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Old 04-19-2019, 04:25 PM   #21
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To the "nukes" , any value in increasing the rpms of the truck while charging the batteries? Seems to make a difference when boosting another vehicle in cold weather. Does it increase the alternator output and help in this situation?
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:37 PM   #22
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If you have a voltmeter and can see an increase in voltage, then yes.
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:40 PM   #23
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Thanks for the insight. Another thing learned today.
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:48 PM   #24
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To the "nukes" , any value in increasing the rpms of the truck while charging the batteries? Seems to make a difference when boosting another vehicle in cold weather. Does it increase the alternator output and help in this situation?
Yes but who wants to sit there with the engine revd to 2-3000 rpm for hours? [emoji51]Click image for larger version

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Old 04-19-2019, 05:00 PM   #25
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I have to say I'm a little disappointed that no one in the park would borrow their generator to help another camper in trouble
I've done it for fellow campers a couple of times over the years and consider it just another "on the road" courtesy. Maybe we're just different down here.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:01 PM   #26
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I have found that many vehicles can hardly charge their own battery at “idle”, even harder to charge a big rv battery setup. If any lights or heater turn on in the tow vehicle, it could certainly not be enough. They do an ok job at cruise, or if you sit in the truck and hold the rpms at 1500 or better.

Many stock alternators are only about 70 amp, optional trailer packages may have the bigger alternators needed to charge trailer equipment, but you still need higher rpm’s than idle.

During power outages, some utility companies can increase idle speed on service trucks when charging a battery like in phone or cable equipment. Most now just use a portable generator since they are more efficient and since the alternators don’t charge quick enough.

You don’t need a big generator if all you’re doing is powering the charging equipment in the trailer to charge the batteries. I’m not sure, but 1000watt may be enough. I use a Honda 2000.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:02 PM   #27
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Looks like even 1,000 rpm would be better than idle.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:04 PM   #28
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Steveo, great chart above, didn’t see it when I was typing my reply.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:06 PM   #29
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I have to say I'm a little disappointed that no one in the park would borrow their generator to help another camper in trouble
I rarely see a generator or trailer with a generator in a provincial park campground in our area. Maybe once in 30+ years of camping regularly.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:11 PM   #30
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Looks like even 1,000 rpm would be better than idle.
That's alternator RPM which is determined by pulley size. It's just a generic visual to show that engine speed does have an affect.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:15 PM   #31
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We regularly see vehicles abandoned around here during snow storm traffic jams. I know of people, in traffic, with lights radio and heat on, where their car quit running, dead battery and they could not start it without a jump. The car will run just off the battery until it’s completely drained.
If the alternator can’t keep up with the vehicle own power consumption, how can it charge a trailer battery.

Again, Great chart Steve. Looks like the 2000-3000 rpm is the right number. Then all you need to do is hope the cooling system can keep up. 3000 rpms generates a lot of heat. Generator is the answer.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:19 PM   #32
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Guess this old dog learned something.
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Old 04-20-2019, 07:01 AM   #33
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Thanks to everyone for the help! My TV is a 2010 F350 with dual batteries. I hooked it up to the trail batteries via a pair of 10 guage jumper cables, because, as someone pointed out, there is nobody near me with a generator.

I ran the truck for a couple of hours which, according to the control panel, got us up to 14v. We have been very careful overnight by shutting off the furnace and not using the lights much. Up early this morning, power was down to 11.1v but enough to start the furnace and allow me to run a couple of lights.

So far, I have learned 3 lessons:

1. Full service sites allow for better peace of mind.
2. A small portable generator is a beautiful thing.
3. Turn off the Master power switch when storing.

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2019, 07:06 AM   #34
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Glad it all worked out. We dry camp a lot and would not travel without our generator. One other suggestion, make sure you start each trip with fully charged batteries.
Thanks for following up and letting us all know the outcome.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:14 AM   #35
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Thanks to everyone for the help! My TV is a 2010 F350 with dual batteries. I hooked it up to the trail batteries via a pair of 10 guage jumper cables, because, as someone pointed out, there is nobody near me with a generator.

I ran the truck for a couple of hours which, according to the control panel, got us up to 14v. We have been very careful overnight by shutting off the furnace and not using the lights much. Up early this morning, power was down to 11.1v but enough to start the furnace and allow me to run a couple of lights.

So far, I have learned 3 lessons:

1. Full service sites allow for better peace of mind.
2. A small portable generator is a beautiful thing.
3. Turn off the Master power switch when storing.

Thanks
As to #3 on your list, you're better off disconnecting the cables from the batteries for storage, there's still enough parasitic draw even with the switch off to drain your batteries in a about a week.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:25 AM   #36
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I agree with Texan, the battery disconnect still allows power to go to many items, trailer brakes, smoke and CO2 detector, slides, levelers and maybe others. Your batteries will still go dead in a couple weeks or less. I think they are really designed for while traveling or something.
Add a disconnect switch on the negative side of the battery to use when storing. Better yet, take the batteries out and put them on a battery tender in your garage over the winter.
I added a 100 watt solar panel on the roof to keep my batteries charged, we don’t get much snow here that would block the panel.
Also, to avoid damaging them, consider your batteries dead below 12.2 volts, get a charge on them immediately if they are below 12.2. Using them at 11.1 is not a good plan.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:25 AM   #37
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As to #3 on your list, you're better off disconnecting the cables from the batteries for storage, there's still enough parasitic draw even with the switch off to drain your batteries in a about a week.
Ok. Thanks for the advice.

Now, about generators, does anyone have recommendations for a reliable, quiet model available in Canada?

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:29 AM   #38
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We use two Honda 2000’s. Connected together they will run an air conditioner also. The new 2200 is even better, light, very quiet, but expensive.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:34 AM   #39
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Two Honda 2000s paired together with the RV plug.
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Old 04-20-2019, 11:45 AM   #40
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Glad it all worked out. We dry camp a lot and would not travel without our generator. One other suggestion, make sure you start each trip with fully charged batteries.
Thanks for following up and letting us all know the outcome.
So, I have my truck charging the unit again now, it appears that if one starts with low batteries, it's hard to catch up.

Generally speaking, what are some of the ways to save power when dry camping? I assume that the AC unit and the furnace are the two biggest users.

Also, what size generator is required for a reasonable level of power? I don't use the Microwave at all.

Thanks
Alan
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