Adding a 120v power outlet to a slide wall?

[MarkEHansen]

We have a 2019 Cougar half-ton 26RBSWE. The trailer has a single slide which includes both the dinette and theater seating areas.

The problem is that there is no 120v outlet anywhere near the dinette. I would really like to have one along the inside of the outer wall, just below the table level (or above, really) - to plug in things like laptops, phone charges, etc.

Is this a difficult thing to do, given it's a slide wall? I'm not sure I want to tackle this myself (without some coaching, anyway), so is this something I can get a service/repair place to do for me? What can I expect it to cost?

Thanks,

[flybouy]

Start by extending the slide and crawl under it and take a look. If you have a cable installed for the slide motor and or side clearance light then you may be able to attach your wire to it. If not, then you will have to engineer that. I would use a surface mount box and not disturb the slide out wall. This is the type cable I'd use https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...jeoow-14-3bk-1
Next challenge would be getting the wire to the electrical panel. A 15 amp breaker should be easy to source. I have no idea on cost to do it by a tech but given their hourly rate prepare for $300 - $400 in my thinking. I'm sure others will chime in.

[MarkEHansen]

By attaching to the existing slide cable, I assume you mean just for routing purposes, not electrical connection, right? Just want to make sure we're on the same page.


I guess to get access to the breaker panel, I'm going to have to go up under the coro-plast bottom cover and look for other wires going up in the same general area? I've not looked under there yet...

[JRTJH]

The coroplast only covers the area between the frame rails. The 15" (or so) on the outer sides of the bottom are not covered. Rather than pull the coroplast, it would be easier to run the new romex from the breaker panel to the edge of the trailer above the floor, through the back of cabinets (if possible) and then drill a small hole in the floor so the romex comes out under the trailer side "outside the frame rails". You won't have the coroplast to deal with and the romex will be closer to the actual area where you'll want it.

DON'T USE ROMEX on any moving parts, using the slide will eventually fatigue the copper single strand wires and cause failure. Install a junction box to the underside of the floor directly under the hole you drilled and wire a multistrand flexible wire (think 12 gauge extension cord) from there to a hole in the floor of your slide. MAKE SURE IT WON'T BE PINCHED OR CUT WHEN THE SLIDE MOVES IN !!!!! Determine how to support the flexible wire during travel such as a spring to keep it tight or a slide wiring guide to fold when the slide moves in. Then, mount a wire guide on the inside wall of the slide from that hole to the point where you want the outlet and install a "shallow outlet box" on the wall, wire your outlet and you're ready to plug in.

You can peek under almost any RV slide to see how the wire guides are used to manage keeping the wire "folded/extended" to prevent damage during travel.

I would NOT recommend trying to run wires through the slide walls. Most are vacuum formed sandwich construction and it is very difficult to drill through them and run romex. Think about drilling through an aluminum tube frame member, the sharp edges you will make with the drill and the insulation on the romex vibrating against those sharp edges.... There's no way to install rubber hole protectors inside the wall to protect the romex from being damaged.

[Steveo57]

Instead of going back to the panel and adding a breaker I would look at existing outlets and see if it would be easier to tie into one nearby.

Instead of adding a new outlet in my slide I just got a power strip with a long cord on it and position it where I need it. I only use it for small things like charging phones etc so I think it's safe and it gives me flexibility to move it around if I need to.

[MarkEHansen]

Thanks for the responses. There is an existing outlet in the non-moving wall next to the slide that should be easy to tap into - if I want to go forward with the built-in solution.

Extension cords sound easy, of course, but I hate having the cord on the floor where it can be a tripping hazard. This is what I'm doing today, however

[Steveo57]

The only problem with tieing in to an existing outlet is if they used a self contained outlet. A special tool is used to push the wires in usually. What I did is just cut out the outlet and put an old work box in with a regular outlet.

The other option I've used is to go with some type of wiremold surface mount cable raceway to run wires where it's hard or impossible to run through walls etc.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

By attaching to the existing slide cable, I assume you mean just for routing purposes, not electrical connection, right? ...

Hopefully so, both of those items are 12 volt so won't be much help to what you want to do.
There's plastic wire channel sold at most home improvement stores that sticks on the wall that you could tie into an existing plug & run the wires in this plastic channel to hide it. The most difficult part would be revamping the existing box.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

By attaching to the existing slide cable, I assume you mean just for routing purposes, not electrical connection, right? Just want to make sure we're on the same page.


I guess to get access to the breaker panel, I'm going to have to go up under the coro-plast bottom cover and look for other wires going up in the same general area? I've not looked under there yet...

Yes, for routing purposes only. I thought that was self explanatory with "connecting at the panel". The other advice on not drilling into the slide wall and using wiremold, a surface mounting system for wire and outlet are also the same advice as my original response. I'm not familiare with where your electrical panel is so I can't advise on the need to remove the coroplast or not. Whichever route, make certain the wire is well secured.

[retiredusps69]

We had almost the same problem on another brand of trailer. I mounted a box and outlet under our counter on the kitchen slide.Then ran the wires to a covered 110 male recepiticle. We then use a 110 power cord to the camp ground breaker box. Wife uses for slow cooker, coffee pot,Etc. We always were tripping the breaker when running the Air cond and water heater at the same time.

[wiredgeorge]

The slide represents some challenges if you want a 117V outlet. My slide has one built onto the bottom (not convenient) of the dinette booth. It is there an I use an extension cord. You very well may not have AC current in your slide but in mine, the two lights over the dinette and sofa are 117V AC with odd bulbs. Take a look at all the lights in your slide and if one is AC, pull power from there and go outside using channel to a place where a surface mount outlet could be installed in the slide.

[MarkEHansen]

We do have lights in the slide, but all 12V.

[wiredgeorge]

Some of the lights; that is, the wall sconces in my slide are 12V but the overheads are 117V. Couldn't figure that out. The bulbs in the 12V fixtures, like the rest of my old trailer, are incandescent but look like car taillight bulbs; 1156 type but the prongs stick out straight rather than offset like a car bulb. They can be had at autoparts stores and I can't recall their number but I bought an extra.

[PKONolan]

I am going to install one in our 24 foot bunk house in the stationary wall immediately next to the slide which is close enough for computer and tablet chargers but avoids the problems with a moving outlet. It looks like there is one in the wall immediately under the refer on your type of unit so that may not be close enough for your purposes. Ours will allow me to avoid stringing the cord into the bathroom (shockingly the closest outlet to that side of the table). The other benefit for doing it that way is that this wall encloses the electrical panel which will make wiring very easy.

[apachewolf]

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

We have a 2019 Cougar half-ton 26RBSWE. The trailer has a single slide which includes both the dinette and theater seating areas.

The problem is that there is no 120v outlet anywhere near the dinette. I would really like to have one along the inside of the outer wall, just below the table level (or above, really) - to plug in things like laptops, phone charges, etc.

Is this a difficult thing to do, given it's a slide wall? I'm not sure I want to tackle this myself (without some coaching, anyway), so is this something I can get a service/repair place to do for me? What can I expect it to cost?

Thanks,

Installing a 120VAC outlet in the slide is a bit of work. I ran flat plastic conduit along the wall and at each end I installed an surface mount box with the outlet. At the first box I attached a short pigtail with a plug that is plugged into a short extension cord tucked in between the carpet and the wall. That cord is plugged into the outlet by the bed side. That cord stay in place all the time. The pigtail is only attached to the cord AFTER the slide has been extended. This works like a charm and the setup cost me around $20.00. So I am running off one of the 15A outlets and therefore protected and as long as you remember to unplug the pigtail before retracting the slide you are OK.

[cbmfire]

We have the exact same camper. I was thinking of just running a drop cord behind recliners to a strip Velcroed to the wall or dinette back. Wife mainly plugs in a make up mirror while sitting there putting on makeup. Keep us posted on what you end up doing.

[hankpage]

Wire-Mold products will allow you to mount an outlet where you want it. If you are drilling holes in the carpeted floor be sure to cut an X in the carpet before drilling or the drill will pull a strand from the carpet very quickly. (Don't ask me how I know this)
In my case the power was there but you can get a general idea of how it looks and they are paint-able.

[larryflew]

No matter where you get your power from a 14/3 SO or SOW cord for the part that is moving will last forever. We build a sliding gate that moves 10 times a day that so far is at the 10 year mark.

[Cracker727]

On our Cougar, we have a 120 outlet in our slide under the forward seat cushion of our dinette. It has proven to be very useful even though you do have to get on your hands and knees to plug a cord into it. My wife who “quilts” uses it for her sewing machine power. (2018 Cougar not 2019, sorry)