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Old 02-14-2019, 07:26 PM   #41
Tireman9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADQ K9 View Post
The tires have me paranoid, living in Alaska with long distances between places and services. We travel "heavy", loaded fresh water tanks etc. to go a week to 10 days at a time
Jim, Wally World does not sell tires up here and Sams Club closed last year not sure if Costco even has a trailer tire selection, they are finicky about putting tires on regular vehicles any ways. Tires are expensive up here even in the metropolis of Los Anchorage $700 to replace the TK bombs with the GY Endurance. I might be able to get a little better price shopping around but I went straight to the distributor for the Goodyears.
As for the wet bolt kit, I cringe at the noises the trailer makes when I pull in to the cul-de-sac and have to turn around at the end. In addition to the wet bolt kit I have the crossmembers on the list too. Wet bolt kit and three crossmembers are a little over $400 from Amazon. and I will be able to install.
The roads are not the greatest up here with the frost heaves and constant summer construction. just thinking this will help preserve the trailer.
Other things included on the list are the Furion rear observation system $550, and replacing the factory steps with the Mor- Ryde step above system. Basically all safety and security up grades. If these ad monetary value to the trailer when it comes time to trade/ upgrade fine., but more importantly they will give me piece of mind.
So in closing about $1700 in upgrades not including the steps, I have not priced those out yet

How "heavy" are you? A 15% Reserve Load, based on actual individual tire scale readings, can go a long way toward getting reasonable tire life.
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:21 PM   #42
roadglide
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Originally Posted by BikerRN1 View Post
Ok, I'm convinced... Here's my question, I am fulltiming, how do I get my tires changed. I'm a 50 year old gal out here by myself.
Walmart or big o have good service . My friend ordered 235/80/16. Saline tires on line came right to my house the manufacturer date was 6 weeks old . He saved couple 200 dollars . Big 0 is saline tire dealer you can't go wrong with Saline tire there 14 ply that is what you need for your Raptor.
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Old 02-15-2019, 07:31 AM   #43
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New rims? I should be concerned with those too?
That was from my other thread recently so I won't go into detail other than I was planning to go from a 14" D rated tire to a 15" E rated tire while keeping the same five bolt hub. I still need to double/triple check the wheel well clearance and the rim offset.
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Old 02-15-2019, 10:01 AM   #44
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I doubt you need to be concerned with new rims as well. From what I can find your trailer came with 16" wheels and the tires available should carry you. It shows ST235/80r16LRE tires as OEM. They are rated for 3520lbs each. I don't know how you load your trailer but if you run pretty high in your weight range you could upgrade to the LRF tires when you replace them and give yourself about 340lbs more safety margin per tire - if your wheels are rated for that weight (3860) or the pressure (95psi). One or both of those numbers are probably stamped on the back of the wheel.
My weight is 11000 (max is 13000), the tires call for 80 psi.
That is the size tire tho, trailer king.

How does that work? 3520 x 2 does not equal the weight...
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:53 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by BikerRN1 View Post
My weight is 11000 (max is 13000), the tires call for 80 psi.
That is the size tire tho, trailer king.

How does that work? 3520 x 2 does not equal the weight...
Don't you have two axles with two tires on each axle?

3520 X 4 = 14,080.
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Old 02-15-2019, 01:14 PM   #46
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Duh... Blonde moment. Thanks.
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Old 02-23-2019, 09:25 PM   #47
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Two of My Reasons for Upgrades

1. Cheap tires supplied with trailers. Here's a picture of my blowout. The tire had about 1800 miles on it and was 1.5 years old. The tire has a 75 mph speed rating. The tire was loaded to 55% of its load rating. It never saw a speed over 65 mph. It had tpms on it since day one and was never run under pressure. It had never hit a curb or pothole. It was inspected prior to the trip.

The tpms immediately signaled low pressure. I eased on the brakes to pull over and since this tire was no longer supporting any weight it immediately locked up. Because we didn't hear what sounded like a blowout and there was no change in handling I wouldn't have pulled over, I would have checked the mirrors and kept going. The tpms warning and the tire locking up prevented damage to the trailer.

I had America's tire check the rest of the tires and 2 of 3 had bulges. Heaviest loaded tire was at 70% of capacity (LRD). They were replaced with Carlisle Radial Trail HD LRE.

2. When inspecting the running gear one shackle bolt looked out of place compared to the others. Found the shackle bolt had worn through about 40% of the shackle when it was disassembled. I think the bolt was allowed to spin during assembly at the factory stripping out the shackle hole and the serrations on the bolt acted like a file and were wearing away the shackle. The nylon bushings had not worn all the way through but were very thin.

I replaced the factory shackles with heavy duty shackles and installed Never Fail bushings.
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Old 03-01-2019, 12:13 PM   #48
Tireman9
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Originally Posted by MerlinB View Post
Don't you have two axles with two tires on each axle?

3520 X 4 = 14,080.

BikerRN1 have you confirmed that no one tire has more than 3200# actual load? (90% of 3,520 tire capacity)


Where are the roads that have no pot holes?


TPMS do not warn of blet separation which is what appears to have happened to you. How old are the tires?
Do you do an anual"Free Spin" inspection? That would have probably shown an indication of the separation.



If you have confirmed you only have 1,936# on the heaviest tire you have one of the lightest trailers on the road. Your 11,000# scale weight doesn't work out with the other load numbers.
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Old 03-01-2019, 01:10 PM   #49
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Just do it because you know you need to!
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