,000 lbs tongue weight
12,000 lbs weight "Distribution / 1,200 WD Tongue weight
Heavy Duty transmission & engine cooling system
Flowmaster exhaust system, K&N air filter system.

For towing, the door sticker BEFORE options added says:
GVWR/PMBV 6800 lbs.
(Towing receiver on my truck says: 1,200 lbs. tongue weight?)
**********************************
My WDH/sway control system system
Equal-i-zer 4-point Sway Control Hitch,
90-00-0600, 6,000 Lbs Trailer Weight Rating,
600 Lbs Tongue Weight Rating, Weight Distribution Kit

I've attached pics of everything.
Really appreciate all your help as before.
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Old 06-06-2018, 04:00 PM   #2
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I'll jump in because I had the same question when I joined this forum. In a nutshell it all rides on (pun intended) your tow vehicle's max payload which is listed at 1,678 lbs (6,800 GVWR minus the 5,122 curb weight) but with your add-ons the max payload will likely be lower.
A rough calculation of 445# tongue weight + 100# weight distribution hitch (WDH) + 70# for propane in two 7 lb tanks + 140# for two deep cycle batteries + 375# or so for two people + wild guess 250# for gear, firewood, etc. in the truck and you're at 1,380 pounds. If you go down the road with anything in the fresh water tank add 8.3 pounds for every gallon and some portion of that will be added to the tongue weight. Add some gear in the trailer and the tongue weight keeps going up.
I think you're going to be at or over your max payload and while your truck can certainly pull it, being overweight isn't safe or legal. I had the same issues and ended up getting an F-250 in order to stay within tolerances.
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Old 06-06-2018, 04:05 PM   #3
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As for your comment, "I don't want to be towing this in the Mountains in in the Pacific NW and have a problem." that echoes my concerns about the mountains in Central California. Just the thought of coming down the mountainside switchbacks from one of our favorite camping spots was enough to get me looking for a more capable tow vehicle.
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Old 06-06-2018, 05:18 PM   #4
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The achilles heel of any 1/2 ton is the payload. Your truck is definitely capable of "pulling" that trailer without a doubt.

Some thoughts;

Your payload is adequate if you don't overdo things. If you max the trailer out at gvw things will get a little slim. Are you going to do that? How many kids do you have? How much "stuff" are you going to throw in? Coming in under gvw gives you some breathing room and 1700 lbs. of "stuff" for the family is a LOT if you're not living in it or staying for long periods.

Run the tanks empty if you can. If you are going to boondock take that into account and dump at the first dump station. Run it across a scale and see where you are. I think you will be fine with some attention.

I pulled a trailer much heavier than yours with a truck very similar, almost identical, to yours with no problems other than the sway and porpoising due to too heavy a load. I was under all weight limits except payload and I knew it. Some say payload is inconsequential, it's not IMO.

The porpoising/sway I experienced was greatly mitigated by 1) installation of air bags (Airlift 1000), 2) upgrading the trailer tires to LRE and stiffer shocks (Rancho at the time). Those mods were made to tow a trailer with a 10k gvw, not 6k. Obviously the solution for me was a bigger HD truck, which was warranted. I think you are going to be fine. I do think that the 6k bars might be a little light with the 1/2 ton but I would say give it a shot and run it across a scale. And, if you have the 1/2 ton, do you have the "towing" mirrors? If not, you are in a dangerous predicament. I tried that and you can't see. You need replacements. Good luck and have fun.
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Old 06-06-2018, 05:32 PM   #5
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Yes Danny looking at his build sheet he has the trailer tow mirrors. I had the same truck and was right at the payload (maybe a bit over). Traded it in on a Ford F150 with a lot more payload. Wanted a 250/2500 but DW wants a carlike ride.
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66joej View Post
Yes Danny looking at his build sheet he has the trailer tow mirrors. I had the same truck and was right at the payload (maybe a bit over). Traded it in on a Ford F150 with a lot more payload. Wanted a 250/2500 but DW wants a carlike ride.

Joe, dig up my posts from years ago. I agree completely with what your DW says and I resisted upgrading for years. Having driven old style 3/4 ton trucks they were devastating to my back. Fast forward to new HD truck; it wasn't as bad as I thought and those terrible back pains I had had for decades attributed to a muscle pull...? Had to have my gall bladder removed two years ago. The acute back pain I had had for decades....gone - and one my most fervent arguments was the harshness of a HD ride. Now, we are used to it, since my back is better, but I can assure you it does not ride like a 1/2 ton - but it does and provides us so much more.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66joej View Post
... Traded it in on a Ford F150 with a lot more payload. Wanted a 250/2500 but DW wants a carlike ride.

Oh yes, the F-250 does ride a bit rough at times and that has taken some getting used to. I also had to get a 10" drop shank for the WDH because of the added height, but it's nice up there looking over the top of traffic seeing what's up ahead. The bonus is going down the road not even feeling the trailer back there. Granted, I don't have a big whale behind me but it's nice not having to think about weight issues and the built-in trailer brakes and tow/haul mode are sweet. I rode in a friends 2018 F-250 and it definitely has a smoother ride.
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:03 PM   #8
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You can click lookup my vehicle and enter your vin to get your towing info

https://www.ramtrucks.com/towing-guide.html
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:28 AM   #9
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Going to Takhlakh Lake that sits just under Mt Adams is a fairly long trip between the huge Mt Rainer & Mt St Helens. Remote with no water or electric hookups, just the way my wife and I like it. We didn't take water in the tanks in the popup the last two years. We took bottled water and plan to do that this year. Just don't feel like taking a heavy trailer up the windy roads. I guessing, we have about 300-500 lbs of gear in pickup bed and a 200 lbs in trailer. We don't spend much time in camp, at first light, out fishing or hiking or taking a drive to another nearby lake. This place is heaven on earth!

http://1-4u-computer-graphics.com/Mt...hLake-2017.htm




Fishing was great!


One of the hikes:
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:27 AM   #10
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I went to two shops, Camping World and Ballews Hitch, Truck & RV and they both said my setup was fine. I was planning on installing the Equal-i-zer hitch’s integrated 4-Point Sway Control myself but decided to let Ballews do it. I didn't have a big/deep enough socket & TQ wrench to install the ball, Ballews did it for free, then I found out they would install it for $95! That's an excellent price and peace of mind to have it done right. Will have it done next week. They've got a good reputation and been in business for 65 years, family owned. Here is the link for any of you in Tacoma:
https://www.ballew****chtruckrv.com/
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:35 PM   #11
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NOTE: I wanted to continue this in my 6 page towing thread, but it was closed:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=32490

Well, the Equal-i-zer 4-point Sway Control Hitch is installed. I didn't trust myself to do this, plus didn't have some of the tools needed for torquing etc. Peace of mind too. This shop, Ballew,s Hitch, Truck & RV is a 3rd generation owned shop for 65 years. Best reputation in Tacoma. The owner himself installed the system. I took pics of every step in case I have to work on it down the road. They specialize in Equal-i-zer brand and accessories too. I'm glad I got it done there. However, it seems a bit noisy stopping, going around corners etc. (can't hear it as I'm nearly "deaf") but can feel it so I know it's making noise. Is that normal? Maybe the chains etc?
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:41 PM   #12
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Do you have the little grey teflon? pads on the tongue brackets. They do make a difference in reducing noise when turning. The chains would not be making noise. YMMV
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack65 View Post
NOTE: I wanted to continue this in my 6 page towing thread, but it was closed:
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=32490

Well, the Equal-i-zer 4-point Sway Control Hitch is installed. I didn't trust myself to do this, plus didn't have some of the tools needed for torquing etc. Peace of mind too. This shop, Ballew,s Hitch, Truck & RV is a 3rd generation owned shop for 65 years. Best reputation in Tacoma. The owner himself installed the system. I took pics of every step in case I have to work on it down the road. They specialize in Equal-i-zer brand and accessories too. I'm glad I got it done there. However, it seems a bit noisy stopping, going around corners etc. (can't hear it as I'm nearly "deaf") but can feel it so I know it's making noise. Is that normal? Maybe the chains etc?
Equalizer 4 pt. - you need to lube the swiveling head where the bars attach - top and bottom (friction points - see manual). Put lube on the ball. Buy the Equalizer tabs that go over the L brackets. Clean/relubricate as it is used - virtually no noise.
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Old 06-24-2018, 03:09 AM   #14
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If it's making noise, it's doing its job.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:30 AM   #15
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Mine was really noisy when new as it gets broken in it quiets down some. The last time while checking in at the office I backed off the torqued head bolts a quarter turn just to see if it affected the hitch when entering the campground. I always torque them to 65lbs. before pulling out.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
Equalizer 4 pt. - you need to lube the swiveling head where the bars attach - top and bottom (friction points - see manual). Put lube on the ball. Buy the Equalizer tabs that go over the L brackets. Clean/lubricate as it is used - virtually no noise.
I had a heck of a time getting the passenger side bar loose to get it off the L bar. Took a half hour to budge it... had to get the Tongue Jack really high and use a crow bar to get it loose. Hope it's not always like that! They did say at the shop it would be stiff for awhile. So like some of you said here, lubing it may help that...
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:14 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jack65 View Post
I had a heck of a time getting the passenger side bar loose to get it off the L bar. Took a half hour to budge it... had to get the Tongue Jack really high and use a crow bar to get it loose. Hope it's not always like that! They did say at the shop it would be stiff for awhile. So like some of you said here, lubing it may help that...
Put a 6x6 block under your tongue jack and it won't have to raise so high. Also, were you on a really unlevel space left to right? Leveling will help with the unhooking.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:25 PM   #18
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Put a 6x6 block under your tongue jack and it won't have to raise so high. Also, were you on a really unlevel space left to right? Leveling will help with the unhooking.
It was level at the storage where I parked it. Nothing was happening until the lady that owned the storage lent me her 6x6 block. Still had to raise it pretty high and crow bar it off.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:32 PM   #19
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It was level at the storage where I parked it. Nothing was happening until the lady that owned the storage lent me her 6x6 block. Still had to raise it pretty high and crow bar it off.
Then sounds like it needs to be used and broken in. They are really stiff in the beginning.
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:05 PM   #20
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It actually should not take more than about 70# (torque on the receiver head) to move the tension arms from the L brackets. Maybe it is adjusted with too much force (weight transfer) on the front axle of your TV. JMO
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