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Old 07-26-2018, 03:08 AM   #1
Tidbitz
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Main electrical panel

So in a month I've burnt up 3 main breakers, and my fridge went completely out right before this happened. I know I don't have the correct main switch in now and it should be here today. I moved over a week ago and have not have a problem with the breaker again. How ever these lights show today, I've checked fuses and they look fine. My electric won't work for my hot water either, and my central heat hasn't work since I bought camper. Any Ideas on what I can do. I am limited to funds. I've bought a fridge that I will be working on installing the next two days. Also does any one have a placement list they can show me for the fuse and breaker system? 2008 280 BH ultralight passport
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Old 07-26-2018, 04:47 AM   #2
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You won’t find schematics. I have found the labeling of fuse and breaker circuits to be wrong from the factory so a test light and plug checker are your best friends when chasing electrical. The lights on the 12V side indicate a blown or missing fuse.

Are you blowing the main BREAKER? (30A on the 110VAC side) or a 40A FUSE on the 12VDC side.
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Old 07-26-2018, 06:42 AM   #3
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Before you do anything else, check your shore power for proper voltage. It sounds like you’re ac sources aren’t correct, and you run the risk of doing more damage.

Good Luck,
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:44 AM   #4
wiredgeorge
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Looks like a 30A service converter box. You should not see 30/30 breakers. The panel should be marked as to what goes where on the 110V side. If not, you will have to turn things off and see what electrical gizmo goes off. The 30 is main. On my trailer, it was next to the A/C 20 on the same breaker. This is kind of dumb since the A/C is the biggest draw. I swapped the 20A A/C connector for the 20A microwave connector so less heat would be generated next to the main breaker. The microwave will be a 20A service. The water heater a 15A service (if you have a water heater with an electric element for heating the water). There will be a GFCI 15A breaker. There will be a 15A TV breaker and maybe some other small gizmo on this circuit and a 15A for the refrigerator.

FIgure out what goes off when a breaker is turned off. Get your A/C 20A away from the 30A main. On my unit, the fan or thermostat have died. This means the converter runs hot so I installed a 110V muffin fan (computer fan) that blows in from the front and is attached to the vented front panel. I may stick another inside somewhere just be make sure things don't get warm.

Power at your electric pole is also kind of sketchy at times during the hottest times of the year. It can sag when lots of folks are using a lot of power due A/C use. They make gizmos that plug into the pole to make sure that you don't fry your components inside the trailer... you might want to look into one of these.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:47 PM   #5
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The 30/20 breaker is being installed this evening, it arrived, I have not had any issues with this one at all but I know it's not correct. No burnt breakers since I have moved but I feel the damage is already done, I have a wiring issue somewhere. I now have 5 lights on and one light as far as I know doesn't go to aything (no wire). I'm also in process of gutting my old fridge that went out a month ago and putting in an all electric. What you you suggest on capping the gas hose ( I would like to use later). And do you know the size of the cap by any chance?
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Old 07-26-2018, 02:13 PM   #6
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It appears to me that you have some major issues going on. Sounds like you may have had faulty power previously which has now caused some other kind of problem(s) inside the trailer. I don't know that replacing breakers is going to fix it until you find what is going on.

First thing I would do is buy an ERS and see what is coming in. You said you moved. Did you move to a completely different campground or just another space in the same place? If just moving spaces you could still have problems from the service in that location. If it is a completely new campground you could STILL have incoming power issues unless you verify what you have.

After that, you need a meter to start checking those circuits. 3 red LEDs indicating some kind of failure, then 5; burned up fridges...you've got issues and testing is the only way you can start narrowing it down IMO.

Also, "going all electric"? What does that mean? It's a 30A trailer. Are you proposing to eliminate/change the furnace? The stove? I think you'll be in a pickle with 30A.

I'm hoping you make progress and get this resolved. IMO putting in the wrong breakers and not troubleshooting the circuits isn't getting you anywhere and, I'm afraid, just setting you back.
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:40 PM   #7
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Please try all of the above and also make sure that the main wires coming into the box and all the circuit breakers that attach to the bus bars are tight. Loose electrical connections will also cause these problems.
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Old 07-26-2018, 06:22 PM   #8
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Refer: most likely the LP line is a 3/8” flare. Just go to the nearest big box hardware store, look in the plumbing department. 3/8” male flare plug should be easy to find. Use two wrenches putting it together and NO THREAD TAPE OR SEALANT is needed.
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:02 PM   #9
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Ok so after removing my fridge, I put in the 30/20 main breaker, a friend just so happens was sending over an electrician at that time. I hooked everything back up and all seemed to be good, it wasn't 30 minutes we go in to look at main unit and there is smoke, my 30/20 was melting again, (now #4), I at this point have no option but to put the 30/30 back in. We go through the system together this time and he agreed with my guess, I need a new fuse panel. I've looked online for an hour now and can not find one. Any ideas?
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:19 PM   #10
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Ok thank you, I used the shut off valve on it for now but definitely don't want to keep the firing system on there when I install this temporary fridge.
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Old 07-27-2018, 05:20 AM   #11
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Based on the photo in your first post, I'd suspect that your power distribution center is a WFCO 8955 (30 amps AC and 55 amps DC).

Here is the factory link: http://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8955-55-amp/

and an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF8955PE...ords=wfco+8955

Note on the Amazon link there is an "offering" for a used one (from Amazon Prime) for $84. That's about half the price of a new one and it supposedly carries the same warranty as a new one. Many Amazon Warehouse items are returns from customers who never used or installed the item.

Anyway, I believe this is what you're looking for.
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