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Old 01-30-2018, 03:45 PM   #21
Bostongone
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Lots to learn indeed!! I recently had a dead battery issue. Apparently you can't pull the electric brake cable to act as a added measure of protection against rolling when parked on an incline for ANY amount of time And I did have the battery disconnect turned off.
Brings up a question/concern of how the trailer disconnect emergency brake switch works if the ground or hot cable is cut and the battery disconnect switch is inserted. Are OP’s supposed to remember to turn switch on before hitting the road?
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Old 01-30-2018, 04:37 PM   #22
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That brake is always hot and not affected by the battery disconnect from the manufacturer. If you added your own at the battery....that's a different story. It may not work.

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Old 01-30-2018, 04:38 PM   #23
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The factory installed bypass switch typically does not affect the break-away switch, the electric hitch jack or landing gear, the memory circuits in the radio, the slide motors and the CO, LP and smoke/fire detectors (if they are also 12 VDC powered). Some trailers also have a remote control system. It's a "tossup" as to whether it is off or on with the bypass switch. Mine is operational. A friend has the same model trailer and his turns off with the bypass switch.
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:35 PM   #24
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It is my understanding that the factory disconnect switch basically opens the circuit from the battery to the DC portion of the Power Distribution Panel. Therefore any DC device not powered/fused at the power distribution panel will remain powered up, wired/fused directly to the battery, when that disconnect switch is opened. Disconnect switch open and the converter does not charge the battery while connected to shore power.
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:14 PM   #25
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I realize that internal factory installed battery disconnects probably do it right and keep propane detectors and the emergency brake switch hot. My question was prompted by the series of posts and pictures of the owner installed disconnects mounted on or near the battery. I’m pretty sure if you break the neutral to the frame with the disconnect the emergency brake switch won’t work. So with that thought going down the road and having a seperation of TV and TT will get a lot more interesting than normal if that could be considered normal!
So I’m thinking if you are going to install one that the positive hot lead should have the disconnect in it and the hot lead to the brake switch should be run directly to the battery positive terminal with whatever protective thermal device is in series with it now.
I ask these questions not to be a PITA but none of the postings I have seen regarding user installed disconnects mention or consider the brake disconnect. Not a problem if you switch the battery back in prior to hitting the road but with my current state of memory I for sure would forget at least once which is too much!
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:20 PM   #26
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if you put your fridge on you wont forgrt
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:36 PM   #27
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if you put your fridge on you wont forgrt
This is true and maybe I’m making too much of it but I believe that the brake switch is hardwired for a reason and to your point if getting your camper ready for a trip you would have the switch on for the preparation. But what happens when you are just taking it over to your BIL,s for some work or to the dealer who could be some distance away? I don’t think you are going to be concerned about the lights or fridge. And even if you notice that the lights don’t work are you going to go flip the disconnect switch to on?
I’m a great believer in Mr. Murphy.
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Old 01-30-2018, 07:39 PM   #28
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You do know that if you take the battery out, you have to put it back in before the brakes work. It's pretty simple, turn the battery disconnect back on and then things work in the trailer, you don't turn it on nothing works in the trailer.

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Old 01-30-2018, 07:41 PM   #29
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Break away switch is wired directly from the battery. Connection is usually in the junction box for the 7 way (umbilical) cord.

Break away has two wires. One side to the battery and the other side to the brake circuit ( blue wire ) in the junction box.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:08 PM   #30
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Chuckster, did not know that! Takes a lot of the concern of the disconnect switch being in either pos or neg. Will have to check my own rig to see how they do that. So you are saying this is universal amongst most manufacturers?
Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:16 PM   #31
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If you have electric landing gear or an electric tongue jack and you wire a battery cutoff switch to the negative terminal on the battery, you can't hitch the trailer unless you turn that switch on. So, you can't tow without power to the break-away switch (unless you turn that switch off again after you hitch the trailer to your tow vehicle.

If you're still using "shoulder/arm power" to lift the tongue, then, yup, you'll need some memory cells left to be sure that you have power to the break-away switch.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:18 PM   #32
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Chuckster, on reconsideration as I had mentioned earlier it is my belief that the only connection to the TT frame is the single large white (usually) wire from the neg terminal so if the disconnect is in that wire and left open there will be no power to the brakes?
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:21 PM   #33
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Another good point on ways that you will be forced to turn battery switch on! I will still be developing my upper torso while forgetting why I am doing it!
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:35 AM   #34
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Chuckster, on reconsideration as I had mentioned earlier it is my belief that the only connection to the TT frame is the single large white (usually) wire from the neg terminal so if the disconnect is in that wire and left open there will be no power to the brakes?

ADDING a disconnect at the battery lead(s) would disrupt power to the break away. My comment was referring to the factory set up.
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Old 01-31-2018, 03:46 AM   #35
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I never understood the reason to have safety devises/detectors on in an RV that's in storage with no one inside...useless in my opinion.
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:42 AM   #36
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So dissconect always

So for those that park/store their unit for a couple weeks at a time unused, you either have a true power disconnect or you disconnect the terminals from the battery? Only choice to not drain it after a few weeks is what I am understanding. Even with the manufactures battery disconnect (due to several things still being powered).
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:59 AM   #37
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So for those that park/store their unit for a couple weeks at a time unused, you either have a true power disconnect or you disconnect the terminals from the battery? Only choice to not drain it after a few weeks is what I am understanding. Even with the manufactures battery disconnect (due to several things still being powered).
Correct...
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Old 01-31-2018, 12:22 PM   #38
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Is there a purpose for the current disconnect switch or can I simply re purpose the switch that they provided?
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Old 01-31-2018, 12:41 PM   #39
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Is there a purpose for the current disconnect switch or can I simply re purpose the switch that they provided?
I like to think of it as "disconnect some stuff".
I don't see any reason why you can't repurpose it, assuming it setup to be able to pass full-draw amperage.
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Old 01-31-2018, 01:47 PM   #40
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Is there a purpose for the current disconnect switch or can I simply re purpose the switch that they provided?
You can "repurpose" the switch, but remember that when you remove "all power" from the trailer, you lose your ability to monitor for LP leaks and in some trailers, you also lose the ability to monitor CO and smoke/fire. Additionally, if you use your radio presets and time function, they will all be "reset to zero" when you turn power back on at your "re-purposed" switch.

In some trailers, you may also lose any presets on an automatic leveling system and the remote (if you have one) may also lose connection between the handset and the receiver.

One of the considerations at the factory to wire it as it is was to maintain safety systems operational and to allow operation of the slides, hitch/pin raising system and the braking system. I'd suspect that many people would "tow away to paradise" without even realizing they don't have any ability to slow their trailer if it happened to disconnect. So, it's probably as much a "keep them safe in spite of themselves" kind of consideration as it is a "they will never understand what they did if we wire it differently and they'll sue us at every opportunity" kind off mentality.

Right or wrong, if the switch were wired at the factory to disconnect all power, the batteries might last longer in storage, but how many people would wind up towing without any means of stopping a runaway trailer? It sort of comes down to the question of convenience at what cost to individual and public safety?
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