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Old 07-16-2019, 12:31 PM   #1
kcamp99186
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Maxxfan Installation

I managed to replace my bathroom vent fan with a new Maxxfan Deluxe yesterday. I have 2 more to go. One in the kitchen where I believe I can get 12 volts easily and one in the bedroom. Does anyone know if I can get 12 volts from the antennae booster? Thanks!
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Old 07-16-2019, 12:39 PM   #2
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I would not recommend tapping the antenna booster wiring to obtain power for a fan for two reasons:

First, if you tap into that line, you may introduce interference into your antenna system. Trying to watch TV in an RV is bad enough without adding interference to the OTA signal.

Second, if you tap into that line, then you'll only have power when the antenna booster is turned on. That means you can't use the fan when connected to cable or a satellite receiver as the antenna booster power must be turned off to receive cable or satellite reception.

I'd suggest looking for power from the bedroom overhead 12 volt light fixtures. There should be one "fairly close" to the vent where you'll be installing the fan. If it's switched by a wall switch, then you'll need to make the decision whether to leave the wall switch on when the fan is in use and turn the light off at the fixture. If there's no switch on the actual fixture, you might consider changing the fixture to obtain the versatility needed.
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Old 07-16-2019, 12:43 PM   #3
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In our trailer, the bedroom light is managed by iN-Command. The iN-Command system includes a "manual" momentary contact switch on the wall which can be used to manually turn on/off the light.

I mention this because even the wires at the switch likely don't include a 12v power line - as they are just signal lines to the iN-Command module.
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Old 07-16-2019, 12:45 PM   #4
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Thanks for the ideas. I wasn't sure if using the booster power source would interfere or not. I do have some lighting but the switches are under the cabinets over the bed and I'm not sure how to get to them. Guess I'll find out! lol


Thanks again, Ken
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Old 07-16-2019, 12:47 PM   #5
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Thanks, but my camper doesn't have the iN-Command system.
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:01 PM   #6
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Our bathroom fan is near the bedroom vent. When I replaced the cheapo bathroom fan I fished a wire through the ceiling from the bedroom vent to the bathroom 12v source. Not much room between the ceiling and the roof plus insulation but it worked pretty well for me. Neither fan uses a wall switch, just the switch on the fan.
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Old 07-16-2019, 05:53 PM   #7
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My bedroom fan is powered by tapping into the feed at the booster. No issues.
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Old 07-16-2019, 06:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I would not recommend tapping the antenna booster wiring to obtain power for a fan for two reasons:



First, if you tap into that line, you may introduce interference into your antenna system. Trying to watch TV in an RV is bad enough without adding interference to the OTA signal.



Second, if you tap into that line, then you'll only have power when the antenna booster is turned on.

I think your mistaken, the 12V Power to the booster is constant on. The button nearly applies power the the circuit board behind the plate.
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:27 PM   #9
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Tap into the 12v going to the booster. That is how I got 12v for the thermostat I added to the bedroom a/c. If you remove the plate you most likely will find a 12v wire spliced from the source with a lead going to the booster and another continuing on to power other items.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:15 PM   #10
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Second, if you tap into that line, then you'll only have power when the antenna booster is turned on.
Only if you tap into the wrong side of the switch!
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:02 AM   #11
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I hope it works well for you which ever power source you use.... Having an operable fan and watching TV is the desired end result.....

Remember that the OP has a 2015 trailer with the WineGard antenna (booster in the head) not the new "in-command KeyTV" system.... So, they aren't wired or powered the same.....
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:54 PM   #12
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Thanks chuckster57. That was my first thought but I wasn't positive it was a good idea. We don't use the booster often relying instead on a satellite dish.
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:57 PM   #13
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Thanks Canonman. Never thought of running it from there. Good idea. I think I'll try the booster first. Its closer.
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:58 PM   #14
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Thanks to you all. Appreciate all the advice offered.

Ken
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:13 AM   #15
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The booster in mine is powered always. Also, your unlikely to “introduce” interference, pulling power before the booster, other than to reduce available amperage to the booster. The fan motor most likely has a diode built in, (kind of necessary for a DC motor), that would prevent signal backfeed. If not one could be added for under $5. Any interference would most likely be caused by RFI created when the fan is on and picked up by the antennae.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:39 AM   #16
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My RV has two Max fans, one in the kitchen and one in the back bath. But my front bath has the cheapo screw up cover but has power to it. However, the two Max fans in my RV have wall mounted controls to turn them on and open the covers. They close and go off when it rains. So I like these fans, but if I wanted to retrofit one in my front bath, how would I fish a wire down the wall for a wall switch? Don't really know what is inside interior walls!
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:03 AM   #17
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When you install your kitchen fan, be careful of which circuit to which you connect. In our Keystone Montana 3820FK, the factory installation of the fan connects to the same 12vdc circuit that runs the DC side of the refrigerator. If we run the fan on High, the refrigerator sees the voltage drop and turns itself off. It sometimes happens on Medium speed as well, if we start it on Medium and it runs the fan and the motor to raise the vent at the same time. So we always need to check the refrigerator after turning on the fan.

This is a design issue, since I've tried this on other 3820FK RVs and they all do the same thing. I reported this to Keystone while we were still under warranty... they did nothing about it.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:10 AM   #18
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It's probably a momentary transient as the motor is first starting. You may be able to get around this by installing a electrolytic capacitor near the 12v connection on the fridge. Probably wouldn't have to be that big. I would try a 470uF - unless someone else can think of a reason this would be bad?
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:21 AM   #19
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I thought that as well. So I always start the fan on Low, then increase the speed after startup. No difference. If I move it from Low to Medium to High, eventually the refrigerator ALWAYS turns itself off after the fan gets to High... sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few minutes. Strange.
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Old 07-25-2019, 09:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moodman View Post
My RV has two Max fans, one in the kitchen and one in the back bath. But my front bath has the cheapo screw up cover but has power to it. However, the two Max fans in my RV have wall mounted controls to turn them on and open the covers. They close and go off when it rains. So I like these fans, but if I wanted to retrofit one in my front bath, how would I fish a wire down the wall for a wall switch? Don't really know what is inside interior walls!
The question confuses me. I'm more familiar with the Fantastic Fan models than the Maxxfan, and on those, the rain-close feature is specific to the fan model, not to a wall switch. Are you sure you can't just wire up the right model fan and it will all work through whatever controls are available (either local on the unit or via a hand remote, whichever you buy)?
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