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Old 01-13-2019, 11:53 AM   #1
lm1071
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Slide out Failure

This morning as we were just ready to hook up and pull out of the driveway, our slide out on our 2018 Cougar 22rbs stopped working. What we have done so far to resolve


1. There is power to the motor

2. We have re-spliced both sets of wires to make sure the connection is tight.

3. We have manually moved the slideout in to make sure it was not lodged.

4. When we checked for power at the motor with a volt meter a couple of times the slide out would work but only intermittently.

5. Obviously we are still under warranty but this trip will be a bust if we cant get it solved today or tomorrow am.


Any ideas?


Thanks
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:30 PM   #2
Frank G
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Is your battery charged and connected? is the RV plugged in and converter on? Is the problem only on one slide? Can you identify a circuit breaker in the slide motor circuit. When you intermittently have power does the slide move? If the answer to the last question is yes, I would think it is an auto resetting circuit breaker. You could always temporally hot wire the slide, risky.
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:36 PM   #3
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If the motor does have power and the switch is "known good" then check the battery for a full charge/good wiring connections and check the converter for blown fuses. Be sure to also check the two red reverse polarity fuses. If all of that is good, then I'd suggest looking for one of these "auto reset circuit breakers" that has likely failed..... Usually they are located on the tongue/in the front storage compartment.....
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Old 01-13-2019, 01:46 PM   #4
lm1071
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Thanks After spending the morning checking everything it seems that the wires going into the motor may be loose inside. It is working now after playing with the wires a bit but we are nervous to travel without having it checked out. Have you ever heard of the wires being loose inside the motor?

Also it was cold this morning when I pulled the slide in. It worked fine then when my husband went to slide it out (forgot to put something away) The trouble began The fact it is intermittent is driving us crazy.

We are connected to house power ( not 30 amp)

The wires to the motor read 13.4

I don't see any switches like you posted and the fact it worked when the wires into the motor were being touched makes it seem like something inside.
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Old 01-13-2019, 02:18 PM   #5
chuckster57
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Iíve seen the wire nuts at the motor come loose more times than I care to remember.
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Old 01-14-2019, 09:15 AM   #6
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On some 12VDC motors there are connections on the outside that can be fixed by tightening the screws on the terminal block. On some, there is a plug and internal connections. On that type, the motor has to be disassembled to repair the connections to the brushes. Here is a "sort of the same" DC motor. You can see the wires going to the brushes. If those wires are shorted out, open, loose or if the brushes are worn, that may be the problem with intermittent function.
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Old 01-14-2019, 11:37 PM   #7
ddibon
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Slides not working.

Understand Ohm's Law. For an RV it boils down to anything demanding high amps against a "relative" low voltage supply will yield heat...often, lots of it.

The motors to your slides are protected by what is listed as an "automatic, resetting fuse". It's a thermal fuse, and you locate it within three feet of the positive wiring of the motor in question. If it's getting hot and gripping you know your problem...the battery is unable to deliver sufficient operating amps. The onboard battery charger from shore power is 2 amps, and makes no difference plugged in or not.

A single, deep cycle 100 amp hour battery will not supply sufficient " cranking amps" to operate your slides. Eventually the thermal fuse will fail, and the heat will transfer to the motor, your battery and all connecting wires. You can get crisping of these wires way into the walls of your RV.

RVs often have poor grounds. This is dangerous as it's essentially a closed ground loop. The mounting screws themselves represent most of the grounds present on your RV. It's well worth the time securing several sites of solid, direct grounds to your battery system.

When you slide motor gets hot the wires inside will "de solder" and fall.off, or they can crisp and simply break. This is good for otherwise the metal fuses.

It should be criminal negligence to sell any Rv with dc motors with a dc.battery incapable of operating the slides, but it is not. Likewise, good luck getting warranty to be honored.

All the hydraulic.pumps will be Lippert ones with the brand name stripped off of them. When you call them you'll be able to find a Lippert tech who will walk you threw what is happening. But they won't be happy, so be nice and adoptable. You find you won't get warranty credit without sending in the entire contraption. They won't tell you it is not possible to ship a compressor with open fluid in the mail. Not doing so makes it where your warranty is not activated. Better get a seasoned dealer or tech at bat for you on the phone. You'll need it.

Easiest solution is to immediately upgrade your battery system to sufficient design to meet pulsed 60 to 80 amp draws for ten minutes. Short of that you'll have the same issue over and over.
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:18 AM   #8
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ddibon is correct, especially the last part. I would not take a unit with more than 2 slides off the lot without at least 2 group 27 batteries. I'm old so still like wet cell deep cycle marine batteries and replace at least every 5 years on my boat too.
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Old 01-15-2019, 10:14 AM   #9
Steveo57
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My slide motor is rated at 30 amps and is protected by a 30 amp auto reset fuse. It runs just fine on my single battery as I'm sure millions of other slides in others RVs do.

Most onboard converters will supply much more than 2 amps, that's what they used to do years ago. Mine is rated for 55 amps and it's probably typical for what you will find in most RVs now.
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