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Old 01-30-2015, 07:10 AM   #21
Desert185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major105bc View Post
Does anyone load or unload with the trailer unhooked from the truck? Sorry for the stupid question.
I load and unload a Yamaha Grizzly 660 or a BMW GS with the 326SRX unhitched from the truck on a regular basis. The wheels are chocked and the rear stab jacks are down. FWIW, the generic, Keystone manual says not to do it, but I haven't found any problems in my case. If there is no restriction in hitching or unhitching with the garage loaded, I figure the minimal weight shift when loading or unloading isn't going to create a problem. YMMV, however...

No crease in the ramp so far.
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Old 01-30-2015, 08:00 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by LittleJoe View Post
B Daniel
If you are riding up ramp at speed that will do it. If crawling slowly up it should not happen
Hi LittleJob,

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. What are you saying should not happen? The crease?

Bobby
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Old 02-06-2015, 06:12 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by LittleJoe View Post
B Daniel
If you are riding up ramp at speed that will do it. If crawling slowly up it should not happen

I have to respectfully disagree with you statement because even crawling up the ramp with a heavy bike will do that and only an idiot would try it otherwise. Take it from me, mine has been changed 3 times for that because the door IS NOT built to handle that weight in the center of the ramp. See my post about the New ramp door on a 301 and that will explain a lot. http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=19488

Their only suggestion is to load on one side or the other to avoid riding on the center where the two sections of decking come together. Im going to try that next time I load it. My only concern there is not having the weight of my Goldwing centered in the garage.
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:52 PM   #24
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The ramp is not very wide. Going up the center is about the only option. There is a label on the side and I don't remember the numbers but the Goldwing does not overload the ramp.

It says something like 1500 pounds with a single point contact load of 1000lbs. Again I don't remember the exact numbers but there is plenty of rated capacity with the Goldwing.

And I certainly go slow up the ramp but speed would not be a factor anyway. The creased panel is always at a less steep angle than the fold out panel. If speed is a factor the first panel would fail.

Bobby
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Old 02-07-2015, 03:01 PM   #25
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The tag actually says "Maximum Capacity 3000 lb in the ramp position with the load evenly distributed". "Maximum 1000 lb per wheel contact". I had this argument with Keystone and Lippert who is the manufacture of the door. They went as far as to say that my Goldwing actually overloads the door because there are only 2 contact points and are set close together. My question to them was why is that not specified in any of the literature that came with the trailer. They said that maybe it would be in the future. It was not a pleasant conversation by no means. The center joint on my last door was 2 1/2 inches off center so it wasn't even supported by the center structure. Regardless, in order to extend the life of your door I suggest that you stay off the center line.
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:26 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Desert185 View Post
I load and unload a Yamaha Grizzly 660 or a BMW GS with the 326SRX unhitched from the truck on a regular basis. The wheels are chocked and the rear stab jacks are down.
Desert185 this is the reason you can do it without problems. The wheels chocked and rear stabs down give you the support. Granted the toys you are loading are really no big deal. A larger toy unhitched and supported could be a different story but not a door problem.
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Old 02-08-2015, 01:40 PM   #27
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Desert185 this is the reason you can do it without problems. The wheels chocked and rear stabs down give you the support. Granted the toys you are loading are really no big deal. A larger toy unhitched and supported could be a different story but not a door problem.
My thought is if one loads the garage within the load limits specified by Keystone, there will always be enough kingpin weight to prevent the trailer from falling on its rear bumper whether the trailer sits in place loaded and unhitched or in the process of being load or unloaded while unhitched.

The wording in the generic Keystone manual outlining loading and unloading while hitched is company lawyer-speak for CYA Keystone...in my lay opinion, anyway.

Having said that, chocking the wheels and lowering the rear stab jacks make sense even though three or four of us (another ~800#) have walked around the garage while loaded and unhitched without any tipping of the trailer. The arm length from the wheels to the landing gear is longer than the arm length from the wheels to the rear bumper, so it would take a heck of a lot more weight to tip the trailer.
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:14 PM   #28
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Desert agreed on the lawyer stuff......

I have a bumper pull and it just would kill the tongue jack. I have seen countless car trailers pointing to the sky that were not hooked up or rear supported. I have had to repair equipment trailers that did not have support jacks down and still attached.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:04 PM   #29
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Hi LittleJob,

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. What are you saying should not happen? The crease?

Bobby
Yes the crease should not happen if the load is gently applied (so to speak) rather than riding up at speed. I have seen several do it this way and it not for me I can tell you that,

If the door is creasing under a weight lower than what it is rated for then obviously the rating is wrong and you should not be considered at fault.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:11 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Big Boy w/ Big Toys View Post
Desert agreed on the lawyer stuff......

I have a bumper pull and it just would kill the tongue jack. I have seen countless car trailers pointing to the sky that were not hooked up or rear supported. I have had to repair equipment trailers that did not have support jacks down and still attached.
Yep...with my car hauler I always hook it up before loading. Different animal.
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:33 AM   #31
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I loaded my Heritage springer a couple weeks ago. Ramp is to steep for it because of the 42" super cholo exhaust. Had to ride up a 2x10 to clear the exhaust from hitting the ground. Haven't tried my ultra yet.
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Old 03-28-2015, 07:51 AM   #32
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"Super Cholo" Thanks. I needed a chuckle this morning.
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:30 AM   #33
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I have a 310 tb with the side door ramp. I have to build the ramp up 17.5" to clear the threshold on level ground. I use 4x4 cribbing for my sizzor jacks anyway so I just needed a 4' 4x4 to support the door. I use a ramp to get onto the door.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-13-2015, 11:27 AM   #34
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I can get both my Sportster 1200 and my quad in with no problems nor another ramp. I think I can get my Electra Glide in as well without the use of an additional ramp, but I haven't tried it yet. I doubt I will ever put the dresser in the back, the little Sporty is easy enough to get in and out alone and it makes a great little campground cruiser.

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Old 08-14-2015, 06:53 AM   #35
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I have the same issues with my toy hauler ramp. My trailer does not have the dovetail at the entrance. The bike will not make the transition from the ramp into the trailer without getting stuck. Even if I adjust the bikes suspension to its highest setting it still gets stuck. I have to do cheetah flips to get the bike loaded into the trailer. I raise the tongue jack to its highest setting. I put down the rear stabilizer jacks for safety. I have two car ramps that I place close together under the rear lip of the ramp. I then put a piece of plywood on top of the car ramps. I don't think I could load my bike this way if I did not have a condor wheel chock. The trailer is at such a steep angle that without the wheel chock holding the bike in place and upright while I get the front straps secured to the bike loading this way without help would be near impossible.

I also have noticed a crease developing in my ramp door and I move very slowly while loading and unloading. For a ramp door that is meant for loading vehicles this is crap. There are several folks that have had this issue from what I have read on this forum. This is my biggest issue with my trailer. I hope to upgrade to a newer model Keystone 5th wheel with the dovetail entrance in the garage. I will load my bike in the new trailer before signing the paperwork to ensure that I do not continue to have this problem.

This may offend some but the build quality of these trailers are crap for what a new one cost. I think this applies to most brands not just Keystone. I like Keystone for the floorplans and amenities, so therefor I am a Keystone buyer. I enjoy this forum for the tips. modifications and lessons learned.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:32 AM   #36
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I can get both my Sportster 1200 and my quad in with no problems nor another ramp. I think I can get my Electra Glide in as well without the use of an additional ramp, but I haven't tried it yet. I doubt I will ever put the dresser in the back, the little Sporty is easy enough to get in and out alone and it makes a great little campground cruiser.

I need to try that but ill be loading a RG . I use a aluminum 4 ft by 6 folding ramp about half the length of the door and hook the straps to the hinges that way it cant kick out coming down. I also start the RG and use first gear for the brake.
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