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Old 07-02-2018, 02:30 AM   #21
chuckster57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi View Post
I still have one of these from one of my early lives...

https://store.snapon.com/Bearing-Pac...s-P635854.aspx


I have one of those too, but use hand method.
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Old 07-02-2018, 04:20 AM   #22
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With the easy lube system when you push the old grease out of the bearings where does it go? If it doesn't push the seal out, it stays in the hub. Both bad. I agree I've always cleaned and packed by hand. A throw back to my Naval avation days.

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Old 07-02-2018, 04:43 AM   #23
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Wow Chuck mine is a plastic job that cost like $7. I think, stickly my opinion, that the EZ Lube has a bad rep because the majority of users just get out the old air powered grease gun and pulls the trigger until grease hits their toes. Two important points in the directions (I know, I know, we don't need no stink'n directions) states no powered grease guns and rotate the wheel while adding grease. That said, I to am old enough to remember greasing many front wheel bearings frequently. John, I took my driving test in a '60 Falcon, 170 c.i.IL6 with 3 on the tree. With all that said, If I'm going to drag out jacks, stands, etc, crawl under the unit to jack it up then I'm going to take out a few more tools, take some extra time and remove, clean, inspect and pack the bearings. I'd rather trust these old eyes vs greasing blindly and "trusting" it's o.k. YMMV.
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:32 AM   #24
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In theory the EZ Lube is an excellent product.
The spindle is drilled axially to a dimension between the inboard bearing and the grease seal. It is then drilled radially so that the grease will exit between the seal and the inboard bearing. When you pump through the zerk on the end of the spindle, the grease should travel through the spindle, then up between the seal and the inboard bearing. The grease will be forced through the bearing, through the void between the bearings, through the outboard bearing and will be visible to you when it exits the outboard bearing. Slowly rotating the hub should ensure that grease is pushed through all bearing elements.It sounds great but in practice may, or may not, work.

Why in Gods good name Dexter doesn't offer Vault hubs is beyond me. About every new boat trailer on the Gulf Coast is factory equipped with them. Dexter owns the company.

http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defau...).pdf?sfvrsn=2
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:35 AM   #25
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gearhead one word - cost.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:08 AM   #26
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Boat trailers and RV trailers are only the same in that they both have axles. RV’s as a rule aren’t parked on the water so the bearings aren’t exposed to the same conditions....and cost.
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:03 AM   #27
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Five year "no maintenance" warranty, another added 5 years for a reasonable charge ($50?). Ten years maintenance free.

Thousands of RV's parked along the coast on saltwater, tens of thousands on lakes around here.

Torsion axles and Vault hubs are default boat trailer standard equipment here. I've got a "cheaper by the thousand" dual axle McLain boat trailer. The cost of those items wasn't even discussed at my boat dealer. That's the only way he sells them. Now a small john boat trailer, yeah leaf springs and EZ Lubes.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:59 PM   #28
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Ok I used to hand pack my bearings on my old cars too. No prob. I agree with you that you have to inspect the condition of the components. My question is will I have to replace any seals by performing this task? If I remember right on the cars I used to have to buy new seals each time. Secondly where do you get these? The last thing I want is to have everything apart and not have the parts to reassemble the job. Thanks for your help
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:45 PM   #29
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I would think the seals are available at any auto parts store. Just bring one of the old ones with you. If not any trailer store should have them and there's e-trailer or ebay.



On another note, when I brought home our last trailer I had my brake controller turned up all the way and notice almost no brake effect. Later when I removed the drums I found all 4 wheels coated in grease. The grease was so embedded into the shoes that they acted more like bearings than brakes. Most of the brake effect was from the magnets that had worn themselves into the drums. The previous owner used the EZ lub zerts to pack the bearings. I had to replace all 4 complete brake assemblies.
We bought our new trailer from an rv dealer and the mechanic had replace 2 brake assemblies before we got it for the same reason.
Personally, I will never use EZ lub hubs...period. My bearings will always be inspected and hand packed as needed.
I'm sure these things don't always push grease past the seals, but if you don't take the drum off how do you know for sure? The answer, you don't.
On another note, bearing buddies are completely different. They are used on boat trailers that don't have brakes. They help force out water that got past the seal.
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:55 PM   #30
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Thanks. There's nothing that compares to experience. I will have to check out some more videos about doing this just to refresh my memory. I really appreciate your time in this matter. thanks again
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Old 08-27-2018, 06:28 PM   #31
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You may have to visit a couple of auto parts stores to find them. I don't know what chain of stores are in your area. I get my seals at O'Rielly Auto Parts. I have been using their "house brand" seals. You might check trailer stores or boat supply stores.
National and Chicago Rawhide are respected industrial brand seals. You might have to go over to Buffalo to find an industrial supply store.
edit add: get a seal puller to get the seal out of the hub. It's just a hook that pries the seal out. You "can" hammer them out with a screwdriver or punch but be careful about damaging that inboard bearing. After packing and installing the inboard bearing, install the seal. Use a block of wood to keep it straight when you tap it in. It should be in the hub square, meaning flush with the hub so that the rubber seal is very perpendicular to the spindle.
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