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Old 11-26-2013, 04:20 PM   #1
Terry W.
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Winterizing Raptor 300MP

Ok once again I have opened by big mouth. Trying to help a friend winterize his 300MP. I'm a little confused. My Avalanche has a wh bypass valve and a winterize valve, and the unlabled connection. The Raptor only has one valve marked winterize On/Off. Tried blowing air thru the lines connecter to city water connection-No Go, think it was th little 3 gallon compressor will try with my bigger one. Follow direction inside waterworks area and could not get pump to pick up pink stuff. I have drained wh. Only other valve is one marked power fill/normal flow. This was all tried on 40 degree weather in the rain. It's going down to 26 Tuesday night. On my 2 TT I poured pick stuff in FW tank then used pump May try that next.

What am I doing wrong?
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:01 PM   #2
rnkburg
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Under the fridge there is a panel, remove panel and there is a valve for hot water heater. Turn that then set outside valve to winterize and hook hide with antifreeze up and turn on pump. Turn on faucets one at a time until all pink. Then drain hot water heater. That's how I did mine

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Old 11-27-2013, 02:44 AM   #3
ctpd814
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I had trouble with mine also. There is a check valve where the hose connects to the trailer. I had to use a hose filter washer with the point going in to hold the check valve open. Then when I turned the pump on it began to suck the pink up. Just remove the filter washer when your done.
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:14 PM   #4
mpd2001
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I made up a hose and just disconnected the inlet to the pump connected the hose and stuck it in a gallon of antifreeze and ran it through all the lines. there is a bypass on the back of the water heater, I just shut the valve and drained the water heater. that way I dont have to put any antifreeze in my fresh water tank
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:13 AM   #5
MilitaryRoamer
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What year is the Raptor? I have a 2013 MP 300 and did this prior to a deployment. Unfortunately I am not at the trailer so this is all from memory. Hopefully I'm not giving you any bad gouge.

*NOTE: Step 3 and 4 do not both have to be done. You can bypass 3 if desired.

1. There is a lever in the services compartment for the hot water heater bypass. Turn it.

2. I pulled the strainer and one way valve out of the inlet to the City Water port. Simple to do with a pair of needle nose pliers.

*3. You can blow out the lines with low pressure air. I think 30 psi is the max suggested. I made a fitting to connect my compressor to the inlet. Open and close each fixture till you are happy. Once blown out, replace the valve and strainer assembly. (Sorry, I don't have pics with me)

*4. There's another lever in the compartment I believe. Or maybe there's just a Winterize port. If the lever is present, turn it to Winterize and hook up a section of hose to the Winterize port. If not, just hook up the hose and stick it in the rv antifreeze.

5. On the switch panel inside the trailer you need to turn on the switch for the water pump.

6. Now just go around and open individual interior water valves till you see the pink antifreeze come out. Continue this till all the fixtures have been operated. Both hot and cold sides.

7. Dump a bit of extra antifreeze into the drain pipes and tanks and you are all set.

Hopefully this helps and I'm not a day late and a dollar short.
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