Dead Water Heater

[JKreative]

Hi,
I recently purchased a 2017 Keystone Summerland Springdale 2570RL and found the water heater to be rusted and nonfunctional.

I would like to know if this was YOUR rig, which water heater (specific if possible) would you replace it with? And is it a DIY project?

Thank you all in advance!

[LHaven]

You might want to post the mfr and model of the heater rather than the rig, it's one fewer level of indirection for somebody to research. Do you have the dimensions, and is it dual-heat or propane only?

[sourdough]

You'll find that they found a way to shoehorn that water heater in there with wires so short you can't move it and free space that amounts to zero. Sticking with the same size will be beneficial unless you want to start remodeling the walls surrounding it etc. in all probability.

It is probably an Atwood 6 gal. water heater. Propane only or propane/electric I don't know. Look at the unit and there should be a tag on it that tells you the size, model etc. I would replace it with the same thing unless you want to have a "project". It it's an Atwood, Dometic has taken them over and I read the other day that their current "replacements" don't have the same dimensions. Look at what you have and post back. Is it a DIY project? It should be but unless the tank size, dimensions etc. change. Even then it could/would be depending on your skill set.

[JKreative]

AIRXCEL
Suburban Manufacturing Co. Dayton, Tenn.

For Use With Propane Gas [***Although my wall panel has both gas & electric options - see photo.***]

Model: SW6DEL

Stock No.: 5140

Serial No.: 164609674

Orifice Size: 61 DMS

Tank Cap.: 6.0 U.S. Gallons

Test Press.: 300 PSI

Working Press.: 150 PSI

Gas Input: 12,000 BTU/HR
———————————————
I would love to replace with a fully electric & endless capability if possible.

Thank you all in advance!

[TXiceman]

Just replace it with the same model and make, to keep it simple. As noted, they shoe-horn them into small places that are nearly inaccessible.

Ken

[GlasNav]

Originally Posted by JKreative

———————————————
I would love to replace with a fully electric & endless capability if possible.

Thank you all in advance!

I believe you have a 30 AMP service on that particular trailer, an electric on demand will take up every bit of that amperage and at 240V, not the 120V wired into your trailer.
Also, unless your are setting up on a static / fixed location with full hookup, endless capacity will overwhelm your grey tank quickly.
If you aren't mobile and are setting up in a permanent location an independent electrical feed dedicated to the water heater would be possible. BUT, remember with Eversource, cost of electricity and their ridiculous delivery charge could make this endeavor rather costly.

As stated earlier, it's recommended to replace it with the same heater. Also, be sure to use a sacrificial anode in the exterior plug, otherwise the new one will rust out in a hurry considering the hard water in North Stonington.

[TXiceman]

We have a tankless water heater and I hate the thing. I'd love to have the old tank type water heater. With a 30-amp trailer, you are limited on electrical capability. An all electric water heater is not a possibility.

Ken

[LHaven]

SW6DEL is in fact both propane and electric. Details here [LINK].
(A trailer manufacturer putting a two-switch control on a one-trick water heater isn't unheard of, but isn't common.)

[GlasNav]

Originally Posted by LHaven

SW6DEL is in fact both propane and electric. Details here [LINK].
(A trailer manufacturer putting a two-switch control on a one-trick water heater isn't unheard of, but isn't common.)

The posted picture shows the recessed reset buttons for the electric side.

[sourdough]

And here's a link to the same heater from Suburban;

https://suburbanrvparts.com/suburban...lectric-5240a/

It's gas and electric. I would replace the unit with one just like it.

[Bill-2020]

Originally Posted by LHaven

SW6DEL is in fact both propane and electric. Details here [LINK].
(A trailer manufacturer putting a two-switch control on a one-trick water heater isn't unheard of, but isn't common.)

Our Passport was 30amp and had an electric and propane WH. We never had a problem running the electric WH and the A/C at the same time.

[JKreative]

Hi,
Thank you ALL for your feedback! I absolutely love this forum because you guys are great!

I do have an additional question in regards to the water heater. I had seen where one of the steps for setting up the water heater is to bleed the air out via the pressure relief valve. When I lift the toggle switch up, nothing happens - no water comes out. Does this mean that the valve has failed?

I planned on replacing the entire unit per your advice but was just curious if the current one would still work if I could get the pressure valve to work.

I hope this makes sense as I’m new to RVing - thank you in advance!

[jxnbbl]

You have to turn on the incoming water spigot and you should feel air come out if the valve when open if not ….Is there a water heater bypass? If engaged there is no water going in the tank

[jasin1]

I’d fix the one you have …my water heater looked like the one you posted when i purchased my rv new…Rvs generally sit outside most of their life. The water heater is separated from the elements by a thin piece of sheet metal with vents cut in it…Mine traveled new from indiana to the dealers lot and then sat for months.The metal on the burner tube and bracket is exposed to humidity from sitting and also water from the road when driving in a rainstorm…you may have a perfectly good water heater that just needs a cleaning or simple repair…Have someone experienced look at it…i’d keep it simple for now…you will likely have your hands full with other repairs on a used trailer…you can always upgrade in the future when you see how you actually use the rv for awhile …My bright ideas and wish list completely changed after the first year…yours may also

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by JKreative

Hi,
Thank you ALL for your feedback! I absolutely love this forum because you guys are great!

I do have an additional question in regards to the water heater. I had seen where one of the steps for setting up the water heater is to bleed the air out via the pressure relief valve. When I lift the toggle switch up, nothing happens - no water comes out. Does this mean that the valve has failed?

I planned on replacing the entire unit per your advice but was just curious if the current one would still work if I could get the pressure valve to work.

I hope this makes sense as I’m new to RVing - thank you in advance!

You do NOT bleed the air using the pressure relief valve. You need an “air gap” to allow for expansion. Once you know the bypass valve is in the correct position turn on a faucet hot knob and when you get a steady stream of water your good to go.

[ChuckS]

That WH should easily last 20 years or more if properly cared for..

** If the pics posted showing the front of the WH are from your unit it looks like brand new from what I can see.
** Minor surface rust means nothing and is found on most of the WH units because folks never wipe them down after draining. etc

That WH is very very easy to troubleshoot... Its is very reliable in both 120 VAC and 12 vdc/lp modes of operation

Where is the unit "Rusted Out"??????

I would also not install anything else but what is in the unit.. The SW6DEL series beats any Atwood WH hands down

I would also highly suggest reading the manual on operation of the unit and watch this series of videos that explain some of the basics of that unit..

https://youtu.be/CO3XnDkJ1wU?si=iHDEfljMB54dSyK8
https://youtu.be/ilEt4PROv2A?si=onmgrN_gTeuZpHFP
https://youtu.be/OJFJjIgNV74?si=q5c8Ku-ctfaaJV7N
https://youtu.be/RAhQgCTnNcA?si=bIryJ6SWBqY8r38J
https://youtu.be/PCLo5engFkg?si=ux3L3TP1e2y7wgms

https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c...ser-Manual.pdf

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

You do NOT bleed the air using the pressure relief valve. You need an “air gap” to allow for expansion. Once you know the bypass valve is in the correct position turn on a faucet hot knob and when you get a steady stream of water your good to go.

+1 on this reply...sorry I was replying before on my phone and stopped at the thought of nothing coming from the relief valve.



I'd post the reason you state it is non functional. If nothing is coming from this valve and you have the city water on, and all the faucets off...then I believe you have a bypass plumbed in and the tank is not getting anywater. DEpending on the plumbing, a HW heater can be bypassed but the hot and the cold water in the sink(s) work still. I'd take off the drain valve and turn on city water to ensure the tank is getting water. Then when the water runs clear cap that and open the HW at the sink in the trailer.


I do open up the relief valve when draining the HW tank AFTER IT IS COOL or after I have sanitized the entire system.


The worse think would be to install a new tank and find out is it some blown fuse/power/etc.

[JKreative]

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

You have to turn on the incoming water spigot and you should feel air come out if the valve when open if not ….Is there a water heater bypass? If engaged there is no water going in the tank

Thank you! I have the water spigot on but do not feel anything at all coming from the valve. How do I verify if there is a heater bypass?

[JKreative]

Originally Posted by jasin1

I’d fix the one you have …my water heater looked like the one you posted when i purchased my rv new…Rvs generally sit outside most of their life. The water heater is separated from the elements by a thin piece of sheet metal with vents cut in it…Mine traveled new from indiana to the dealers lot and then sat for months.The metal on the burner tube and bracket is exposed to humidity from sitting and also water from the road when driving in a rainstorm…you may have a perfectly good water heater that just needs a cleaning or simple repair…Have someone experienced look at it…i’d keep it simple for now…you will likely have your hands full with other repairs on a used trailer…you can always upgrade in the future when you see how you actually use the rv for awhile …My bright ideas and wish list completely changed after the first year…yours may also

Thank you so very much for your response! It makes complete sense and it put my mind at ease. There is definitely a learning curve for me and I will start taking things a little slower while I learn the ropes. Had you not explained it I would have continued to think that the unit’s rust, dirt, etc. represented a negative value. Thank you again and I will be posting updates as I troubleshoot.

[JKreative]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

You do NOT bleed the air using the pressure relief valve. You need an “air gap” to allow for expansion. Once you know the bypass valve is in the correct position turn on a faucet hot knob and when you get a steady stream of water your good to go.

Hi, and thank you for your response. This is the video that I watched that shows bleeding the valve.

Starts at the 0:50 mark.

https://youtu.be/91IrEuAH2X0?si=MWQRyGlj3Ox9hu6m