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Old 01-13-2019, 07:09 AM   #1
zuley
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Leaf Spring Suspension Hangers

I hope I am using the correct terminolgy or name for these componenets. Referring the the triagular brackets that hold up the leaf spring assemblies. It is my understanding that the OE brackets have plastic busings in them and are prone to wear out and fail leaving you perhaps stranded.
Cold winter day sitting here in Ontario thinking about what maintenence I should be doing this spring on my 2013 Passport Elite 23RB.

At what point should these be replaced and what is a good replacement? Pros and Cons? Looking at the MORryde kit on line.
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:53 AM   #2
chuckster57
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A good time to replace them is at your first opportunity. "wet" bolt kits include a greaseable bolt and a bronze insert. Very easy to replace and you just need to know the length of the shackle ( the plate between the spring and the center bracket). ANY brand is better than the factory stuff.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:39 AM   #3
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I replaced the Factory Spring Hangers with Morryde after the 1st year when one broke Its been 5 years now and never a problem. just make sure that they get a shot of grease a couple of times a year.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:04 AM   #4
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[QUOTE=chuckster57; ANY brand is better than the factory stuff.[/QUOTE]


100% agree!!!
As soon as you got it home from the dealer would've been the perfect time to replace them.
Mine had 5000+/- miles & plastic bushings were totally shredded & the flimsy shackles already had the holes elongated, now 60k+/- miles & no issues with the MorRyde kit.
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:30 PM   #5
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Hi Zuley i totally agree a wet bolt system is the way to go I see you are located very close to me look at Cerka industries they are just in Milton you can get all your suspension parts or any trailer mechanical parts there, for a fair price and they are very knowledgeable. The website has a catalog with parts and prices listed hope this helps. BTW I know the sun was out today but man was it cold today..... I know I can’t wait to get back into the camping season. Have a good one!
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuley View Post
I hope I am using the correct terminolgy or name for these componenets. Referring the the triagular brackets that hold up the leaf spring assemblies. It is my understanding that the OE brackets have plastic busings in them and are prone to wear out and fail leaving you perhaps stranded.
Cold winter day sitting here in Ontario thinking about what maintenence I should be doing this spring on my 2013 Passport Elite 23RB.

At what point should these be replaced and what is a good replacement? Pros and Cons? Looking at the MORryde kit on line.
This thread for my 23RB should have everything you need: http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=24991
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:06 AM   #7
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Humm, last trip of this past summer I kinda felt the trailer wasn't pulling like it should. I thought maybe WDH but everything checked out.
With around 20k miles in 3 seasons I think I should check this out.
Thanks.
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Old 03-06-2019, 10:21 AM   #8
jforrest
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The leaf spring shackles installed by the factory, for the most part, are junk. Plastic sleeves that wear out fairly fast, causing abnormal tire wear. Should replace them with shackles that have brass sleeves and grease certs. I find it rather unnerving that the factories are allowed to put these on the road.
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow View Post
This thread for my 23RB should have everything you need: http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=24991
Quote:
Originally Posted by slow View Post
PART 6:

With the equalizer off the TT, I used the 12 mm deep socket to drive out the nylon bushings. These were the most stubborn to remove and the socket made it much easier.


With the nylon bushings removed from the equalizer, I used 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 1/2 diameter rod to clean out the holes in the equalizer.

The brass bushings were a tight fit into the equalizer. I used an old shackle bolt that I ground off the serrations on to drive the brass bushings into the equalizer. By doing so, I minimised deformation of the ends of the brass bushing.




The inside diameter of a couple of the equalizer brass bushings needed to be reamed out after installation to ensure the wet bolt did not fit too tight in the bushing. In hind sight, I should have reamed out the holes in the equalizer prior to installing the brass bushings. That way I would have had a chance to have had a more consistent fit without the loss in thickness of the thin walled brass bushing.
While a good write up I have two small suggestions of a different approach.
When I did our on a 32' 5er, I lifted the entire 5er and placed on wood "cribbing" this allowed the removal of the spring bolts without a press, just needed to place a bottle jack under the spring at the axle.

Second I used a short socket and bench vice to press in the bushings in to the equalizer.
My work space had a slope from side to side.













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