Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Tires, Tires, Tires!
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-05-2018, 06:38 AM   #21
xrated
Senior Member
 
xrated's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: "Murvil, TN
Posts: 2,198
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
In the end you will be glad you are running with 14 ply tires instead of 10 ply. Your guy did your a favor but should have called and explained before and gotten your approval. 10 ply tires on a toy hauler is on the edge
That totally depends on the TH. I have one that has a 13K GVWR. I also run Maxxis 8008 tires (235-80R/16) with a rated load capacity of 3420 at 80psi. That's 13,680 total for four tires. My CAT scale weight is usually right at 12,400 - 12-500 lbs. Tongue weight is right at 1350 lbs so that puts 11,150 lbs on the four tires. Divide that by 4 and each tire is carrying approx. 2788.....which is approx 630 lbs less than each tire is rated. That means each tire is at 80% capacity when inflated to its sidewall pressure number of 80 psi.
__________________
2016 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab Dually Diesel 4x4
2018 Grand Design Momentum 394M
2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000GT+
Excessive payload capacity is a wonderful thing

"If it ain't Fast....It ain't Fun"
xrated is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2018, 07:03 AM   #22
Barbell
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 375
Running less than the recommended pressure in LR G tires so they ride easier defeats the purpose of the heavier tires. It also causes abnormal wear on the tread edges when you run them underinflated. We have roughly 20,000 miles on a set of Sailuns. Pressure is maintained at 110 psi. Tires show no sign of tread wear and the rig pulls easier and is more stable than with the OE GY Marathons. Follow the mfg. recommendations; you are paying for that expertise; use it.
Barbell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2018, 12:20 PM   #23
CWtheMan
Senior Member
 
CWtheMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Taylors, SC
Posts: 3,031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbell View Post
Running less than the recommended pressure in LR G tires so they ride easier defeats the purpose of the heavier tires. It also causes abnormal wear on the tread edges when you run them underinflated. We have roughly 20,000 miles on a set of Sailuns. Pressure is maintained at 110 psi. Tires show no sign of tread wear and the rig pulls easier and is more stable than with the OE GY Marathons. Follow the mfg. recommendations; you are paying for that expertise; use it.
A tire is not underinflated unless it is carrying a load below what the vehicle manufacturer recommended on the tire placard for the OE tires.

Tire manufacturers do not recommend inflation pressures. They provide the information needed/necessary for tire installers to insure the tires - original, new or otherwise - are inflated to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.
CWtheMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2018, 07:54 AM   #24
larryflew
Senior Member
 
larryflew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Young America MN
Posts: 372
An old trick we used to use on classic cars when changing to big fat tires etc was to paint a stripe across the treads of a tire (chalk would work if you don't drive too far) and drive the vehicle long enough to heat up the tires. Check the stripe. If correct air pressure for the load the paint or chalk will be worn off evenly. If worn more ion edges you are underinflated and if worn more on center you are overinflated. This will actually be telling you how your tires will wear.

BTW they were not "classic" then but neither was I.
larryflew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2018, 10:57 AM   #25
ReadyToRoll
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 28
If the tires needed replacement then the dealer did you a favor by going to the 14pr tire. Had a Keystone and went from the 12pr to the 14. Can say honestly that the wear was better and think you will find the sidewall flex also better which probably would equate to less sway when passing or being passed and on turns. As for tire pressure, use what the original tire placard recommended and you will be fine. Could even split the difference but watch for center tread wear by doing so. More expensive tire but think you will be far better off in the long run plus a tougher tire. I towed 12k through Alaska and the 14pr tire wore much better as well. Would never go back to 12pr. Just my opinion.
ReadyToRoll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2018, 11:40 AM   #26
Cracker
Senior Member
 
Cracker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Maine
Posts: 103
Mounting higher capacity tires doesn’t do a thing for the remaining wheels, axles, springs, shackles, and even the trailer chassis - with respect to their capacity limitations. I kept waiting for someone to mention that.
Cracker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2018, 11:29 AM   #27
CWtheMan
Senior Member
 
CWtheMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Taylors, SC
Posts: 3,031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracker View Post
Mounting higher capacity tires doesn’t do a thing for the remaining wheels, axles, springs, shackles, and even the trailer chassis - with respect to their capacity limitations. I kept waiting for someone to mention that.
The items I've underlined above have specs based on other factors such as GAWR & GVWR limits. Installing higher load capacity tires does nothing to change those limits. It just adds additional supporting load capacity for - hopefully - the tires to last longer.

Replacement wheel/tire assemblies that have not been approved by the vehicle manufacturer cannot be held accountable for any chassis problems that may develop due to their misapplication.

Side bar: When your vehicle owner's manual has a vehicle manufacturer recommendation for approval and it relates to an item of equipment that is safety related, chances are, it was put in the manual as directed by DOT. The vehicle manufacturer can always point a finger at it, and say, "I told you so".
CWtheMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2018, 12:08 PM   #28
ChuckS
Senior Member
 
ChuckS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Posts: 2,977
Well nice long read with lots of great input. In the end..... the 14 ply tires will most likely outlast ANY E rated 10 ply tires on the market. Assuming proper cold inflation pressures are adhered to and reasonable towing speed for a toy hauler... 62 to 65 mph...

The Fuzion 301 should have come with 7K axles so bearings, springs , etc should also be fine provided the wet bolts are lubed periodically. If installed...
__________________


2007 GMC Classic club cab 4x4 Duramax LBZ
2014 Alpine 3010 RE. 34 foot fifth wheel
ChuckS is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2018, 03:01 PM   #29
Cracker
Senior Member
 
Cracker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Maine
Posts: 103
I think that, IMHO, the question of whether or not a higher rated tire will last longer at the trailer manufacturers recommended pressure and load designations, than the OEM lower rated tire, will have to remain moot. The same question could be asked about whether running the higher rated tire at it’s maximum pressure will result in a longer tire life than that of the OEM rated tire. I just replaced a tire today that, due to making a trip to Ohio in a blizzard (—-the storm that buried Boston), and my being too damn cold to check the inflation, the tire was over-inflated and wore the center tread bald. This was a case where the combined weight of the trailer and its’ Model A Ford cargo was only about half of the 7000 lb capacity on the trailers two axles. That said, it really doesn’t matter because the tire in question, as well as the remaining tires, are too age-cracked (4 year old damn cheap tires) for another long trip. In my opinion, run anything you want to - just replace them every 4 or 5 years!
Cracker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2018, 05:28 AM   #30
ctbruce
Site Team | Emeritus
 
ctbruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,878
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracker View Post
I think that, IMHO, the question of whether or not a higher rated tire will last longer at the trailer manufacturers recommended pressure and load designations, than the OEM lower rated tire, will have to remain moot. The same question could be asked about whether running the higher rated tire at it’s maximum pressure will result in a longer tire life than that of the OEM rated tire. I just replaced a tire today that, due to making a trip to Ohio in a blizzard (—-the storm that buried Boston), and my being too damn cold to check the inflation, the tire was over-inflated and wore the center tread bald. This was a case where the combined weight of the trailer and its’ Model A Ford cargo was only about half of the 7000 lb capacity on the trailers two axles. That said, it really doesn’t matter because the tire in question, as well as the remaining tires, are too age-cracked (4 year old damn cheap tires) for another long trip. In my opinion, run anything you want to - just replace them every 4 or 5 years!
Well said, and as John (JRTJH) said earlier, tires will age out before they wear out. In the end, they go in the trash pile, not passed on to someone else.
__________________

Chip Bruce, RPh
Kansas City, MO
2016 Impact 312
2017 Silverado 3500HD SRW
ctbruce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2018, 02:49 PM   #31
johnlewis
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Green Valley
Posts: 124
I agree that higher rated tires is better, but the tire pressure should be based on the actual load on the tire vs the tire load rating. Tire manufacturers have to produce a chart that allows you to determine what the tire pressure should be for your tire load. The tire distributor should have this info, or should be able to direct you to where that information is on the tire manufacturer's website.
Too low a pressure heats the tires too much - there are more tire failures from under pressure than any other cause. Tire pressures too high wear the tires in the middle too much. The guys who replaced your tires should help you with "real" answers, like the info you need for correct tire pressure, since they made money on this deal.
johnlewis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2018, 12:34 PM   #32
CWtheMan
Senior Member
 
CWtheMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Taylors, SC
Posts: 3,031
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlewis View Post
I agree that higher rated tires is better, but the tire pressure should be based on the actual load on the tire vs the tire load rating. Tire manufacturers have to produce a chart that allows you to determine what the tire pressure should be for your tire load. The tire distributor should have this info, or should be able to direct you to where that information is on the tire manufacturer's website.
Too low a pressure heats the tires too much - there are more tire failures from under pressure than any other cause. Tire pressures too high wear the tires in the middle too much. The guys who replaced your tires should help you with "real" answers, like the info you need for correct tire pressure, since they made money on this deal.

In a perfect set of conditions, inflating tires to the load carried, as an option, is acceptable as long as the inflation pressures are at or above vehicle manufacturer cold recommended settings (most Original Equipment RV trailer tires are already set at sidewall max). But, still risky because any slight loss of inflation pressures will cause the tire to be under inflated, thus overloaded.

Going back to the “perfect conditions”. According to government statistics, there are very few RV trailers that have even weight distribution on both ends of an axle. When that situation cannot be corrected the industry standard is to inflate all tires on an axle to the same PSI value. The certified GAWR must not be exceeded. So, on a 4000# GAWR axle you could have 2200# on one side and 1800# on the other side. The inflation pressure for both sides must be enough to support the 2200# side and be equal to it on the other end. If over the 4000# the only alternative is to get the load off the axle until it’s down to max GAWR.

Even though trailer tires and car/SUV/pick-up truck tires are all fitted to vehicles in accordance with FMVSS standards, there are variations. RV trailer tire fitments do not require any load capacity reserves. Their fitments are deemed “appropriate” fitments according to that particular trailer manufacturer’s standards.

Brand name XXX builds a tire sized ST225/75R15 LRD and another sized ST225/75R15 LRE. All of their exterior statistics will be the same. Therefore, they will both use the same load inflation chart. The difference being, load capacity. That additional load capacity is provided by some structural difference in manufacturing which is not identified on the materials listed on the tire’s sidewall. The LRE can carry more weight than the LRD. Only when inflated above the maximum limit of the LRD. IMO, any added durability is strictly coincidental.

Like any other highway tire, the ST tire is designed to operate at the inflation pressure molded into its sidewall. That PSI value has been determined by the tire manufacturer to be the amount of cold inflation needed for the tire to be able to carry its maximum load capacity, also listed on its sidewall.
CWtheMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
tires

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.