Fixed!!!!
Ran four hours straight with a load on it and nothing odd and could even tell it was very different as much less fumes in my garage (yes I had doors the open, etc.) than previously. I had almost forgot what a good running generator sounds/"smells" like ...
I think it was most likely a bad coil (right cylinder coil to match nasty spark plug) but I still changed both coils and all parts mentioned above. There is also a fair chance it was actually just a bad Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor as this matches the error code and perhaps if that sensor is giving bad information of being lean it thus over fuels to try and correct this but eventually thinks its still too lean and just shuts down. I just am not sure the computer in these is that "smart" but perhaps I am not giving it enough credit either haha. however, would expect both plugs rather than just one to look bad, but I have also heard the right cylinder always gets more fuel in these when things go bad. Just mentioning this as might be worth changing this sensor first since no major disassembly required once generator is removed but it is also the most expensive part by far (~$230) and might be good to change the others regardless.
Also, verified the K series spark plug gap is .025in per manual. I replaced the spark plugs again before running after fixes as once fouled some chance wont recover well. Plus, allowed the final "proof" that it was likely fixed as one on left is new with only 2 hours running before it shutdown previously and one on right is 4 hours after all the work and no shutdown:
Here is some further random input from my first experience pulling the generator out and getting to the bottom side of it where coils/flywheel are:
- Several videos on YouTube have info to help pull a 5500 out. Here is the one that helped the most get to the flywheel/coils:
https://youtu.be/D0pSVxgUaDQ?si=4SvreV7a3PeBYu0i
- Best to have a table jack to help get it out of a 5th wheel. Super heavy and awkward! Harbor Freight has these but get the bigger one they sell for more height and stability.
- My generator was siliconed to the frame. Took careful prying from bottom to get it to release and there are certianly some areas you don't want to jack from so was a little challenging.
- The AC wiring that goes into the RV/to transfer switch on mine did not have a junction box to disconnect it easily. Easiest to just cut it if have extra length and wire in a junction box as some already have this.
- My harness that has the 12V remote connection/control of the generator was wedged between the generator cover and the plastic cover that sits over all the AC wiring connections under the two 30A breakers for the generator. I ended up just stagger cutting these one at a time and made sure this harness is accessible next time after putting it back together.
- The exhaust gas temperature sensor that some wont have was just a standard PRT like sensor with bung welded into muffler and wire harness.
- Was a lot of work in general to get to the backside/separate the engine from the base but really not that difficult in end. A hydraulic lift of some type can really help but still some stressful moments as easiest to flip it on its side to work on flywheel.
- Remove tension from the belt using 1/2in drive to lift the tensioner pully and insert punch through hole in the pulley to hold it up as above video shows. A good tip is to leave the tensioner pully like this while do all the coil/flywheel work. The only reason tensioner pully would need to be fully removed is if changing the belt. So, if changing the belt just release the pully so has tension again when done and flywheel is still off, slowly loosen tensioner bolt and get bolt to just where it fully releases to give enough gap to insert belt over the other pulley and flywheel, then without moving the tensioner from where it sits it will still be in proper place and can insert bolt back in and slowly tighten the bolt again to work the tensioner back into place since it was never removed. It is spring loaded and one end of its spring has to be in the same spot and if you fully remove it can be a pain I have been told, but doing this was super easy for me.
- The flywheel can fairly easily just be removed with a short prybar. I used a 18in one with a 90 degree hook end. Just be sure to pry where there is a bolt going into the case and not on the case itself. There are two potential bolt locations and both are fairly close to where the coils are. Coils need to be removed first. just pry a little, turn the flywheel, and pry again until slowly work it off. Wont feel like doing much but it eventually will pop off.
- My belt and flywheel coupler both looked great but still replaced them since one of the more common failures.
- Blow out everything while apart, especially the generator windings and make sure don't see any burn marks or similar from what you can see of them under the slotted cover.
- Good time to change oil when done ... easiest one will ever do haha.
- There was some heat tape across the the base of the generator when it is installed in the RV. This blocks an exhaust port cutout I think. Easy to overlook as gets messed up when taking generator out, but if that is left uncovered will get a good amount of hot air from the fan trying to push hot air out the bottom that might heat soak the generator with the RV access door closed so don't overlook this.
- Don't forget gaskets tp also purchase gaskets along with the other parts. Valve cover gaskets often crack as they become a bit brittle over time and removing the valve cover makes spark plug changes MUCH easier so order extras for later since cheap. I replaced the muffler gasket also since have to separate it. Extra spark plugs can help troubleshoot further so get extra set or two.
Linear Mode
