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12-13-2018, 11:14 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: City of Central
Posts: 4
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Raptor EyeBrow
My “new to me” 2015 Keystone Raptor eyebrow lights need to be replaced. How would I go about getting to the lights to replace them. Also, what type of lights will i need for the replacement, rope, individual bulbs? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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12-13-2018, 12:40 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Kingston
Posts: 295
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following with interest. My 2013 has the same issue.
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2013 Raptor 310ts Toy Hauler
2017 Dodge Ram 6.7l CTD DRW Laramie Longhorn
2008 FLHTC Harley.
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12-13-2018, 06:22 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,981
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I believe these are the LED strip lights you need. http://www.trekwood.com/products/448...12-12V-14-Amps
Rest assured, you can buy them on Amazon for much less than $55 each which is the cost at Trekwood. Take a look at the information and then use Google or just go to Amazon to find a similar product. You should be able to find IP68 (waterproof) 12" LED strip lights for around $5-$10.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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12-13-2018, 06:52 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Kingston
Posts: 295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
I believe these are the LED strip lights you need. http://www.trekwood.com/products/448...12-12V-14-Amps
Rest assured, you can buy them on Amazon for much less than $55 each which is the cost at Trekwood. Take a look at the information and then use Google or just go to Amazon to find a similar product. You should be able to find IP68 (waterproof) 12" LED strip lights for around $5-$10.
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I guess the real issue (at least in my case) is where to access the wiring in order to replace the entire string. I guess it's behind the large mirror in the master bedroom (back of front cap on the interior)
I will have to explore further once I pick up the 5er from storage at the end of the month.
__________________
2013 Raptor 310ts Toy Hauler
2017 Dodge Ram 6.7l CTD DRW Laramie Longhorn
2008 FLHTC Harley.
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12-13-2018, 07:35 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,325
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Most often the wiring for front cap lights is behind interior walls and about impossible to access. We pull the LED strip off and then gently pull as much of the wiring as we can out.
At that point we use shrink tubing, stagger the connections and solder the new string to the old wiring. Pay attention to color as they are polarity sensitive. Push the excess back into the hole, peel and stick strip and seal hole with silicone.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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12-13-2018, 08:16 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,907
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A neighbor in the park we are in who has a non Keystone brand 5er has those LED lights, and neither one was working. I checked that the control module was working and there was power going forward toward the front cap when the switch was on. Bill removed part of the cabinet in the front of the bedroom, and found no extra wall behind it. He moved the insulation around and found the wires going to the lights. Turns out, the manufacturer used 3M Scotchlok connectors and they weren't squeezed tight enough to cut through the insulation. He cut the connectors out, used wire nuts to replace them, and now his lights work. They had not worked ever, since he bought the rig earlier this year.
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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12-13-2018, 08:41 PM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,981
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Some of the fifth wheels I've seen have "squeeze clip" type lenses on the front lights. The Cougar XLite caps used a "puck light" with 3 screws holding it to the cap just over the pin box. All the rest have had the lights "pushed into slots" behind the lenses which were molded into the front cap. On those, the only way to get to the wiring/connectors/lights was from inside, behind the cap. Some manufacturers provide a hatch, a panel or a wall to remove to get to the wiring. Others just seal things up and let you figure it out on your own. Their thoughts ???? They're LED's and never burn out and are maintenance free.... Yup, they did good on that one, eh????
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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01-03-2019, 11:08 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Grays Creek, NC
Posts: 334
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I replaced both of mine last summer, start pulling the old lights off from the top and they will peel right off.
When you get to the bottom you'll see the hole where the wire goes into the fiberglass, gently pull and the wires will pull out of the hole. I had about a foot of extra wire before I couldn't pull anymore.
I put a clamp on the wires so they didn't fall back into the camper and cut just after the lights. Bought new lights from superbrightleds.com and just cut them the same length as factory.
Clamped the wires together and stuck them back in the hole, used the self adhering backing to stick the lights back on the camper (after cleaning with alcohol) and used clear caulking to seal around the hole and the top of the LED strip where I cut them to length.
Very easy to do and the new lights were way brighter than factory ever was.
__________________
2018 Chevy LTZ 3500 4X4, DRW, QC, 6.6L TD, Factory trailer prep, Andersen Aluminum hitch
2015 Raptor 332TS 38' Toyhauler, Maxxis M8008,Splendide 2100XC, Winegard RoadTrip Mission satellite dish, King sleep number bed
Retired Army, 22yrs
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