silicone on dicor

66joej · 07-27-2018, 05:16 AM

Just wondering if silicone will adhere to Dicor for use as a temporary fix. Not all owners carry Dicor and a caulking gun.

**JRTJH** · 07-27-2018, 05:51 AM

Depending on where you apply the silicone, you may run into problems with the repairs going forward. NOTHING sticks to silicone (not even additional silicone) so you'd need to remove all the old silicone in order for the next application to adhere. So, if the "silicone repair" is to a small area of DICOR which can later be completely removed, you'd probably be OK. BUT, on the other hand, if you "smear silicone across the TPO membrane, then later on, the DICOR won't adhere to that spot and even if you "smear DICOR" over the area, it will lift in the area where the silicone was applied. The margins will be OK (if you apply beyond the silicone), but depending on where the repair is located, it may not stay in place with silicone under the DICOR.

notanlines · 07-27-2018, 06:18 AM

Joe, avoid the silicone at all costs. I had an idiot repairman do a small repair for us (since he was in the neighborhood) in Florida. He sealed the molding on the Raptor with clear silicone before I knew what he was doing. Honestly, I worked three hours or so to get his mess cleaned up. Both Brenda and I have ill wishes for him AND his posterior.....

**chuckster57** · 07-27-2018, 06:27 AM

Silicone will NOT adhere to Dicor.

**sourdough** · 07-27-2018, 07:08 AM

Joe, just don't use the silicone. I was just studying on something yesterday and a home repairman (trying to remodel a bathroom where silicone was used haphazardly) said "silicone is the bane of any repair project". I have to concur. I've used it and unfortunately had to try to remove it - it is a PITA. Use Dicor.

As far as everyone not having Dicor or a caulk gun.....I would suggest "just get them" - the internet, and Amazon (our Walmarts don't carry the stuff), are your friends. I carry multiple tubes of grey, white, self leveling and non sag along with a caulk gun and eternabond tape (to name a few things) in my repair box that lives in the trailer. Those things are easy to get, make a repair easier and correct and saves a lot of future headaches if you use something like silicone to "get by". JMO

Bisjoe · 07-27-2018, 10:59 AM

Our manual specifically says not to use silicone anywhere on the trailer.

66joej · 07-27-2018, 01:05 PM

I don't use it. Were visiting kids in Okotoks AB. my SIL and daughter bought a very nice 2005 Montana 367RL (heck of a deal at $9K cdn). Anyway he spotted a slight crack in the Dicor at a roof seam and had applied silicone to it. I told him it was not the best for the job. So I will let him know to remove it and get some proper stuff (Dicor). He is not a newbie to RVs but dearly loves silicone.
Thanks to all for the replies.

**sourdough** · 07-27-2018, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66joej

I don't use it. Were visiting kids in Okotoks AB. my SIL and daughter bought a very nice 2005 Montana 367RL (heck of a deal at $9K cdn). Anyway he spotted a slight crack in the Dicor at a roof seam and had applied silicone to it. I told him it was not the best for the job. So I will let him know to remove it and get some proper stuff (Dicor). He is not a newbie to RVs but dearly loves silicone.
Thanks to all for the replies.

Tell him I loved it too......until I had to 1) try to paint it and 2) tried to remove it (even worse)! Good luck.

Badbart56 · 07-27-2018, 05:02 PM

You realize that the lifetime roofs, like Roof Armor.....are silicone?

notanlines · 07-28-2018, 06:38 PM

"You realize that the lifetime roofs, like Roof Armor.....are silicone?" Bart, is there a point to this statement? Half a dozen somewhat knowledgeable people just said don't use silicone.....simple as that, don't use it!

parkgirl · 08-28-2018, 11:48 AM

So, I called our dealer regarding a leak in our slide and I was told that it was probably because it needed the seams re-sealed. I asked what to use and they said use silicone. I didn't like that idea because it is so hard to work with so I thought I'd contact Keystone directly to ask their opinion. They said to use silicone. That is what they used in the manufacturing. (In fact, yes, the seals on the slide do seem to be done with silicone.)

So I know this discussion has been about using it on the roof and I know that is NOT recommended, but what about on the slide sides? What do other people use? And also what is the best thing to use around all the other things sticking out on the side of the trailer (lights, water inlet, elect inlet, etc.). I'm not sure whether any of these things are causing our leak and I want to just go around and recaulk everything but I don't want to have to scrape away all the old caulk that's around stuff, I'd just like to caulk over it. Can I just use non-sag dicor? Or just a regular acrylic caulk that I use around the outside of our house?

Badbart56 · 08-28-2018, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notanlines

"You realize that the lifetime roofs, like Roof Armor.....are silicone?" Bart, is there a point to this statement? Half a dozen somewhat knowledgeable people just said don't use silicone.....simple as that, don't use it!

Sorry, I didn't see your response until today. My point is that companies that install lifetime roof coatings are using silicone. And based on my experience, along with information I've garnered from articles I've read, the roof on an RV is expensive to maintain and a whole lot more expensive to replace. Is their any possibility that perhaps these companies may know something the RV manufacturers don't want you to know? When they offer a written lifetime warranty it leads me to deduce that they either:

1. Know what they are doing.

Or

2. Want to face litigation in a court of law.

I'm opting for 1. And since I had mine installed last year you can check with me in say 20 years or so and see how it's doing if I still have this RV.

ken56 · 08-28-2018, 03:12 PM

No silicone. It will not stick just going over the old. You will have to buck up and remove the old sealant and then I would use Pro flex or Dicor sealant. You might consider using Eterna bond tape over the seams. It more a permanent choice but is expensive.

JimMach1 · 08-28-2018, 03:38 PM

I use dicore on the roof but everywhere else on my rig is clear silicone. I have taken old out and resealed it just this summer before the Colorado trip it is holding up fine. But again I repeat I use the dicor on the roof.

**JRTJH** · 08-28-2018, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badbart56

...

When they offer a written lifetime warranty it leads me to deduce that they either:

1. Know what they are doing.
Or
2. Want to face litigation in a court of law.

I'm opting for 1. And since I had mine installed last year you can check with me in say 20 years or so and see how it's doing if I still have this RV.

I'm guessing you're right. They likely do know what they're doing and in their design/engineering studies, chances are they have calculated that there will be no requirement to reseal a specific percentage of their applications. Typically, the "acceptable failure rate" is around 3%. Their studies probably indicate that the average RV owner keeps a trailer for 8 years, their product is designed (and tested) to last 9 years, so they would only have to replace or repair any "unlikely leakage" on 3% of the trailers for the very few owners who still own the trailer after the 9 year mark. And only then, if those owners have maintained their "original roof coating" per instructions and provided there's been no damage or other situations that would have voided the warranty..... So, with all the exclusions and possibilities to forfeit the warranty, I'd guess fewer than 1 in 100 purchasers would ever be eligible for and need a repair.

My guess is they aren't putting a lot of worry into product failure. That may be a "calculated risk" or it may be a "superb product reliability"....

At any rate, uncured silicone won't adhere to cured silicone, so for the average RV owner, silicone is not a "product of choice" when it comes to layering sealant over the existing sealant".... YMMV

ADDED: Silicone doesn't stick to itself. I don't think anyone is arguing that point. I'd suggest, rather than "fight the problems of old silicone" why not just use ProFlex or ProSeal. Both are polyurethane sealants, come in the same colors, tool the same, cleanup the same and will stick to older layers of the same sealant and cost the same as silicone. So, why not just use what's easier, works better and costs no different ??? Again, YMMV.....

Badbart56 · 08-28-2018, 04:30 PM

Several companies now offer these coatings and at least one claims to have a fully transferrable warranty. Several articles I have recently read relating to adhering silicon to silicon leads me to believe technological advances may have overcome past issues. One of the RV coating specialist has a video showing how they replace vents, etc. on their silicon roof and it appears to be a primer or bonding agent of sorts.

**JRTJH** · 08-28-2018, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badbart56

Several companies now offer these coatings and at least one claims to have a fully transferrable warranty. Several articles I have recently read relating to adhering silicon to silicon leads me to believe technological advances may have overcome past issues. One of the RV coating specialist has a video showing how they replace vents, etc. on their silicon roof and it appears to be a primer or bonding agent of sorts.

Techniques not yet in the realm of the "weekend warrior" who owns an RV, so even though it can be done, typically not by the people who frequent this forum. I owned a 2002 Mustang with a "tri-coat red clearcoat" It wasn't a "typical body shop repair" and at the time, any scratch went back to the dealer who worked with a couple of body shops who had the expertise to match the color. I'm guessing those RV coating specialists are using techniques and materials that you won't find at Lowe's or HD in the "paints, adhesives and sealants" aisle.

So, again, for the typical RV owner with a caulking gun and a tube of sealant, don't use silicone to seal your RV. It will cause problems if you ever need to reseal because the silicone won't stick to cured silicone.

Badbart56 · 08-28-2018, 05:33 PM

Actually:

https://gaco.com/new-solution-rv-roof-restoration/

For do-it-yourselfers. 25 year warranty. I'm sure there are other brands available. Not saying just anyone can do it but the products are out there. I felt more comfortable having it done by someone who has done hundreds of them myself.

**JRTJH** · 08-28-2018, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badbart56

Actually:

https://gaco.com/new-solution-rv-roof-restoration/

For do-it-yourselfers. 25 year warranty. I'm sure there are other brands available. Not saying just anyone can do it but the products are out there. I felt more comfortable having it done by someone who has done hundreds of them myself.

Which is EXACTLY why we all recommend NOT using silicone to seal anything on an RV, especially the roof. There simply isn't enough experience with how to do the "hard work" of applying a multistep process to the roof. For the "weekend warrior" who hasn't done hundreds of them, avoiding silicone and using a product the manufacturer (DICOR and/or Alpha Systems) recommend while avoiding what they say NOT to use just makes sense.

Now, on your "highly specialized replacement roof system" I'd suggest you use what the manufacturer recommends. If you still had your TPO or EPDM membrane up there, that would NOT be silicone, but what the manufacturer recommends.

**sourdough** · 08-28-2018, 06:11 PM

From just a user viewpoint, why would you use silicone vs Dicor or similar on the exterior of the trailer? I've removed lap sealant, and TRIED to remove silicone from many areas. I've used it as well. Silicone is difficult to put on (messy/sticky) and very hard to remove unlike other sealants. On an RV things come loose or fail regularly, putting everything under a cover of silicone that is hard to remove doesn't compute for me. I can take a razor knife along the sides of the screw strips and just cut the old dicor off; that process doesn't happen with silicone. You have to scrape, pull, rub, use various chemicals etc. Nope, I think I like the Dicor or like sealants.

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