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Old 05-03-2015, 04:17 PM   #21
Sherwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Why even use a carptenter's level, just "turn loose a bag of kids marbles and you'll probably find them all in the corners, or in the center of the room. My bet is they won't be where you emptied the bag.
Reading that made my feet hurt from thinking about stepping on them with my bare feet when I first wake up.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:51 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Sherwood View Post
Reading that made my feet hurt from thinking about stepping on them with my bare feet when I first wake up.
Legos are what I remember stepping on when the boys were little.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:36 AM   #23
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For us , the most important thing to be level or even a little high, is at the head of the bed. The fridge does not need to be perfectly level, in fact I've run it off level many times (parked on the street for example). I installed my stick on levels after leveling the frame all around, but that doesn't mean the shower, floor, or tables are going to be level, but close enough. We used to use a can of unopened soda placed north/south then east/west for example, on the floor and counter space, to fine tune leveling which works better than anything.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:44 AM   #24
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We put one stick on level in the back, and one on the side. We use those to level and that gets it close enough most times. As was said above, we like to have the head of the bed just a tad high. I would guess my side sticker isn't perfect lol.

I've tried the fancy electronic level you can place in the middle of the camper to help level. It works good, but for the most part when tested against my stick on's, it is pretty much spot on.
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:50 PM   #25
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Quick, Cheap and Easy!.... Take a Rocks Glass from the cabinet. Fill it to about 1/2" shy of overflowing... set it on the counter (or anywhere else you are concerned about that you want to be level). With the naked eye, most of us can get pretty darn "close to level" by checking the rim to water distance ratio x 360 degrees.

When done... drink the water (or whatever other beverage of choice, add rocks), and enjoy your stay!
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:54 PM   #26
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I too used to try various levels on various floors and frames. Then I added a side and front level at the front corner of the TT right behind the drivers side so it was easy to get to. Then I sold that TT and on the new one and it had a handy dandy circle bubble leveler built right into the top of the power tongue jack. Had three screws and a spring underneath so you could adjust it. All you had to do was go through the hastle of the 4' level, one time, get it good, and then adjust the screws. Then........a certain repair shop bent that power tongue jack somehow and put on a new one for me. I took the old bubble level and rigged it up, and it works just the same, just not nearly as pretty looking. I too, as others have said, keep the front end up a bit high whenever possible. Mainly so my head is higher than my toes when sleeping! It also helps the shower drain better.
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:01 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladyhawke View Post
We can put a level on several different places in and around the trailer (on tongue, on frame, on bumper, inside front storage compartment, inside trailer near door) and get so many different readings.
That was your first big mistake, too many levels. We have one stick on level at the back of the camper and we level side to side. One stick on level on the tongue, level front to back. With no other measurements to compare to, we just center the bubble and move on. Ignorance is bliss.
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:44 AM   #28
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The last time we took it out, we used a level in the refrigerator. This worked very well and gave us peace of mind for deploying the slide. We have discovered when we are off level that the bathroom door will not stay open so this is a good indicator also.
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:50 AM   #29
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I use levels on the frount and side corner on drivers side
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Old 05-22-2015, 06:28 AM   #30
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In my last camper (new one has a 6 point system) I set the camper where I wanted it, used a level to make sure it was close and then placed the bubble levels on the corners right next to the landing gear switch. The main thing I wanted was, as already mentioned, the head of the bed at least level to slightly above. I went with slightly above because that also made sure the pocket sliding door for the bedroom stayed closed.
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Old 06-13-2015, 08:41 AM   #31
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I have an app on my phone for a level. It does your normal side level and the bubble level option. I like to get as close as possible, but won't spend more than 5 minutes on it. I just don't want to FEEL like we're not level. Before I finish setting up, I just check the frame by the hitch and then the middle of the RV inside the RV. If I'm walking and stumbling to the left obv something has to change, but overall if things seem fine, it's not a problem. Granted if I was staying somewhere more than a few days, I'd prob spend some more time on it, but otherwise I just choose the most level spot and get to enjoying the weekend.
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:34 AM   #32
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From my reading, fridge aren't nearly as sensitive to being level as they used to be. I use a 6" magnetic torpedo level across, and fore/aft on the tongue frame and call it good. As long as our bathroom door isn't opening/closing itself if unlatched, I'm happy and everything always works.
Don't spend time messing about which you could spend camping.
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:36 PM   #33
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As far as the fridge being level goes. Is it level when you are going down the road? It still works, right?
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:52 PM   #34
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The only time you should worry about the fridge being level is if it sits for an extended period out of level. Going down the road the constant motion keeps the ammonia mixture stirred up.
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:56 PM   #35
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I use the LevelMate Pro system. I've had it for 2 complete camping seasons and it makes levelling almost like cheating. I combine the LM Pro system with the Anderson levellers and as I'm backing into the site, I stop, put the levellers under both tires on the same side and continue backing up till my LM Pro phone app shows me I'm level side to side. After unhooking from the truck, I use the tongue jack to raise or lower the trailer until LM Pro tells me I'm level. Easy-peasy!
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Old 01-26-2019, 07:33 AM   #36
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Two things that are the most important:
1. Make sure the fridge is level (between the lines is good enough)
2. Make sure the stove is level enough to make the DW happy.
A happy wife is a happy life!
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:50 AM   #37
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Trailer flex. Going down the road and from site to site. If two sites are perfectly level you would get different reading at both. Suspension binding, tires. Get it close and be Happy. I've installed presses that weigh hundreds of tons and they move.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:15 AM   #38
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I got Anderson leveling chocks and I'm impressed set of 4 with a nice case . When I'm in dought I go the the bobble level in the refrigerator.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:36 AM   #39
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I got Anderson leveling chocks and I'm impressed set of 4 with a nice case . When I'm in dought I go the the bobble level in the refrigerator.
You will probably be OK with them, but not so great for heavier trailers. One of the members on the Grand Design forum who has a Momentum 397 (20,000 lbs GVWR) broke like 10 of the 11 that he had. He started out with 6 of them for his 6 leveling legs, and they started breaking. Anderson replaced them and they still kept breaking. Finally, after the 10 out of 11 broke, he gave up on them and started using the RV Snap Pads. I just bought a six pack of them and will be putting them on the levelers soon.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:21 PM   #40
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When the bathroom door doesn’t open or close on its own, I’m level.
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