How to Properly Lift a trailer to replace all four tires

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by geeman

I leave it hooked to the truck for stability. Then build a square box block up with 4x4s on each side behind the wheels and then jack to the frame from there. Block it when you get to the height you want. Did my wet shackle kit this way too.

Great, but the OP wants to run tires to shop to have mounted, yep just toss them in the back seat of the Lexus!

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Bigt47

New to RVing, well been doing it for a couple three years now. My question is how to properly lift/jack up a travel trailer so all four tires can be replaced at one time. I have a Keystone Ultra Lite Bullet 21 ft trailer with tandem axles. I know that the tires do not last forever and need to be replaced. Just trying to get ahead of the game so when the time comes I can do it correctly. Any help is much appreciated.

Well your TT isn't all that heavy so lifting is not too involved, car sized jack stands will support it easily. When lifting to work on suspension or remove tires (all) it is best to lift by the frame. I like to keep the supports as near the axles as reasonable. while I have several jack stands, none are tall enough to support the frame of our 5er high enough to get tires off.
I simply go to HD and buy cheap 2X4's some like 4X4's, but 2X4's are about 1/3 the cost of 4X4's. I cut these into 1' lengths to build cribbing. I have lifted and supported our 12,300# 5er safely using this method.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by bbells

IMHO, jacking it up by using the axle is a big mistake. I did this and it put the trailer wheels out of alignment. It appears to bend the axle enough to cause problems.

You need to lift at the spring, otherwise you most likely will change the alignment. If you lifted at the spring mount, you didn't cause the issue, because if you did, your axles will bend like noodles the first bump in the road you hit. If placed like in the last picture, no stress on the axle.

Getting ready to lift 5er with four 3 ton floor jacks at Discount Tire.



Lifted all tires off waiting for new to be mounted and balanced.



Correct placement of the jack for lifting by axle.

[Gunny Mike]

Thanks for the pics!

[B&T_NF-NY]

Hi, I'm in the same boat. I will be replacing the tires this season (lr C to D) and was told never to lift by the axles. Is it ok to lift at the shackles or do I need to lift at the frame? We have a Springdale summerland 2200mb (about 5700 lbs). Thanks for any help.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by B&T_NF-NY

Hi, I'm in the same boat. I will be replacing the tires this season (lr C to D) and was told never to lift by the axles. Is it ok to lift at the shackles or do I need to lift at the frame? We have a Springdale summerland 2200mb (about 5700 lbs). Thanks for any help.

Lifting at the "SHACKLES" is not recommended. They are the small flat strips of metal that connect the springs to the spring hangers and are located up next to the chassis rails.

Lifting at the axle "U BOLTS" is perfectly OK. Just remember NOT TO LIFT ON THE AXLE TUBE but with the jack pad contacting the U Bolts. If you think about it, the U Bolts support the entire trailer weight "at the axle tube" and during towing are subjected to many times more force than you'll ever see in a "static axle jacking event".

Here is a photo of what the shackles look like (at the equalizer) and a photo of two ways to jack a trailer and also how to use jack stands near the axles.

[notanlines]

Lift by whatever method deem satisfactory. Frame if you're willing to rig the frame that high, or like John and others have said, to lift at the u-bolts. But never, NEVER use a cinder (cement/concrete) block as was offered earlier. And don't hand us this crap of "I've done it and my daddy did it and his....." You get my drift. It is simply a disaster waiting to happen.

[ctbruce]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Lift by whatever method deem satisfactory. Frame if you're willing to rig the frame that high, or like John and others have said, to lift at the u-bolts. But never, NEVER use a cinder (cement/concrete) block as was offered earlier. And don't hand us this crap of "I've done it and my daddy did it and his....." You get my drift. It is simply a disaster waiting to happen.

There is a technical term for this. Its called "Darwin Award Winner". Its given yearly to the human who finds the most creative way of eliminating his stupid gene from the human genome.

You'd think the award would be self-limiting, alas this is not the case.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Lift by whatever method deem satisfactory. Frame if you're willing to rig the frame that high, or like John and others have said, to lift at the u-bolts. But never, NEVER use a cinder (cement/concrete) block as was offered earlier. And don't hand us this crap of "I've done it and my daddy did it and his....." You get my drift. It is simply a disaster waiting to happen.

When I was around 14 yrs old my father had the old '55 Ford Crown Vic jacked up on a cinder block. I went out when I hear him yelling because the block crumbled and he was pinned under the front of the car. Thankfully the ground was soft and you could see his outline depressed into it. I got to drive him to the doctor's office close by and he had 5 broken ribs (back then the doctor had an xray machine in is office and the term "imaging center" had not been invented yet).

He never used a block after that.

[Gobirds38]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Lifting at the "SHACKLES" is not recommended. They are the small flat strips of metal that connect the springs to the spring hangers and are located up next to the chassis rails.

Lifting at the axle "U BOLTS" is perfectly OK. Just remember NOT TO LIFT ON THE AXLE TUBE but with the jack pad contacting the U Bolts. If you think about it, the U Bolts support the entire trailer weight "at the axle tube" and during towing are subjected to many times more force than you'll ever see in a "static axle jacking event".

Here is a photo of what the shackles look like (at the equalizer) and a photo of two ways to jack a trailer and also how to use jack stands near the axles.

Thanks John, a picture is worth a thousand words...

[B&T_NF-NY]

Thanks so much. I think I have a good concept of how to do it now. Thinking of carlisles for tires. Any and all thoughts are very appreciated.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by B&T_NF-NY

Thanks so much. I think I have a good concept of how to do it now. Thinking of carlisles for tires. Any and all thoughts are very appreciated.

I change my trailer tires every 5 years. I'm on my second set of Carlisle ST225 75R15 LRE tires. The first set was Radial Trail RH which were discontinued. The new ones are Radial Trail HD, which IMHO, seems to be an even heavier, more durable tire. I've not had any issues with Carlisle tires, but they did have a "questionable reputation 15-20 years ago"... That said, in the past 10 years, I've not heard any negative comments from people who are using them. All the "bad stuff" that I've read recently has been posted by people who "will never buy Carlisle's again because back in 1970, I had 2 blowouts and ….." So, the negatives I've seen are from people who "are remembering what used to be"...

Currently, WalMart has the best pricing on Carlisle ST tires that I can find. You can buy Radial Trail HD tires for the same price or cheaper than Trailer Kings. Quite the bargain when compared to Goodyear Endurance that is roughly 50% more per tire.

[Big1]

I use my lego blocks to lift one tire up so I can change the flat.