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Old 02-23-2018, 10:18 AM   #1
WanderOne
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Underbelly - Proper way to access

Hi,

I need to look behind the underbelly of the trailer for a disconnected heater duct on my new 2018 Cougar 25RES

Looking at the underbelly it seems to some type of rivet, not a screw head, that holds the plastic liner.

I have add a closeup photo of the attachments.

What is the best way to to remove these attachments and the replace underbelly so it stays put?



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Old 02-23-2018, 10:46 AM   #2
mlk1950
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That looks like a Ramset to me. If it is, it all depends what it was shot into as to how to remove it. Hopefully one of the techs on here can tell you more.
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Old 02-23-2018, 11:06 AM   #3
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That looks like a Ramset to me. If it is, it all depends what it was shot into as to how to remove it. Hopefully one of the techs on here can tell you more.
I recently had the same question. Chuckster recommended using a small pry bar to work beneath the washer and pop the fastener out. Or, as John suggested, you can grind the head off and then drive the fasteners on through or drill a new hole.

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Old 02-23-2018, 11:11 AM   #4
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Someone suggested cutting a 3 sided hole / window and then using Gorilla Tape to close?

Worried about water / future holding?
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Old 02-23-2018, 11:20 AM   #5
brad2388
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There just like nails. You can put a 5/16’s nut driver on them and turn em to break them lose and you can pull them out.

Or you can use a slotted screw driver to pry them out. Some of them wont stay in once you remove them. I just use self tapping screws to go back with.


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Old 02-23-2018, 11:28 AM   #6
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Someone suggested cutting a 3 sided hole / window and then using Gorilla Tape to close?

Worried about water / future holding?
That will work. Our previous trailer had access doors cut into the CoroPlast for the slide motors. They were sealed with tape-didn't leak.

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Old 02-23-2018, 11:33 AM   #7
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I use a prybar. Put it between the frame and coroplast to pull on the washer. Self tapping screws go right back in the same hole. If you do cut an access hole, use scrim tape to seal the edges.
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Old 02-23-2018, 12:30 PM   #8
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2018? take it to the dealer and make them fix it, lol. the best solution of all
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Old 02-23-2018, 12:49 PM   #9
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After you get them out, consider using stainless self-tapping screws... Eventually even the coated stuff rusts, especially up where they salt the roads.
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Old 02-23-2018, 01:15 PM   #10
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You can also use a grinder with a cutoff wheel and just cut the heads off, then once you have the cover off you can drive the rest on through the hole in the steel. And yes they are Ramset pins. If your not sure where its at, now maybe the time to invest in a small scope with a light on the end to stick through and be able to see whats there. Those kits just plug into a smart phone and work great for investigating things.
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Old 02-23-2018, 01:52 PM   #11
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I like using stainless screws when I can, but they will corrode when in contact with regular steel. Dissimilar metals. Galvanic reaction. Ford specifically says not to use them for the aluminum bodies and beds either.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q-222R1.pdf

I always thought they were okay with aluminum, but Ford doesn’t think so.
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Old 02-23-2018, 02:31 PM   #12
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I used vice grips. Grab the head and twist left and right like you're tightening and loosing them and pull at the same time. They'll come right out.

John.
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:20 AM   #13
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I have used a pry (crow) bar as in previous comment.
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Old 02-27-2018, 05:22 AM   #14
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I used a steel trim tool that has a notch in the middle. I can work it between the coroplast and washer so that the rivet is in the notch. It will pop the right right out. I replaced the rivets with plated self tapping screws.
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Old 02-28-2018, 08:58 AM   #15
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Good info as I am looking to route a cable under there.
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Old 02-28-2018, 12:57 PM   #16
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Craftsman Universal socket on an impact driver spins them right out of the hole in reverse. They grab anything close in size. Easy peasy. As others have said, replace with self tapping bolts.

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Old 02-28-2018, 02:12 PM   #17
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Craftsman Universal socket on an impact driver spins them right out of the hole in reverse. They grab anything close in size. Easy peasy. As others have said, replace with self tapping bolts.

Attachment 15463
Only problem is I haven't seen a Sears store in years & just about all the Kmarts are gone now, I guess you might still find them online.
Harbor Freight might have something similar for a fraction of the Craftsman price.
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:59 PM   #18
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They sell Craftsman elsewhere now. It was one of the profitable things Sears sold off.

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Old 02-28-2018, 06:47 PM   #19
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True Value Hardware sells Craftsman Tools. Was just in there yesterday & saw them. I was wondering about those darn ram-set nails as well.
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Old 03-01-2018, 04:47 AM   #20
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Only problem is I haven't seen a Sears store in years & just about all the Kmarts are gone now, I guess you might still find them online.
Harbor Freight might have something similar for a fraction of the Craftsman price.
I have a set from Harbor Freight at the house. And believe it or not I still have a Kmart a couple of miles away, and a Sears at the Mall.
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