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Old 11-04-2012, 10:47 AM   #21
KJcachers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happytrails View Post
****
I tried using mine again and this time I noticed water dripping out from under my camper. It was leaking into the camper from the connection just inside the camper which is under the sink in the bathroom. After soaking up all the water I could I decided to just never use it again. I had let it run for nearly an hour! and when I hooked up my flush attachment I got a WHOLE LOT MORE out of the tank still.
I have the same issue on my Bullet 246rbs. Didn't use a pressure regulator on the house water So maybe my pressure was too high?



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Old 11-05-2012, 05:36 AM   #22
Scott G
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I have a 2013 28 sgs Cougar and the flush didn't work. I found the line was kinked during assembly. Cut out the kink and put in an elbow and it works great now.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:53 AM   #23
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Yes Steve, that's the same with my Cougar, the toilet drain is not a straight shot down to the tank, as it was with my old trailer. A wand would not work. If the Cougar wasn't already equipped with the flush system, I would consider adding one.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:48 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJcachers View Post
I have the same issue on my Bullet 246rbs. Didn't use a pressure regulator on the house water So maybe my pressure was too high?



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That's a good point. I don't think I was using the pressure regulator either. I may have to try it again to see if it still leaks. If it does I'll probably fix it even though I probably won't ever use it again just to make sure if I ever sell it that it won't leak on the buyer/dealer and bring down the resale.

Thanks for the tip!
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:41 PM   #25
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Black Tank Flush Concern...(Important Question)

Hi everyone. I do have a questiuon in here, but let me tell you the story first...I have a 2013 Bullet Premier TT with the Black Tank Flush feature...I know the tank valves must be in the "open" position to allow the tank to flush when the water is on and the tank is flushing. However, last week, somehow the tank valve was NOT open and we notices that some water was spurting out from the roof...we thought this was some overflow from the A/C condensation? But after a minute, we realized the tank flush was on, and the valves were closed!!! I ran over and opened the valves and turned off the water...I checked everything out for any water damage inside and out of the TT, but didn't notice anything...**PLEASE TELL ME THIS WAS SOME SORT OF EMERGENCY OVER-FLOW SYSTEM THAT POTENTIALLY SAVED ME FROM A BUNCH OF PROBLEMS??? I feel crappy that we forgot about the closed valve, but I truley thought it would back up into the "interior" of my TT and be all over floor...Please share anything you might know about this systems "safety" features...Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:31 PM   #26
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You are lucky that you "only feel crappy" rather than "wear crappy"

The black water system is a "closed" system EXCEPT for the dump valve, the toilet valve and the vent stack. With the dump valve closed and the toilet valve closed, when you add water through the flush port, once the "closed tank" is full, the only place for the water to start flowing is out the roof vent stack. Had your holding tank been "somewhat full of poo" that's what would have been flowing onto your roof (sort of "wearing crap").

Thankfully, all your plumbing on the black tank seems to have been "properly assembled and glued in place" at the factory. Occasionally a vent stack or a toilet port are not glued to the tank and the water pressure from a full tank can push the parts away from each other causing a "nasty leak" that will flow out the bottom of the RV. In your case, the components held as they were intended to do and the water (complete with poo) started flowing up the vent stack and out onto the roof.

Luckily, from your description, the tank was at least "somewhat clean" or you would have had a mess (literally) to clean up
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:33 PM   #27
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The tanks are vented via a pipe, called a vent stack, to a covered opening (vent) on the roof. The vent saved you from over pressurizing you tank, and I would guess everything is okay. The vent is really there to allow air in and fumes out as the water/waste levels in the tanks change, but it doubled as a pressure relief in your case.

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Old 10-26-2013, 06:16 PM   #28
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Wow...! Thanks for the info, guys!. This is very much what I thought had happened, I just didn't know for sure, but obviously, the way you guys explained it, it all makes sense! I was hoping that vent stack on top was also a doubling as some sort of pressure relief AND that all the components appeared to be assembled properly, otherwise things would've come apart and my mess would have been worse...Thanks for easing my worries about this...Yes, it's best to "feel crappy" and learn through this forum, rather than to "wear crap" and learn by opening a checkbook...
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:34 PM   #29
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You certainly have that right, Kenkaman !!!

Oh, and to the forum. We're glad to have you join us. Hopefully we can all keep our checkbooks in our pocket as we learn together

Have a great day !!!
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:21 AM   #30
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2014 Montana 3100RL. Display monitor was showing black tank 2/3 to full all the time. Finally, this morning, opened the drain valve and turned on flush and let it run for about 1/2 hour. When I shut it off, monitor now reads empty.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:20 AM   #31
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Barbell,

You managed to wash the contaminate off one of your sensors, but don't get "used to" the correct reading. All it takes is one small bit of toilet paper or other "solid/semi-solid" material to lodge in the sensor contacts and you'll be right back where you were.

I don't know of anyone who has "conventional tank sensors" and maintains correct readings for any great length of time. We all pretty much learn to ignore the tank status monitor and just judge by time or the way the toilet sounds when flushed to tell when we're getting close to full.

There are a couple of "outside mount" sensor systems that eliminate the problem of "fouled sensors" but they cost more than most of us are willing to pay for a system that we've learned to ignore LOL

If you do a search for "tank sensor" on the forum, you'll get a pretty detailed accounting of what other people have faced and what they do to resolve (or live with) the issue.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:01 PM   #32
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I've used my tank flush three times. Once with the house hose and no regulator, just opened the faucet about a third of the way. Once at the dump station with a regulator, and once using my outside shower. I think I like using he shower the best. You have the option of using hot water, and you know that the pressure will not exceed the safe operating pressure of the check valve.

I just wish my flush fitting was on the same side of the trailer as the shower.
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:25 AM   #33
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Thanks for the responses guys (and gals?). So I got up the woods and dropped my coroplast bellypan and here's what I found. The Black and Grey tanks are really basically "pans" with a perimeter flange and a flat top glued (I assume) to the top. The flanges rest on a welded center cross member and an outer cross member that is bolted so it can be removed and thus the tank can be removed. I found that a section of the top had been separated from the pan/tank from the pressure of the water which actually did break the glued or welded seal between the top and the pan/tank. I was able to clean the two surfaces and lift the top enough to squeeze an ample amount of RTV into the joint, then I drilled a couple of holes in the tank flange and drove in two self tapping screws which pulled the top down to the tank flange tightly, squeezing out most of the RTV. I then applied more RTV to the edges of the joint and it appears to be fixed. I would have used ABS cement if I'd done this repair at home but I can always redo the repair with cement if the RTV doesn't hold long term which I'm not anticipating. What I don't understand is why the water didn't just come out of the vent? With the tank vent how did the pressure build to the point that it broke the tank? Anyway I doubt I will repeat this blunder and again, thanks for the responses.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:44 AM   #34
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Had the same issues

Just had mine serviced before the warranty ran out and that was one of the problems that needed fixed went camping same thing so I took out the check valve seemed to take care of it
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:54 AM   #35
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Check valve

has to come out
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Old 09-01-2018, 06:54 AM   #36
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What exactly is the 45 degree flush you are using. How do I look this up so I can purchase. Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2018, 08:15 AM   #37
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This 45! Pick up at Wal-Mart or any rv supply store.
There's also one that has a water hose fitting on it to rinse with called a Hydro Flush, just be sure to use a dedicated hose, NOT the hose used for drinking water.
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