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Old 02-10-2013, 02:13 PM   #1
jdc5
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hydralic hose replacement

Can anyone give me information about the process to replace a hydralic hose. I have a 2003 Copper Canyon 5th wheel and one of the hydralic hose (for the living room slide) has a leak. Is there a special process after I replace the hose to insure it will work properly

thanks for any help

James
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:14 PM   #2
66ken
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After replacing the hose, top off the hydraulic tank with oil. Move the slide in and out a few times to purge the air from the system, top off tank again and you should be done. Make sure the new hose doesn't have any leaks.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #3
Jim W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdc5 View Post
Can anyone give me information about the process to replace a hydralic hose. I have a 2003 Copper Canyon 5th wheel and one of the hydralic hose (for the living room slide) has a leak. Is there a special process after I replace the hose to insure it will work properly

thanks for any help

James
I would make sure that the hose assembly that you are replacing is of the same material and pressure rating that has failed or slightly higher. I would also replace any other hose assemblies on that side of the system since one has failed the others may fail after that one is fix. Just easier to do one time and not have to repeat the process all over when the next one fails.

Now when installing the hose assembly if the hose connection fitting on the hose assembly are flare fittings design (either 37 deg or 45 deg); DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Over tightening the fitting will just spread the flare apart more and this will then leak at the fitting. If the hose assembly fittings are pipe thread then tighten to a snug to tight fit. If there is a leak at the pipe fittings then tight a 1/4 turn more or so. Check again.

Now if you have a fitting design that is an o-ring face design where there is a seal between the hose connection and fitting instead of a flare joint. You need to make sure that the seal does not fallout when installing and these fittings are torque to a specific tongue reading. This is the best and most leak proof design in the industry today, but I doubt that these were used.

I would then purge the air as suggested but you may be able to crack open a fitting and let the air out at this joint. Do not fully extend or retract the unit for the first three or four times as you move the slide in and out, also move unit slowly. This will prevent cavitation of the oil and air in the motor or cylinder as the unit is closed. You will then retract and open the unit a couple of more times to insure that the air is worked out of the system entirely you may now close the unit when doing this. Top off as required with the proper hydraulic oil as recommend in the owner’s manual.
Jim W.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:52 PM   #4
jdc5
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Smile Thanks for advice

Thanks for your help. I replaced the hose and did as suggested, and ran the slide in and out partilally about 4 times. All seems to be working OK with no leaks
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