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Old 11-01-2018, 06:05 AM   #1
jacketslacker
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Incline parking questions

So this is probably a stupid question, but I'm going to ask anyways. Our driveway and street are both inclines, so no matter what I do I'll be parking on a hill. If I get the trailer and park it the day before we plan to leave and have to go to work, the trailer would need to be disconnected from my truck. The idea gives me heartburn. I have single axle and bought some nice big rubber chocks. I've looked up how to park on the incline, and from what I can see it's best to face the tongue downhill and stack-up blocks to raise it up higher to get level. Is this right or am I doing it backwards? Also, is there some way to create a switch that would activate the brakes if I've plugged the trailer up to the house to add a little more support? Or if some ******* decides to remove my chocks. I guess I could find out if the brakes have an e-brake switch and get cable for it or even change them to have it, but I'd prefer to keep costs down a little if I could. I just figured if there's a way to use the 7 way harness it might be worth it. I know there's a hack to turn on the lights on the trailer using the plug and just wanted to see what anyone knew. I'll take any advice I can get thanks.
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Old 11-01-2018, 06:26 AM   #2
chuckster57
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Parking it downhill would be best IMO. There isn’t an “emergency/parking” brake. Applying voltage to the brakes for an extended time could lead to brake failure. Since your trailer is single axle using X chocks isn’t an option you could use something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28020-Sin.../dp/B001UGPEJA

Maybe a bit of work but placed BEHIND the wheels wouldn’t make them so appealing to a grab and go kind of person.
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:22 AM   #3
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Thinking out loud here, but if you place "big rubber chocks" in front of the wheels and disconnect the trailer, the incline will cause the trailer to "move forward against the big rubber chocks" making it impossible to remove them until the trailer is "hitched to a tow vehicle" and pushed backwards (up the incline) to take pressure off the chocks. Anyone "walking by and deciding to do something nefarious" would have to be Superman to have the grip strength to pull the chocks from in front of the tires on a 3500 pound trailer that's pushing against the chocks.

If you're concerned with the incline "not being quite that steep" and not causing the tires to roll against the chocks, then just simply put the tow vehicle in drive and let the transmission pull the trailer forward an inch or so. Then disconnect. You won't be able to pull the chocks. Neither will that "guy looking to do mischief"........
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:00 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Thinking out loud here, but if you place "big rubber chocks" in front of the wheels and disconnect the trailer, the incline will cause the trailer to "move forward against the big rubber chocks" making it impossible to remove them until the trailer is "hitched to a tow vehicle" and pushed backwards (up the incline) to take pressure off the chocks. Anyone "walking by and deciding to do something nefarious" would have to be Superman to have the grip strength to pull the chocks from in front of the tires on a 3500 pound trailer that's pushing against the chocks.
This^
I park on an incline in front of my house every time we prep for and return from a trip. I was concerned at first, Now it's not an issue.

If truly concerned about the chocks disappearing there are wheel chocks that lock to the tire. Not fool proof but more secure than just a lump of rubber. This may add to the security of the trailer itself as well.
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:38 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Thinking out loud here, but if you place "big rubber chocks" in front of the wheels and disconnect the trailer, the incline will cause the trailer to "move forward against the big rubber chocks" making it impossible to remove them until the trailer is "hitched to a tow vehicle" and pushed backwards (up the incline) to take pressure off the chocks. Anyone "walking by and deciding to do something nefarious" would have to be Superman to have the grip strength to pull the chocks from in front of the tires on a 3500 pound trailer that's pushing against the chocks.

If you're concerned with the incline "not being quite that steep" and not causing the tires to roll against the chocks, then just simply put the tow vehicle in drive and let the transmission pull the trailer forward an inch or so. Then disconnect. You won't be able to pull the chocks. Neither will that "guy looking to do mischief"........



That's very true, it's a good enough incline that it'll hold a chock really well. That's true you would definitely need to pull really hard.



Just to clarify, the tongue should be pointing down hill, right?
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:39 AM   #6
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Yeah, we point the tongue downhill. Ours is the same trailer (2017 model) and we also have a relatively steep driveway. We chock it, put a few 2x6 pieces under the jack, unhitch and jack it level, drop the rear stabilizers without blocks since they almost touch the driveway, then put five or six 2x6 blocks under the front stabilizers. I stack the blocks so they look like they "lean" slightly toward the house but they are actually vertical from the side.

Looks kinda goofy but it's rock solid inside and out. Usually leave it like that during the week or two between trips since I think we're technically not supposed to park in the street for more than one night. Ideally, I would like to install a flat gravel pad but there really isn't a good spot and I can never figure out our city ordinances.
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Old 11-01-2018, 09:11 AM   #7
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[QUOTE=jacketslacker;313762]That's very true, it's a good enough incline that it'll hold a chock really well. That's true you would definitely need to pull really hard.



Just to clarify, the tongue should be pointing down hill, right?[/QUOTE]

From a "purely physics" perspective, it doesn't matter whether the tongue is on the uphill or downhill end of the trailer. From a practical perspective, the "need to level" the trailer, you can only lower the tongue a specific amount, so if you park with the tongue "uphill" you may not be able to level the trailer by lowering the tongue enough..... Parking with the tongue on the "downhill" end, you can stack blocks under the tongue to gain additional capacity to level the trailer.....

Something to consider is what you put under the tongue. If you use 2x6 blocks and stack them on top of each other, you'll reach a point where they will become unsteady. This is especially true if the pieces of 2x6 are stacked "cross-ways" to the potential travel direction of the trailer. If you're going to use 2x6 or 2x8 "blocks", then cut them 12" to 18" long and position them in the direction of trailer travel. That way if the tongue "pushes" against them, the blocks are less likely to "roll"..... If it were me, I'd build a special block of "stacked 2x12 pine" and nail the pieces together so they are "essentially one unit, 12x12" with the top piece drilled so the tongue jack sits down in the hole. Keep that "chock" in the garage and use it especially for when you're parked in the driveway. That way you significantly lessen the potential that the tongue jack will "push itself off the blocks" if the trailer should happen to get bumped by a car parking next to it or an "uncanny wind" blowing against the trailer, causing it to rock.... Yeah, I know, very unlikely to happen, but how many accidents are ever "planned" ????
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Old 11-01-2018, 10:13 AM   #8
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I was definitely going to be padding up the jack. I was thinking of using the Lynx levelers we got and the block they have for putting the jack into it so it doesn't slide out. Using several scraps of wood I've got laying around and screwing together to make a super chock for the tongue actually sounds like a better idea. I like it and it's cheaper than buying more crap. I appreciate all the info and knowledge you're all sharing.
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Old 11-01-2018, 02:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jacketslacker View Post
I was definitely going to be padding up the jack. I was thinking of using the Lynx levelers we got and the block they have for putting the jack into it so it doesn't slide out. Using several scraps of wood I've got laying around and screwing together to make a super chock for the tongue actually sounds like a better idea. I like it and it's cheaper than buying more crap. I appreciate all the info and knowledge you're all sharing.
I use two patio interlocking paving stones stacked under the jack which give me an additional 8 inches or so with the tounge jack probably 80 down. I use my lynx levelers under the corner jacks mostly under the front as the back jacks are almost on the ground anyway. I still put one down under the rear one to keep the metal off the cement. I do as noted above I place my chocks and drive the trailer forward a little so they cannot be pulled out. Mine is dual axle and I use X-chocks as well with a padlock on them so they cannot be messed with. I have been doing this for going on 8 years at this house with no issue.
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Old 11-01-2018, 03:35 PM   #10
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Here's our trailer parked in our sloped driveway. There are rubber chocks in front of all four wheels and the tongue jack is raised to where the trailer is level. I've left it like this between camping trips without any issues and I'm more comfortable with the jack foot on concrete as opposed to stacking something underneath that could shift. When it's time to go again I drop the tongue on the hitch ball, flip the latch, then back up the driveway just a bit to remove the wheel chocks. For longer term storage I drop the scissor jacks to stabilize the trailer against winter storm winds. At all times I keep a lock on the trailer tongue and have been known to padlock the safety chains around the frame so they can't possibly be attached to a hitch.
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