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Old 12-10-2014, 07:26 PM   #1
ocho
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Lav outlet hard line to septic tank

Ive recently become a full timer since the house recently sold. The rv park Im in requires a hard line from the Rv Lav outlet to the septic inlet. They said i could slip a 4" schedule 40 over the flexible tube, but i have to go about 30 ft. I'm sure some here have done this. The pvc pipe is easy, but I'm not sure what parts are needed for the outlet form the rv and the.inlet to septic inlet. Help is appreciated!
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Old 12-10-2014, 08:30 PM   #2
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ocho -
Check out this Valterra website for RV sewer connections:

http://www.valterra.com/product-cate...er-sanitation/
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:26 AM   #3
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When we were seasonal we had to be hard piped into the sewer, the campground provided the service. It was only pvc piping, no hoses involved. They used a ubber gasget type fitting that fit over the pvc pipe and the drain on the trailer and used metal circular clamps to hold in place. On the campground side, the pvc elbow was tappered to slide into the connection and it just sat there. For people that had long runs, they would use bricks as supports for the piping. Check at Home Depot or the like.
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:53 AM   #4
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Like Gary said, flexible couplings are available at plumbing and "Home" stores. They are made by Fernco and are made for all sizes and type of materials used for DWV pipes. THIS is a sample of what to look for.
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:09 AM   #5
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Ferncos are a DIYers best friend!
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:07 PM   #6
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Thanks. I'll do some measuring this weekend. Looks simple enough.
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:02 PM   #7
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ocho, Howdy;

Some good ideas for you to work with ^^^^^.
I built my own system when I lived in Utah. I built
mine with 3" and chose to use Black pipe so it could
generate some heat and melt any frozen moisture
during the day. Valterra has some angled fittings and
the Fernco is a must have (IMO). Keep any curves shallow
(look for waht are called 'sweeps'), to promote better
flow and ensure you maintain a down-slope from the RV
to the hole in the ground. Good luck.

hankaye
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:24 PM   #8
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Good ideas thanks. Here's a question. I still wait until the black tank is nearly full to dump. That way solids and paper will flow out with the liquid. Edgar does everyone else do?
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:10 PM   #9
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Sorry. What does everyone else do?
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:13 PM   #10
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When hooked up to sewer we usually keep both valves closed until ready to dump. Then dump black first then gray and flush both tanks well. Some people will leave the gray open and only close it for a day or so before they are ready to dump the black tank to help flush the lines. Either method will work just fine. Biggest thing is to NOT leave the black tank valve open, that leads to major issues.

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Old 12-11-2014, 04:18 PM   #11
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Yep, exactly my thoughts!
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:35 PM   #12
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Correct, don't change dumping methods.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:11 PM   #13
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What about very cold, and freeze point at valve pull handles

Do we risk cracked ABS sewer lines and fittings, or frozen slide gate valves due to temps around 14 degrees? ---By leaving valves closed till tanks are full?

And what about you CAN'T leave either gray or black valves closed due to letting all bathroom and kitchen faucets dripping all night? Got down to 10 below zero for a few days, and us full time RVers had to leave water running, or system would freeze solid coming into the trailer.
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:21 AM   #14
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slman, Howdy;

You haven't specified what type of RV you have, but ...
When I had my TT I was able to access the gray drain
after the shower and the commode the usual way and I'd
dump approx. 2/3's of a cup of "Ice melt" (Basically Rock Salt),
into each after dumping them and ensuring that the valve was
closed. This was during my winters in Central Utah when the temps
would get down to the - 30's and -40's. I also kept the snow
packed up around the skirting and had a spot where the day's
sunlight would shine on the exterior of the wall the pipes ran along.
The Rock Salt (along with the other chemicals in the Ice Melt), would
also act as a water softener so it was a 2-fer.
The ice melt I purchased was the stuff from Wal-mart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Road-Runner-Ice-Melt/19581295
Hope this helps.
Oh yea, ... dump in the normally accepted methods and schedule.

hankaye
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:53 AM   #15
slman
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I

Quote:
Originally Posted by hankaye View Post
slman, Howdy;

You haven't specified what type of RV you have, but ...
When I had my TT I was able to access the gray drain
after the shower and the commode the usual way and I'd
dump approx. 2/3's of a cup of "Ice melt" (Basically Rock Salt),
into each after dumping them and ensuring that the valve was
closed. This was during my winters in Central Utah when the temps
would get down to the - 30's and -40's. I also kept the snow
packed up around the skirting and had a spot where the day's
sunlight would shine on the exterior of the wall the pipes ran along.
The Rock Salt (along with the other chemicals in the Ice Melt), would
also act as a water softener so it was a 2-fer.
The ice melt I purchased was the stuff from Wal-mart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Road-Runner-Ice-Melt/19581295
Hope this helps.
Oh yea, ... dump in the normally accepted methods and schedule.

hankaye
Opp's forgot to mention,---It's a 2015 Carbon FS27 reg. pull trailer.

I wrapped the incoming hose with insulation, but without leaving water at a fast drip, it will freeze at the connection pt. at hose-to side wall of trailer.
Fast Drips all the time fill these tanks before you know it. Just a bit of a learning curve, then get the hell out of the cold to Arizona or thereabouts.
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slman View Post
Opp's forgot to mention,---It's a 2015 Carbon FS27 reg. pull trailer.

I wrapped the incoming hose with insulation, but without leaving water at a fast drip, it will freeze at the connection pt. at hose-to side wall of trailer.
Fast Drips all the time fill these tanks before you know it. Just a bit of a learning curve, then get the hell out of the cold to Arizona or thereabouts.
Moving someplace warmer is always the "easy option" if you can arrange it.

The limitation of using the "faucet drip" method has its perils. As you stated, if the valves are closed, the tanks fill rapidly. Once full, they can flood the RV. If you leave the valves open and use the "drip" method, if water slowly flowing through the sewer hose happens to freeze, you've effectively "closed the valve" so to speak and once again, when the tanks fill, you're subject to flooding.

I'd say that with most RV's with a "heated underbelly" you're OK down to about 10F by running the furnace to blow some heat into the underbelly. Adding the rock salt will go somewhat lower, how much salt determines how much lower. Below that, some form of underpinning or skirting would be extremely beneficial. Adding a drop light inside the skirting also is an option.

I'd suggest "going self contained" on freezing nights. Disconnect, drain and store the water hose, close the valves and use onboard water/waste tanks and keep an eye on the sewer hose if there's any standing water in it. I'd just disconnect and drain it also. Then, during the day when the temp is above freezing, do your tank dumps and refill the fresh water tank. Truthfully, if you're only connecting the FW hose and the Sewer hose to fill/dump, you can even do it well below freezing as long as you get it done and disconnect, drain the hoses without allowing them to stand and freeze.

Good Luck, and a good road atlas "out of Dodge" is always an option
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:08 AM   #17
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slman,

We had the same issue last year (water freezing at connection point). What we did was remove hose and fill fresh water tank when needed removing hose, draining and storing. More work but you still have water....
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:54 PM   #18
hankaye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slman View Post
Opp's forgot to mention,---It's a 2015 Carbon FS27 reg. pull trailer.

I wrapped the incoming hose with insulation, but without leaving water at a fast drip, it will freeze at the connection pt. at hose-to side wall of trailer.
Fast Drips all the time fill these tanks before you know it. Just a bit of a learning curve, then get the hell out of the cold to Arizona or thereabouts.
Then you can add one of these to keep things warm;
http://www.amazon.com/Easy-Heat-AHB-...at+freeze+free
As you can see they come in different lengths. Figure out what ya need
and stuff it in the insulation with the hose. Still using the one I had in Utah.
It doesn't have to work near as hard here in Southern New Mexico.
Put some skirting around the RV and you should be set of the duration...

hankaye
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:25 PM   #19
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what would the salt do to the rubber seals in the valves?
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:56 AM   #20
hankaye
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64tbolt, Howdy;

Quote:
Originally Posted by 64tbolt View Post
what would the salt do to the rubber seals in the valves?
Never had a problem with the seals. As the Salt melts it acts like a water
softener so I'd presume that it doesn't harm the seals. Also, it becomes
more diluted the more you contribute to the tank ...
I do know from experience that without the ice melt, I had to replace
the entire valve assembly, my gray tank and some 3" PVC pipe and fittings.
Seals are a lot cheaper and less time consuming to replace, whenever that
may be.

hankaye
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