Wheel bearing issues on a 2012 raptor 300mp

rnkburg · 11-27-2016, 01:17 PM

So two times I have hauled my sxs in my raptor and past two times I keep blowing the wheel bearing on the rear axle of the passenger truck side. Entry door side of trailer. This is a two axle trailer. Towed several hundred miles this summer with nothing in garage. Sxs weighs 1500 lbs or less. Max weight says 2500 in garage.

Anyone had this issue or found a better stronger bearing or even axle for this. I am replacing with national bearings as that is the only ones I can find. Only Orielly's auto parts carries them. No other store carries a bearing around here to fit it.

I write this as I am sitting on the side of the road with a rear wheel about to fall off waiting on a friend who is picking up the bearings and seals as we speak.

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**JRTJH** · 11-27-2016, 02:32 PM

First I'd ask if you've weighed your trailer wheels individually? The refrigerator/galley sit right over that axle, so adding 1500 pounds of ATV that far aft of the axle (counterweight past the pivot point) may be significantly overloading that axle.

Timken offers "USA made" bearings, but they also sell Made in China bearings, so read what's marked on the actual bearings you buy. etrailer.com, PPL and a few other online retailers sell Timken.

But, the first thing I'd do is replace the bad bearings to get yourself home, and before unloading, I'd weigh each wheel individually to get a clear image of exactly what weight is on each wheel. I'm guessing that with the ATV in the garage, you might find that you're over the weight ratings on that side and possibly on that axle/both sides ...

Also, a very remote possibility, if you have only been replacing the bearings and not the races, you may have an "out of round" race that is damaging the replacement bearings. You might want to consider swapping the hubs on that side and replace all the races as well as all the bearings. That way, if the problem follows the hub, you might have a defective hub that's distorting the race, causing the damage..... I know, wild shot, but what the heck......

rnkburg · 11-27-2016, 02:36 PM

We put all bee bearing and races in last time it did this. That was 11/27/15. Yeah I got the reciept. Used national bearings. All I could find. I am beginning to wonder if it is too much weight. I have to unload tonight so can't go weigh it. I am wondering if I should upgrade to a larger axle at this point. I don't know what else to do if it is overloaded. I have seen some tow a small trailer behind them. I am not opposed to that but I am not sure you can get a hitch for a toy hauler. Not to mention what does that do to axle weight etc. I have noticed that the new 300mp units are now tri axle. Maybe they were having more problems than we know about

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rnkburg · 11-27-2016, 02:37 PM

All new bearings. iPhone auto correct is just wonderful

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**JRTJH** · 11-27-2016, 02:43 PM

It's very possible that Keystone upgraded to a triple axle system because of problems, probably something you'll never get them to admit to even if it was the reason. As for replacing the axles, the first issue, I'd think would be to verify that it is really overloaded. You might find that the axle is still under the rated capacity even when fully loaded. Or, you might find otherwise. I wouldn't go upgrading axles unless you know there's a reason to upgrade.

But, if it was me, if the axles and each wheel aren't overloaded, I'd do some swapping of hubs and installing new Timken bearings/races. If it follows the hub, you know it's the hub, if it happens again on the same wheel (and you KNOW you're not overloaded), I'd guess spindle problems.... Have you had anyone check alignment? You might have a bent spindle ???? I know, yet another WAG..... Good Luck !!!!!

rnkburg · 11-27-2016, 02:47 PM

There is no noticeable tire wear at all. I did upgrade to g rated tires because of the fear of China bombs. I am tempted to find a truck stop and get it weighed on the way home but there are none close and still waiting on parts that had to come from another town. I may go ahead and get a new hub sense this time it destroyed the brake inside. Have to get that as well but don't need it to get home. I am literally 25 miles from the house. It couldn't have waited till I got there.....

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**JRTJH** · 11-27-2016, 02:54 PM

Just a suggestion, as frustrating as this is, you might want to ask your DW to hide your hammer, just in case you find something else during the reassembly.....

Good Luck, I know what I'd be thinking right about now. Forum rules won't permit me to even post a "cleaned up" version.......

I hope you get home without any further problems !!!!!

rnkburg · 11-27-2016, 02:56 PM

Yes. I can't even have a relaxing beverage while I wait cause I still gotta drive. Oh the joys. But the DW is not with me. She is the one that suggested towing another trailer behind the toy hauler. I was a little shocked actually that she suggested it. I am now surfing the net on axle issues.

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**JRTJH** · 11-27-2016, 03:06 PM

Think long and hard about adding a second trailer. It's not an issue to add a trailer hitch and mechanically make it work. The problem is "rig length". Most states (I think KY and TN included) have a maximum rig length of 65'. We have a F250 crew cab short bed (156" WB) and a 30' fifth wheel. We tow our Tracker TX175 behind the trailer. Our length with the outboard in the travel position (tilted on the support rod) is 74' 8". Fortunately Mighican's max length is 75'. I can't "legally" tow into Wisconsin or Minnesota, so we do most of our fishing/camping trips around this state. Forget trying Illinois, Indiana or Ohio..... I see a lot of people with longer fifth wheels towing longer boats, so I know people do it. My luck, I'd be the first person stopped for a length measurement in the history of RVing, but that's how my luck goes.....

So, if you do consider another trailer behind your Raptor, do some careful measuring before you get too far into the planning stages......

rnkburg · 11-27-2016, 03:08 PM

In ky here. Tow with an extended cab 3500 duramax dually with 8ft bed. I'm sure I would be right at the limit if I towed a 12 or 14' trailer

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gearhead · 11-30-2016, 05:23 PM

I'm thinking you have a problem in the hub. It sounds like you didn't, but don't install new bearings in old races. That old race has a wear pattern, however small. Are the races seating all the way down against the shoulder? You should hear a distinctly different sound when they bottom out. Check the Inner Diameter for a little booger or irregularity near the shoulder. Is the grease seal in good shape? Does that hub sound the same as the others when you rotate it? Do you have any "color" on the spindle where the bearing runs? Was there enough of the bearing left to troubleshoot? Does it look like any of the races could have spun? Can you use a micrometer? If yes, I would check dimensions of the spindle bearing journals and the I.D. of the hub.
How many times has this happened on that hub?
Either Timken or SKF are excellent bearings. You may have to find an industrial supply to get them though. I see Timkens on Amazon, sometimes listed as USA, sometimes not.

rnkburg · 11-30-2016, 05:27 PM

We put in new races bearings and seals. Tourqued to mfg specs on everything. Old bearing was almost welded to spindle. Had to take a air hammer to get it off. Spindle is discolored and doesn't look good in my opinion. But it got me home safely. National bearings is the only bearing that I could find around here which really shocks me. There are so many gooseneck trailers with that same axle you would think it would be popular.

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gearhead · 11-30-2016, 05:57 PM

Sounds like you got some heat in it. Call around some trailer places and find one that will weld a new spindle on it.
Unfortunately a lot of people won't pay for quality.

Outback 325BH · 11-30-2016, 06:06 PM

Keep in mind, weight distribution does not affect weight over a specific axle/hub. Trailer level-ness is what affects that. If your trailer remains level, moving weight from front to back (or vice-versa) will not place weight differently among the hubs.

When a trailer is tongue high or tongue low, that changes the weight between the front or rear axle.

Can you post what axles you have? Tapered roller bearings for Dexter axles are readily available. Don't know what kind you have.

I just replaced my 5,200 lbs Dexter axle bearings (all four hubs) with new Timken USA bearings and races. Ordered them off of Amazon and got them in two days.

It is troubling how you have failures so often. Either something is wrong with the install or something is wrong with the hub or spindle. I guess you could have bad bearings, but that seems odd to me. Who knows.

As suggested above, I would move the hub to another spindle to see if the problem follows the hub and bearings or if the problem stays with the spindle.

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rnkburg · 11-30-2016, 06:10 PM

I have dexter 7k axles on the trailer. This only happens when the sxs is loaded in the garage. The trailer sits pretty level on the truck. Maybe a little down in the front putting more tounge weight on it. And yes you would think they are readily available for bearings but it is very hard to obtain them here. I have started carrying spares believe it or not. What gets me is the new 300mp is a tri axle. Makes me wonder if they knew it was too heavy

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Outback 325BH · 11-30-2016, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnkburg

I have dexter 7k axles on the trailer. This only happens when the sxs is loaded in the garage. The trailer sits pretty level on the truck. Maybe a little down in the front putting more tounge weight on it. And yes you would think they are readily available for bearings but it is very hard to obtain them here. I have started carrying spares believe it or not. What gets me is the new 300mp is a tri axle. Makes me wonder if they knew it was too heavy

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Where are you located? Dexter 7k axles have pretty normal bearings.

I am wondering about your "torque " comment though. I wonder if the bearings are too tight. There is some "set" that you do, however there really isn't any torque on them. The nut should be just snug enough to remove all slack/looseness but should not be tight at all. Error on the side of a little loose. You can grab the hub and try to pull/push it. You should be able to tell the tolerance.

I'll research the bearings...

Also, do you have bearing numbers?

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rnkburg · 11-30-2016, 06:42 PM

In Kentucky here. And yeah figured those bearings would be everywhere. The manual said to tourqe to 50 ft lbs then back off. I have always just got tight and then backed off but never applied a tourqe wrench to them till this time. Just stating what I found in the axle manual that came with raptor and also looked it up online as well

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Outback 325BH · 11-30-2016, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnkburg

In Kentucky here. And yeah figured those bearings would be everywhere. The manual said to tourqe to 50 ft lbs then back off. I have always just got tight and then backed off but never applied a tourqe wrench to them till this time. Just stating what I found in the axle manual that came with raptor and also looked it up online as well

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Looks like Timken 25580 (inner) and 14125A (outer) for bearings. Would need corresponding races too of course. Probably looking at $50 per hub. These are USA Timkens. Seals vary between EZ lube or non-EZ lube axles.

As far as torque is concerned, yeah the 50 lbs is the number suggested for setting. You basically want to ensure the races are set, the bearings have all the slack out of them and the grease is squished out. Once that is done, you back off the nut about a turn (you will hear a pop where everything is relaxing). Once relaxed, you just want you tighten the nut by hand. (Actually, you're not really tightening it... you're just snugging it up and removing the slack.) You can play with it a bit to feel what is going on. You essentially want to remove the play out of the bearings but not apply any pressure to them. The "torquing" business is just to make sure nothing is interfering to give you an invalid adjustment and make it too loose.

If you make it too loose, you can feel the clunk when you push/pull the hub. Also can feel it by pushing one side while pulling the other... back and forth. Your looking to remove all that without putting pressure on the bearings. If the locking mechanism (cotter pin or snap-on gizmo), back off the nut to align.

Try and visualize assembling it all dry without grease... and pushing on the outer bearing by hand... where all slack is removed. That is how tight it should be. (No nut used in this visualization.)

One last thing... how were the races installed? I do mine with a brass drift/punch. You gotta use bras so you don't scratch the races. A press is good, but can damage them easily if not careful. A damaged race can cause bearing failure in a hurry.

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rnkburg · 11-30-2016, 07:30 PM

We did exactly that. I just can't understand why that one bearing keeps going while loaded

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bobbecky · 11-30-2016, 07:34 PM

If your axle is a Dexter 7,000 lbs axle, the inner bearing is a 25580, with a 25520 race. The outer bearing is a 14125A, with a 14276 race. When adjusting freshly greased bearings, the proper way to adjust is using a wrench or socket, put sufficient torque on the nut, and while turning the drum, to fully seat the bearing. Then, without turning the drum, loosen the nut and then using your fingers tighten till it stops and then, if it is secured with a cotter key, back off just enough to be able to insert the key. If it uses the nut retainer, just install the retainer. There should be a bit of looseness in the hub when done right, or you will have a failure for sure. The 50 lbs of torque is what they say you can get using a normal wrench or ratchet handle, and like i said, do not tighten without the drum turning, as this will damage the bearing right from the start.

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