Need to know max trailer size to tow w/Ram Truck

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Also with the 292 rear axle not sure you could get a heavier rv moving, that's a very high gear for towing.

I think 292 is a typo. According to what he marked on the Ram towing chart, I believe he has a 392.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Also with the 292 rear axle not sure you could get a heavier rv moving, that's a very high gear for towing.

That was a typo on my part, the gear is low at 392.

Anybody here have any good links in layman terms explaining the payload, tongue weight, GVWR, GCWR etc as I'm confused on those terms. Why would the chart says "Maximum Trailer Weight" at 10,150 lbs when you can't tow it as everyone says?

I had no trouble towing my 6,000 lb 20 ft Keystone Outback up the Cascades last summer. No swaying at all. Handled great. Most here say I can't tow that and some do...

Bear in mind, compared to most of you folks here who have been towing trailers for years, I'm a newbie as of last year. Tent camped for the past 60+ years.

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by jack65

That was a typo on my part, the gear is low at 392.

Anybody here have any good links in layman terms explaining the payload, tongue weight, GVWR, GCWR etc as I'm confused on those terms. Why would the chart says "Maximum Trailer Weight" at 10,150 lbs when you can't tow it as everyone says?

I had no trouble towing my 6,000 lb 20 ft Keystone Outback up the Cascades last summer. No swaying at all. Handled great. Most here say I can't tow that and some do...

Bear in mind, compared to most of you folks here who have been towing trailers for years, I'm a newbie as of last year. Tent camped for the past 60+ years.

The link below is an excellent video explaining all of the towing weights

https://youtu.be/qwFLOBrADBs

[Northofu1]

Originally Posted by Logan X

The link below is an excellent video explaining all of the towing weights

https://youtu.be/qwFLOBrADBs

This is the one that really hit home for me.

[sourdough]

jack, there are several important numbers to note and adhere to when towing a trailer.....max tow rating is the LAST thing to even think about. It is what it says...the MAXIMUM that should ever be put behind your truck. The other numbers are far more important. Why?

Payload is how much you are putting on the truck that will stress all the suspension components, tires, engine and tranny. GAWR front/rear is the maximum weight you should ever put on an axle. That load varies a lot depending on what kind of engine you have and how you load the truck. It advises you of what the axle can safely support. GVWR is the number you bump up against when you have stuffed everything in/on the truck (people, tools, stuff, hitch, tongue weight). All of those numbers are preceded with the manufacturers words of "must not exceed" or words to that effect. I, and I think many others, like to keep a safety cushion under those numbers...I like 15%. GCVWR is the max combined weight of the loaded truck and trailer. Again, all those numbers have a direct bearing on the physical dynamics being imposed upon all the components of your truck. "Max towing" numbers are generally a sales number, ie; they want to publish that number, not the others, because people, just like you, look at that and think they can tow Mt. Olympus. The manufacturers nor dealers get into the other numbers because all of a sudden, the sales number (max tow) is meaningless. The owners manuals etc. always give the manufacturer an out by stating it is the OWNER'S responsibility to assure that all of those weight criteria are met.....not the max tow particularly.

The above is why you need to comply, preferably with a safety margin, with the dictated weights...not "max tow".

Without your payload sticker we can use the generic payload from the tow chart you posted. It says 1480 lbs. Without a scale trip this is all just guess work.

Figure a 6500 lb. trailer @12% for tongue weight = approx. 800 lbs. Hitch = 100 lbs. People = 400? Tools, jacks, ice chest, bicycles, etc. etc. etc. = 300 lbs. All of that totals 1600 lbs. vs your 1480 limit. And remember, the 1480 is the MAX LIMIT. If you back off by 15% it would actually be approx. 1260. 1600 load vs a 1260 max "safe" payload limit.

Hopefully the above illustrates to you WHY folks keep saying you are far safer looking at a 6000 lb. trailer. The 10,150 max tow rating doesn't even begin to come into the picture. It's the nature of the beast with a 1/2 ton truck.

I, nor anyone else on the forum, wants to limit your rv fun. We don't want to dictate what you can or can't buy. We don't delight in pointing out weaknesses in various scenarios. On the other hand we very much want you to be informed about what you are doing and more than anything else...safe. To do that you receive all the kinds of input you have from your original post. It seems complicated but it isn't. The construction of the vehicle mandates that there are weight limits imposed by the various components. Those limits are posted in the manner I explained above. It is up to us as owner/users to know them and comply with them. Scaled weights are the most accurate but in lieu of that using the numbers posted inside the driver door, which are specific to YOUR vehicle, is the next best way. And you ALWAYS us the gvw numbers...because you will eventually get there.

Hopefully this provides some clarification. It is just how it works no matter how badly we sometimes "wish it wasn't so".

[GMcKenzie]

Originally Posted by 66joej

Actually Danny they do. This is from my truck.
The french version reinforces it is from Canada.

Want to confirm that Cdn trucks do have the same sticker. Mine id on the frame, not the door itself, but it is there.

Without the payload number from the sticker, or running it over a scale and deducting from GVW, it's all pretty much guesswork as to what you can tow.

[jack65]

First off, THANKS for all the time and info you guys have given me... Danny is one that has been very helpful several times the past year. I'm new to this having only one year under my belt trailer towing/camping with the 18RS Keystone Outback which had the 6000 lb rating. Tent camped the previous 60+ years. Anyways, from all I've read here, video & links, I'm going to keep it at 6,000 lbs and under. I want around 25-26'. I will double check before I actually buy the trailer which will be in the next week or two.

Is this app very helpful, anyone use it?
https://rvtowcheck.com/

Now the question is what trailer to buy? Maybe I should post this question elsewhere? I want to avoid any with FILON on it and if I can't, which brands have less trouble with it. I never ever want to see those nasty bubbles on the front again and why I sold my keystone Outback.
Here are some samples I'm looking at:
Top 5 Best 4 Seasons Travel Trailers Under 6,000 lbs GVWR
https://www.rvingplanet.com/blog/top...6000-lbs-gvwr/

Here are some in the 5,000 lb range:
https://camperreport.com/9-awesome-t...r-5000-pounds/

Saw one Keystones listed... what do they have that is good that don't have FILON problems?

[busterbrown]

A good, clean PDI as well as interval-based preventative maintenance are really the top things will help you avoid a lemon of a coach in the years to come. Some trailer brands are built better than others...Lance is one that comes to mind. But they price them much higher than a competitor's brand. That still doesn't guarantee a troublefree unit.

If you buy new, Jayco has a 2 year warranty bumper to hitch warranty on all their models. Lance may go longer than the typical 1 year you seen from most manufacturers.

As you'll here over and over again, find the floorplan you want first. Then find a unit that gets the proper pre-delivery service that you would expect. You'll have a year or two to get out all the "bugs" without spending you own "fix-it" money.

If you do buy used, you're essentially taking the word from the previous owner on "what was done" to the coach while in their possession.

Have fun finding your next coach.

[JRTJH]

The first linked article you posted has this in one of the descriptions: "However, the Camplite features a furnace–among many other insulation-based features–that make it usable for chilly winters! "

That pretty much tells me that it's NOT a detailed or technically involved description of "actual trailer specifications", rather it's an article based on very basic, generalized "novice blurbs".... That's not intended to sound elitist, but looking at that article, it didn't have any useful information other than "advertising for 5 brands". To me, making a choice based on that information would lead to "buyer's remorse" probably starting on the first camping trip.

All but the last two trailers in that article have FILON laminated wall structures. The last two have "corrugated aluminum walls" which have their own "OH NO!!!" negatives. If you choose that type wall structure, don't ever lean a shovel against it or even lean your body against it. If you do, you risk "damage that's not repairable".... Dents don't pop out of "corrugated aluminum walls".....

As stated by many, find the FLOORPLAN that meets your needs and realize that no matter which trailer you buy, be it a 15 year old "abused unit" to a brand new "ultimate luxury unit" unless you maintain the structure as well as the mechanicals, it will eventually have problems caused by moisture. Some of those problems manifest as "delamination", some as "oil canning" and some as "cracks and holes" in the structure.

It's more about "how you maintain it" than how "reliable the material" might be. So, I'd suggest you find a floorplan that has everything you want and a dealership that's reputable. Ask for names of customers and call them to inquire about the "SERVICE AFTER THE SALE".... That's much more important than the salesman's smile or promises.....

There are literally "hundreds of thousands" of FILON sided trailers on the roads. You hear of a few with problems, but I'd ask, is that worth "eliminating the successful results" that are enjoyed by the other "several hundred thousand owners" ????

[jack65]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

As stated by many, find the FLOORPLAN that meets your needs and realize that no matter which trailer you buy, be it a 15 year old "abused unit" to a brand new "ultimate luxury unit" unless you maintain the structure as well as the mechanicals, it will eventually have problems caused by moisture. Some of those problems manifest as "delamination", some as "oil canning" and some as "cracks and holes" in the structure.

It's more about "how you maintain it" than how "reliable the material" might be. There are literally "hundreds of thousands" of FILON sided trailers on the roads. You hear of a few with problems, but I'd ask, is that worth "eliminating the successful results" that are enjoyed by the other "several hundred thousand owners" ????

Well, I am one of them that had FILON problems!

I guess that pretty much sums it up. I take care of all my stuff and pretty fussy with details... having owned five Corvettes over the years too. But I never want to see delamination on my trailer again. I was so embarrassed having it parked in my driveway, only way was front facing out, I put it in storage and didn't use it again until I sold it.

So, do you know of a list or can recommend trailers that fit what I want, under 6,000 lbs in the 24-26' range? Since our house sale is pending, we're looking for a nice RV park to stay in for a few months while looking for a home in the country, then after that, the trailer will be used for camping trips. We would rent a place, but most all require a year to year contract and we don't want that as when we find a house, we want to move right in. We've been looking at some nice local RV parks and either their full or like the one I got today:

We are a long term facility only. I’m sorry but our park is full and
we are not accepting waitlist clients. We have a 9-12 month waiting
list. Susan

[sourdough]

Jack, I think you may have had the misfortune of purchasing a trailer that had previous damage. There are lots of filon trailers out there, lots, as John said. I will say that in recollection (for what it is) all the trailers I've seen with the "blistered" looking front cap were designed like yours so it may be in the way it is joined to the roof that requires some extra care ??

I've looked thru the Keystone units for a while and come to the conclusion that a "metal" sided trailer in the 25-26' range that weighs around 6k is going to be hard to find. I think it may be the construction. The filon units are usually made to cut weight and have aluminum frames etc. In the construction standards listed on the pages it states that. With the metal sided units nothing like that is stated so I figure they may have wooden framing. I also am assuming you want to go from the approx. 20' of the old trailer to 25-26' because you want to eliminate the back bed slide?

You might look at these; Bullet 210RUDWE, Passport 216RDWE or Passport 234QBWE. Trying to match that weight with that length is somewhat difficult.

If you just can't find something to work for you in Keystone you could try other brands. Some friends in FL bought a new trailer this year that's might be along the lines of what you want. It was a Forest River Salem and had metal sides. It was nothing fancy. I did not go inside but my wife did and said it was not built as well as our Keystone and didn't have a lot of the "stuff" we have and consider essential (oven for one) - but from the specs it appears "light". Personally I would worry where that weight reduction came from...….

[jack65]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I've looked thru the Keystone units for a while and come to the conclusion that a "metal" sided trailer in the 25-26' range that weighs around 6k is going to be hard to find. I think it may be the construction. The filon units are usually made to cut weight and have aluminum frames etc. In the construction standards listed on the pages it states that. With the metal sided units nothing like that is stated so I figure they may have wooden framing. I also am assuming you want to go from the approx. 20' of the old trailer to 25-26' because you want to eliminate the back bed slide?

You might look at these; Bullet 210RUDWE, Passport 216RDWE or Passport 234QBWE. Trying to match that weight with that length is somewhat difficult.

Yep... because the last trailer was 20' with slideout in and 26' with slideout out. A 20' would be too small as we're planing to live it in for 1-6 months until we find a house in the country. We just sold our house, pending, so need to move out at the end of the month.

Wouldn't the weight be similar to the one we had as that slideout would weigh more than a standard 20' one without slideout?

[jack65]

Originally Posted by Logan X

The link below is an excellent video explaining all of the towing weights

https://youtu.be/qwFLOBrADBs

Thanks for that link Logan. BTW, you sent me an PM and I replied back twice, but when I checked my "sent" folder it said I had none??? Did you get it or not... if not, I need to find out why it didn't.

[busterbrown]

Originally Posted by jack65

Yep... because the last trailer was 20' with slideout in and 26' with slideout out. A 20' would be too small as we're planing to live it in for 1-6 months until we find a house in the country. We just sold our house, pending, so need to move out at the end of the month.

Wouldn't the weight be similar to the one we had as that slideout would weigh more than a standard 20' one without slideout?

Horizontal "bed" slides are much different than typical 'living space' slides that add width to the coach. Have you thought about a murphy bed model with living room slide? It may give you the space you require and keep length and weight down for your tow vehicle?

[jack65]

Originally Posted by busterbrown

Horizontal "bed" slides are much different than typical 'living space' slides that add width to the coach. Have you thought about a murphy bed model with living room slide? It may give you the space you require and keep length and weight down for your tow vehicle?

Maybe? Just how reliable are those slideouts? Maybe I'll consider another one that slides out in the rear. I was concerned about just how strong they were while traveling (road bumps, corners etc) as it appears the two slideout rails at the top was the only thing keeping it up in my last trailer?

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by jack65

Thanks for that link Logan. BTW, you sent me an PM and I replied back twice, but when I checked my "sent" folder it said I had none??? Did you get it or not... if not, I need to find out why it didn't.

I did get your PM Jack, thank you very much for your response and again I wish you good luck in your trailer quest. Take care!

[Hankster]

We love our 261RBSWE it's max GVW is 7650, loaded for camping its somewhere around 6400.

https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...ravel-trailer/

pulled it across the country in our move heavier than that with almost the same truck as you have.
Mine is a 2015 ram 1500 QC hemi 8 speed w/3.21 gears. All I did was upgrades tires, and put airlift 60818 air springs inside the rear coils. I do have a bunch of towing/truck driving experience, but was still nervous about our trip. After a day or 2 on the road I was really feeling comfortable towing. Because of the move I had several things in the cab, and bed that put me a couple hundred pounds over my 6800 GVWR but the truck handled it like a dream. We did have one oh crap moment while in Arizona due to a really intense just of wind(microburst?) But otherwise it just tends to push you around a bit. Passing semi's at first made me a bit nervous, but that also soon came to to be expected/anticipated.
I wouldn't want to live in any less for Any length of time. We wintered in ours after our house sold for 5 months in an RV park.

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by Hankster

We love our 261RBSWE it's max GVW is 7650, loaded for camping its somewhere around 6400.

https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr...ravel-trailer/

pulled it across the country in our move heavier than that with almost the same truck as you have.
Mine is a 2015 ram 1500 QC hemi 8 speed w/3.21 gears. All I did was upgrades tires, and put airlift 60818 air springs inside the rear coils. I do have a bunch of towing/truck driving experience, but was still nervous about our trip. After a day or 2 on the road I was really feeling comfortable towing. Because of the move I had several things in the cab, and bed that put me a couple hundred pounds over my 6800 GVWR but the truck handled it like a dream. We did have one oh crap moment while in Arizona due to a really intense just of wind(microburst?) But otherwise it just tends to push you around a bit. Passing semi's at first made me a bit nervous, but that also soon came to to be expected/anticipated.
I wouldn't want to live in any less for Any length of time. We wintered in ours after our house sold for 5 months in an RV park.

Sorry, but I have a hard time hearing this advice for someone who is trying to learn the proper way to tow. You say you are towing overweight and it tows like a dream, until you have an “oh crap” moment when the wind manhandles you. What if someone took your advice and was towing overweight and instead of a “microburst” of wind they encounter sustained wind or some other exigent circumstance and they lose control? If you choose to ignore the weight limits when you tow that is your choice but please do not offer that as advice to someone who is seeking the correct information.

Just my opinion, take it for what it is worth.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by Logan X

Sorry, but I have a hard time hearing this advice for someone who is trying to learn the proper way to tow. You say you are towing overweight and it tows like a dream, until you have an “oh crap” moment when the wind manhandles you. What if someone took your advice and was towing overweight and instead of a “microburst” of wind they encounter sustained wind or some other exigent circumstance and they lose control? If you choose to ignore the weight limits when you tow that is your choice but please do not offer that as advice to someone who is seeking the correct information.

Just my opinion, take it for what it is worth.

Hey Logan, How about one of these? There all under 6,000 lbs and at least 26'
https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr.../bullet/specs/

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by jack65

Hey Logan, How about one of these? There all under 6,000 lbs and at least 26'
https://www.keystonerv.com/travel-tr.../bullet/specs/

I would agree with others that have suggested 6000 lbs max for the trailer and I personally wouldn’t tow anything over 26 feet with a half ton truck.