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Old 06-19-2016, 11:35 AM   #1
djkrs2
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Boondocking Newbie

We've had our trailer for 4 years now and we've always stayed at campsites or campgrounds that at least had water and electricity. This year my wife is taking the trailer on a camping trip because the person she normally goes with is having problems with their trailer, which is the one they usually use for this campout. We have never used the water tank/pump to camp so I have a few questions. I've read about the pump running when the tap is turned on but I've filled my tank and while the pump runs I'm not really getting a lot of water from the tap but a mixture of mostly air and some water. I don't have a lot of water in the tank, for the test of the pump so I'm wondering if that is part of the problem. Does the pump first have to purge all of the air out of the tank and lines before you get water and would having the tank full give me better results. I don't want her to get out there and not have any water so I need to make sure it's working correctly before she goes in August. My concern was that in not using the pump for 4 years it may have just failed. I have winterized everything by draining the tank and putting some anti-freeze in the tank each year. Washington doesn't have a horribly cold winter so I don't think there's any problem with that.

Thanks for any help you can give.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:50 AM   #2
Lee
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Hi,... Lee from Lacey, WA here.

When the pump is first turned on after filling the tank, it's not uncommon for air/water combo to exit from the faucets. Especially if the hot water tank is empty as the pump has to fill it up. This may take a few minutes.

I exclusively dry camp. After the fresh water tank is filled I will turn on the pump then open the hot and cold faucets the farthest from the pump. For me that is in the shower. When just water is flowing out ( no air) I then close it and open faucets one at a time working back towards the pump.

The important thing is that after all air is purged from the lines, and all faucets are closed, the pump MUST shut off. If not then there is a leak somewhere or the pump is faulty.

Take care,
Lee
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:20 PM   #3
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Thank you.

It sounds like I need to fill the tank at least once and give the pump the benefit of the doubt. It should really be sanitized before use anyway so this is a good opportunity.
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:37 PM   #4
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It sounds to me like you need to 1) fill the tank more, 2) let the hot water tank fill (until the sputtering stops and you have regular water flow) then 3) purge the tank if you've been putting antifreeze in it. I bet your pump is fine, you just have to give the water pump time to do its thing. As was said above, it MUST turn off. It may run a bit after you turn off the water but it should then turn off completely. If it doesn't, or if you hear it run then shut off repeatedly, you have a problem.
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Old 06-19-2016, 04:15 PM   #5
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If you've never used the tank I would also sanitize it. Fill it up and use 1/4 cup of bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity.

Here's one of a zillion articles on it: http://rvbasics.com/techtips/sanitiz...er-system.html

Also, if there was ever water in the tank it is possible that there is some blackish algae in there, you'll see it once you get the system pumping right.

Either way, I always bring my own drinking/coffee water and never actually drink my RV water, campground supplied or not.
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Old 06-19-2016, 04:21 PM   #6
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Also, when boondocking only turn the pump on when you actually need water as it will still draw current even when not pumping...conserves the battery.
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Old 06-19-2016, 04:26 PM   #7
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Sorry, more advise...tell me to stop if you want. Your battery. 4 years on a deep cycle is a long time and since you never really use it you probably don't really know how good it is. Have you been maintaining water level?

It might be wise to see how long it lasts while in the backyard and not on the boondocking trip. Everything needs 12v, fridge, hot water heater, pump and the big one is the slideout.
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Old 06-19-2016, 06:59 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone for the information.

Bill-e, I can never get enough advise so no worries there. Actually due to a problem with my 30 amp chord my batteries weren't getting charged so they died. I updated to 2 6v AGM batteries for just such a purpose. I also got a good battery charger that I will use over winter to make sure these stay in peak condition since they don't give away AGM batteries. I will remind my wife to make sure she turns off the pump when not needed.

Also, we do drink the campground water but it's always filtered. I really don't drink much water these days that isn't. I have a filter outside on the hose and a Brita in the trailer.
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Old 06-20-2016, 07:31 PM   #9
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So it appears that something is wrong with the pump. I filled the tank completely and turned on the pump. It was running for a bit but I figured that since I'm hooked into power that I could afford to let it run for a while if needed. I went in the house and came back about an hour later and the pump was still running. I tried the taps anyway and got pretty much the same as I did before, a little water and a lot of air.

I don't even mind the fact that it may have to be replaced but I'm not even sure how to get to it. It appears to be under a little carpeted protrusion next to the bed pedestal. At least that's where the sound seems to be coming from. If I do need to replace it, any recommendations on an upgrade to what came in my 2012 Cougar?
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:17 PM   #10
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Turn on the pump with the faucets open. The pump can't purge the air from the lines if they aren't. Open the faucets, turn on the pump and wait for the water to come out normally. Shouldn't take more than a minute or two.
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:24 PM   #11
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If you have a "winterizing" T plumbed in just before the water pump, make sure it's turned to the correct position.

Should have been done at PDI, and explained during the walkthrough if you have the valve, but then I've worked on units older than yours that have never had the water heater bypass turned to the proper position.
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:37 AM   #12
bill-e
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That carpeted protrusion has a liftable top. Raise the bed and you should be able to flip the top open towards the back of the trailer. That will reveal the compartment where the pump is located.

I mentioned algae before, once the compartment is open you might be able to check the lines and make sure that arent clogged.

EDIT: also any loose connection causing a vacuum leak at the pump will cause what you are observing.
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:56 PM   #13
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Hi,

The pump in my TT is also in a protrusion as you describe. To access mine, the protrusion on the left ( as you are facing the bed) has 2 screws in the top holding the lid on. They can be hard to find in the long shagged carpet. Remove these and the lid should lift off. It's different than what Bill-e described as you don't have to lift the bed. Not sure what version you have.

If the hose fitting to the pump on the suction side is not tight then air could be sucked in and would display the symptoms you described......

Take care and let us know what you find,
Lee
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Old 06-21-2016, 05:19 PM   #14
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So as the diagnostics continue, I opened all of the taps and started the pump. I only got air and mostly from the sink in the bathroom. I turned them off one by one after about 4 minutes. I did get a little bit of water from the kitchen sink but then back to sputtering.

I think my compartment is more like the one Lee described. I did find two screws on the top, one on the front edge and one where the top meets the bed frame, right in the corner. I don't see anything but one screw when I lift the bed and I believe that ties the vertical support on the front of the "box" to the bed frame. I'm hoping that's the area.

I'll get my square head screw driver bit and let you know what happens.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:46 AM   #15
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Do you have a docking station with valves for winterizing, tank fill and water heater bypass? If so make sure all the valves are in the correct position. If you filled the tank and forget to put that valve back to "normal flow" from "fill" or whatever it's called on yours the pump will do exactly what you are describing.
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:30 PM   #16
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Did you resolve your issue?
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