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Old 08-28-2017, 12:56 PM   #1
LFord
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Passport 199ML - Rough Vent Opening

I sent the message below to Customer Support at Keystone, and got the usual "take it to a dealer" response; the selling dealer is some 500 miles away and the nearest Keystone dealer is at least a two-hour tow from my home, so here goes:

My 2016 199ML has a ceiling/roof vent above the kitchen area which has a manual opening vent lid, but no fan. I was thinking of installing something like a Fantastic Fan or MaxxAir Fan, and the local RV shop wanted to know if it is a "standard 14" x 14" vent opening. I measured the vent assembly that is installed now (came from the factory), and the measurement I got was like 13 and 1/4 inches wide and 13 and 1/2 long or close to those dimensions.

Since most replacement vent or fan assemblies seem to state they are for 14 x 14 openings, I am wondering if the actual opening as cut by the factory in the roof and ceiling is 14 inches by 14 inches, and then the vent assembly is put in which obviously takes up some room so what I am measuring is the installed size.

In other words, if I completely removed the vent assembly/trim ring that the factory put in, would I then be left with a 14 x 14 hole in my ceiling/roof?

Thanks,
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:06 PM   #2
JRTJH
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To the best of my knowledge, all Keystone products use "standard 14' x 14" roof vents and all the "holes" are standard sized. There are no "off sized" roof vents on any of the current trailer lines.

The only issue you will have is obtaining 12 VDC power to that opening. There "should be" some 12 volt wiring adjacent to which you can tie in fan power, but there is a possibility that you (or the repairman) will have to fish power from a nearby light or another circuit. If you do that, remember that the ROMEX is 120 VAC and the individual wires are 12 VDC. Don't tie into the wrong kind of wiring, you'll be buying a new fan if you do.....

Good Luck !!!
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Old 08-29-2017, 04:04 AM   #3
Mr30RLI
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Larry

I replaced 2 unpowered vents with Fantastic powered ones and it was a drop in job. Hardest part was removing the sealant from around the roof hole. I stole power for both from nearby circuits but make sure they are unswitched.

Frank
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Old 08-29-2017, 07:20 AM   #4
LFord
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
To the best of my knowledge, all Keystone products use "standard 14' x 14" roof vents and all the "holes" are standard sized. There are no "off sized" roof vents on any of the current trailer lines.

The only issue you will have is obtaining 12 VDC power to that opening. There "should be" some 12 volt wiring adjacent to which you can tie in fan power, but there is a possibility that you (or the repairman) will have to fish power from a nearby light or another circuit. If you do that, remember that the ROMEX is 120 VAC and the individual wires are 12 VDC. Don't tie into the wrong kind of wiring, you'll be buying a new fan if you do.....

Good Luck !!!
There is a 12VDC ceiling light that is "nearby" but it is switched as part of the interior light switch, so probably not a good choice for power source. What is a good source of "unswitched" 12VDC power on the interior of the Passports?

Thanks,
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2016 Passport Ultra Lite Express 199ML
2013 Ford F-150 XLT Supercab, 3.5L V6 ecoBoost (turbo), 3.15 RAR, 8600 lbs. Tow Capacity, Equalizer WDH
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Old 08-29-2017, 07:35 AM   #5
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If the light that's nearby is switched, it's not a good option for tapping power. From the floorplan, it looks like there is a powered vent in the bathroom, about 4 or 5 feet aft of the kitchen vent. I'd opt to fish wires from the bathroom fan circuit and power the kitchen vent fan from that source.
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Old 08-29-2017, 07:35 AM   #6
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Looking at your floor plan, you have a couple of options. The first, and quite possibly easiest is to "fish tape" over to the adjacent overhead cabinet above the TV. From the two photos I've seen, it looks like you can grab power from the underside LED light or TV antenna booster.

A second options would be to feed your tape (or wire coat hanger) over to the microwave and exhaust fan. You can remove the microwave and will have access to 12 volt power that is supplied to the fan and light. That's the method I used when wiring my Bullet. I did have to cut a small hole in the ceiling material above the microwave. After I ran the wire, I repaired the hole and reinstalled the microwave. The microwave covers that space so no one will ever see it.

One of these options should work for you. Good luck.
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Old 09-06-2017, 02:30 PM   #7
LFord
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
Looking at your floor plan, you have a couple of options. The first, and quite possibly easiest is to "fish tape" over to the adjacent overhead cabinet above the TV. From the two photos I've seen, it looks like you can grab power from the underside LED light or TV antenna booster.

A second options would be to feed your tape (or wire coat hanger) over to the microwave and exhaust fan. You can remove the microwave and will have access to 12 volt power that is supplied to the fan and light. That's the method I used when wiring my Bullet. I did have to cut a small hole in the ceiling material above the microwave. After I ran the wire, I repaired the hole and reinstalled the microwave. The microwave covers that space so no one will ever see it.

One of these options should work for you. Good luck.
Definitely good tips! Thanks!
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2016 Passport Ultra Lite Express 199ML
2013 Ford F-150 XLT Supercab, 3.5L V6 ecoBoost (turbo), 3.15 RAR, 8600 lbs. Tow Capacity, Equalizer WDH
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