No water from any hot water tap

[daldous]

My 2011 Alpine 3450 has been sitting for a few weeks. When I set it up to check out everything for summer, I found cold water taps work fine but no hot (or cold) water at any hot water tap!

In fact, no water at all at hot water taps (except when I use the hot water tank bypass which seems to route cold water to the hot water tap!)

Yes, the gas hot water heater works fine and there seems to be hot water in the tank.

Is there a thermostatic valve after the hot water tank? If so, it may have quit.

[Festus2]

I am assuming that when you winterized your unit, you drained the water from the HW tank, turned the bypass valve to prevent any water from entering the tank, and then went about running RV antifreeze through your lines.
When you dewinterized it, filled the tank, you must have turned the HW bypass valve to the open position - otherwise, you would not have any water in your tank which you say is now filled. You can check to see if there is any water in the tank by opening the pressure release valve or slowly back off the HW drain plug slightly.
It does seem strange that you would get no water at all coming out of any of your HW taps. Does it sound like you have air in the lines? Do you get no water on both city hookup and when using the water pump only?

[daldous]

Hi, thanks for the quick answer!

I live in Sacramento (mild climate) where it rarely gets below 32 degrees. To "winterize" here means: opening the low point drains and cracking all interior valves a little bit. That's it!

Now, with the low point drains closed, city water hooked up and hot water heater on, I get no water from any hot water valve. Cold works fine.

[DocData757]

What happens when you open the relief valve? (Be careful and don't get burned. Also, don't spray water over the select connections to the LP Gas valve.) If there's nothing coming out (under pressuere) then there's no water getting into the HW Heater tank.

As I recall, there should be 3 valves on the HW Heater... water to the heater, water from the heater and a bypass between them. The bypass should be closed and the other 2 open for normal operations. It is possible that one or more of those valves have failed and even though you 'open' them, the valve seat may have come off the stem and is stuck shut.

[hankaye]

daldous, Howdy;

One other cause 'may' be the check valve comming out of the HOT (upper), side.
That's if you have one of the single Manual valve winterization systems....
Could have corroded shut or just 'failed'.

hankaye

[daldous]

Originally Posted by DocData757

What happens when you open the relief valve? (Be careful and don't get burned. Also, don't spray water over the select connections to the LP Gas valve.) If there's nothing coming out (under pressuere) then there's no water getting into the HW Heater tank.

As I recall, there should be 3 valves on the HW Heater... water to the heater, water from the heater and a bypass between them. The bypass should be closed and the other 2 open for normal operations. It is possible that one or more of those valves have failed and even though you 'open' them, the valve seat may have come off the stem and is stuck shut.

Good info, thanks!

I checked the pressure relief and the (warm not hot) water seemed to have a lot of pressure, much more than expected. (Could be the pressure relief valve is faulty!!) So, I slowly removed the drain/anodized core plug, which also indicated more than expected pressure; a tiny stream of water was shooting about 10 feet. I continued to slowly remove the drain until it came loose all at once, shot about 20 feet and hit the wall of my house with an absolute geyser of warm water that soaked me from head to toe! Luckily, I stood to one side. After refilling with cold water, same problem!

I have to remove contents of the basement so I can remove the basement wall to reveal the rear of the WH and check the valves. More to follow.

Do you know anything about the keyless entry system? I get no lights and suspect no power to it but (??) not much in the book about it.

Thanks

[Festus2]

Ooops! Sorry to hear about your soaking. Had the same thing happen - once - and learned from that to back the drain plug off very slowly to a point where water is slowly coming out of the drain. At this point, you can let the tank drain slowly while you have a beer (or two) or give it another quick turn or two and then run like h---.
You shouldn't have to remove walls or tear your RV apart to gain access to the HW tank bypass valves. Not sure about the layout of your unit, but they are often located directly behind the tank (on the inside obviously) and are probably behind a removeable panel of some sort.
Sorry, can't provide you with any info on the keyless entry system. We have one of those old, plain models ('08) that use an old, plain key to get in. Many others who have this keyless entry system are also initially confused about how it works. Try doing a forum search --- type in "keyless entry" and see what you get as there have been several posts asking the same question you did.

[hankpage]

From the way you describe your winterizing method you do not empty your water heater. If you do not the chemical reaction between the anode rod and the tank can cause high pressure if a faucet is not left open. Scale or pieces of the anode could be blocking the check-valve or outlet of the heater. I'm glad you did not get injured or scalded when you removed the anode. Be sure the T&P valve is closed before refilling the tank, they are designed to leave an air gap in the tank to allow for expansion. Behind the screen in the city water inlet there is a check valve that will relieve all pressure in the system. Push in on it very gently it is only plastic and fragile.
You can buy a tool at any RV supply to flush out your water heater and hopefully that will dislodge the clog. If not you may have to remove the outlet to clear it. Your heater most likely has only one bypass valve but the inlet and outlet should be the same. The outlet is on top. .... Hope this helps, Hank

[daldous]

Originally Posted by hankaye

daldous, Howdy;

One other cause 'may' be the check valve comming out of the HOT (upper), side.
That's if you have one of the single Manual valve winterization systems....
Could have corroded shut or just 'failed'.

hankaye

Howdy to Hankaye - you nailed it - the checkvalve was totally corroded shut.

My first trip in the 5th was to AZ for 6 weeks last Feb. The water is terrible there and since I didn't drain the HW tank last March, it had a chance to really corrode! I couldn't even get a small screwdrver thru the hole! It was sealed!

The bad news is that I broke the pointy plastic part of the check valve while cleaning it. Now there is just a small 1/4" hole where it used to be. It is hooked back up and seems to work now but I wonder if more trouble is ahead without the check valve!?

I suppose I'll have to replace it! What do you think?

Thanks to all for the help!

[Johnnyfry]

I would carefully check out the bypass valve. Although it allowed water to enter the HW tank, it might not have been fully activated, that is, it might not have been turned far enough to open the flow to the HW pipes.

IMHO,
John

[daldous]

Originally Posted by hankpage

From the way you describe your winterizing method you do not empty your water heater. If you do not the chemical reaction between the anode rod and the tank can cause high pressure if a faucet is not left open. Scale or pieces of the anode could be blocking the check-valve or outlet of the heater. I'm glad you did not get injured or scalded when you removed the anode. Be sure the T&P valve is closed before refilling the tank, they are designed to leave an air gap in the tank to allow for expansion. Behind the screen in the city water inlet there is a check valve that will relieve all pressure in the system. Push in on it very gently it is only plastic and fragile.
You can buy a tool at any RV supply to flush out your water heater and hopefully that will dislodge the clog. If not you may have to remove the outlet to clear it. Your heater most likely has only one bypass valve but the inlet and outlet should be the same. The outlet is on top. .... Hope this helps, Hank

Great info Hank! I didn't know most of this! It seems to be what happened; i.e. the pressure build up, the check valve corrosion etc. It's nice to have so many sources of knowledge in this forum! Thaks, I appreciate it! Should I replace the check valve? (see my reply to Hankaye)

On the keyless entry, I talked with a service rep at La Mesa - he said "if you don't get any lights on the keys, pull the unit out (of the side of the coach) and replace the 2032 battery! He said the unit will pull right out!

[hankpage]

Originally Posted by daldous

Should I replace the check valve?

It is necessary for the heater to operate properly on a small heater ( 6 or 10 gal.) I think it should be replaced when you get a chance.

[JRTJH]

You should replace the check valve. Additionally, you said that you removed the anode rod to drain the hot water heater. When you reinstall the anode, be sure to use teflon tape on the threads. If you don't the rod will probably corrode and you'll play heck getting it out next time you need to remove it. Teflon tape is cheap insurance against more than just leaks

[hankaye]

daldous, Howdy;

Glad to offer an idea that helped.
I think it would be prudent to replace the check valve.

I agree with JRTJH's idea of using Teflon tape when re-installing the Drian / Anode. Might buy a spare Anode while you're at the Parts store... They are designed to be eaten up by the corrosive bodies in the water and replacement is required when they get to a certian amount of deteration. If you have a Hot water Heater manual it will show you a (cheesey), picture of what a good rod and a bad rod look like.

Again Glad you found the problem...

hankaye

[daldous]

Originally Posted by hankpage

From the way you describe your winterizing method you do not empty your water heater. If you do not the chemical reaction between the anode rod and the tank can cause high pressure if a faucet is not left open. Scale or pieces of the anode could be blocking the check-valve or outlet of the heater. I'm glad you did not get injured or scalded when you removed the anode. Be sure the T&P valve is closed before refilling the tank, they are designed to leave an air gap in the tank to allow for expansion. Behind the screen in the city water inlet there is a check valve that will relieve all pressure in the system. Push in on it very gently it is only plastic and fragile.
You can buy a tool at any RV supply to flush out your water heater and hopefully that will dislodge the clog. If not you may have to remove the outlet to clear it. Your heater most likely has only one bypass valve but the inlet and outlet should be the same. The outlet is on top. .... Hope this helps, Hank

Great info Hank! I didn't know most of this! It seems to be what happened; i.e. the pressure build up, the check valve corrosion etc. The Check valve was completely corroded shut. I broke it trying to clean it so removed the check assembly completely!Your answer explains the pressure build up I experienced, I'll drain the tank from now on!!

It's nice to have so many sources of knowledge in this forum! Thanks, I appreciate it!

Do you think it's necessary to replace the check valve?

(This reply went on the wrong person's page the first time, so....... trying again!)