Bearings

[SAABDOCTOR]

THE Easy lube is a great cheat and that is what it is. a cheat. good for a quick shot of lube. As Chuckster and others have said nothing beats taking the drum off so you can inspect the brakes and clean and inspect the bearings before repacking them. If you have never done it before ask for help. Do not just sock down the center nut!

[Stanomatic]

Thank goodness for this forum thread. Not realizing at all that I had to do that maintenance on a 2015 Fuzion 371 with 5500 miles, I was told by Windish RV that I should have them done before my trek up to Alaska. They quoted me $450. I had heart failure and denial. I thought the same thing, grab a grease gun and fill up.

I called another trailer shop which specializes in the trailers you haul stuff in and not RV type and they quoted me $250. I saw on another post in this thread to do the work for $160 for four wheels. Maybe I will shop around a bit.
Anyway, I will get this done and great thread.

Stan

[Povo]

So, as I am not a mechanic (and not really interested in becoming one), what I need to do is maintain a good maintenance schedule along with a basic knowledge of the rig. In this case, every one to two years have the bearings repacked and brakes inspected. Sound right?

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Povo

So, as I am not a mechanic (and not really interested in becoming one), what I need to do is maintain a good maintenance schedule along with a basic knowledge of the rig. In this case, every one to two years have the bearings repacked and brakes inspected. Sound right?

I would have them checked once a year. Your choice start or end of season, but End of season means one less thing to get ready for the next one.

[slow]

What is recommended for cleaning bearings prior to manually repacking with grease?

Google turns up conflicting recommendations and Dexter provides no information on cleaning or cleaners.

[chuckster57]

I use Simple Green diluted in water. Warm solution works real good. Once clean you can spray "rinse" with brake cleaner to clean any moisture out.

[jtyphoid]

Anything that will clean greasy parts should work. Chuckster57 has a good suggestion to do a final rinse with a fast evaporating solvent like brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, or similar.

[slow]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I assume you are referring to chlorinated brake cleaner.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by slow

Thanks for the suggestions.

I assume you are referring to chlorinated brake cleaner.

Yeah. But out here we can only get non chlorinated.

[gearhead]

I like to use diesel. If using aerosol brake cleaner it can leave condensation on the bearings because the brake cleaner is cold. Dry with paper towels and set in the sun.
Anyone else see the letter to Trailer Life this month about greasing bearings annually? Page 109.

[outwest]

My father used to use diesel as well (he also sometimes used gasoline, but that was back in the days before unleaded. Worth mentioning - gasoline is way more dangerous than diesel because the vapors are highly flammable and don't readily dissipate)

Just had my shade tree mechanic guy do my bearings yesterday and he merely wiped with paper towels, then sprayed with aerosol brake cleaner.

[dcg9381]

diesel here... Removes the grease and as a light oil, no issues using it on a metal surface.

[slow]

FYI: I gave Dexter service and warranty a call this morning and spoke with a very helpful and pleasant gentleman call Glenn.

His recommendations (when not using the same grease that was already used in the bearings or if the grease is contaminated/dirty) were:

* take the time to wipe down the bearings very well with lint free shop rags
* use brake cleaner to get the balance of the grease off the bearing and between the rollers
* let the bearings dry fully before packing with new grease
* do not let the bearing spin when drying with compressed air
* clean the hub cavity and races the same way
* pack the bearings with Dexter approved grease listed in the manual
* install a new seal using a flat block, not a hammer directly on the seal

Before reinstalling the hub/bearings
*inject the new grease through the spindle grease fitting to drive out the old grease from the spindle if EZ-lube is installed
* check the brake shoes for wear and replace if necessary
* after releasing the two brake springs, use aluminum based anti-seize lubricant sparingly behind the magnet and lever support points and generously at the pivot point, but avoid getting anti-seize on the brake pads
* run the star nut to expose the threads and apply anti-seize on the threads, then run the star nut back over the anti-seize

After reinstalling the hub, installing the outer bearing and doing the preload procedure per the Dexter manual, adjust the manual brakes as follows:
* turn star nut until the wheel locks and the star nut no longer turns easily
* turn the star nut the opposite direction 5 to 7 "clicks" (pick 5, 6 or 7 clicks)
* adjust the other wheel the same way and use the exact same number of clicks as the first brake that was adjusted (5, 6 or 7 clicks) since trying to detect "drag" is inconsistent

If using the same grease as previously installed, a shop rag wipe down to allow inspection of bearings, WITHOUT final clean with brake cleaner is all that is required unless the grease is contaminated. If contaminated, do the full cleaning procedure using brake cleaner.

The phone number to Dexter is 574-295-7888 and ask for Glenn.

[dcg9381]

I'd like Glenn to work on my axles!

[slow]

Originally Posted by dcg9381

I'd like Glenn to work on my axles!

He mentioned that he wrenched for over 30 years and that he was sharing what he does and taught his son. Glenn is the kind of guy you wish was your neighbor. One of the best company representatives I have dealt with.

[JRTJH]

Slow,

Great explanation from Dexter. Thanks for posting !!!

I've always adjusted my brakes by turning the wheel while adjusting the star-nut until the WHEEL locked, then backing it off "just until the wheel turns freely".... I've never considered turning the star-nut until IT locked, then backing it off a specific number of clicks (5-7). Thinking about it, as long as the brake shoes/brake drum are properly seated, that would be much simpler and easier to do since it can be done without jacking the wheel off the ground. This spring, when I adjust the brakes (I packed the bearings in the fall but didn't get the brakes adjusted) I'm going to try that method. I'll post how it works once I get a chance to tow.

Again, thanks for posting !!!

[slow]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

...............I've always adjusted my brakes by turning the wheel while adjusting the star-nut until the WHEEL locked, then backing it off "just until the wheel turns freely".... I've never considered turning the star-nut until IT locked, then backing it off a specific number of clicks (5-7). Thinking about it, as long as the brake shoes/brake drum are properly seated, that would be much simpler and easier to do since it can be done without jacking the wheel off the ground. This spring, when I adjust the brakes (I packed the bearings in the fall but didn't get the brakes adjusted) I'm going to try that method. I'll post how it works once I get a chance to tow.
................

Good point about not having to elevate wheels to adjust the brakes using that procedure. I did not think of that. But out of habit and peace of mind, I plan to still have the wheel off the ground and spin it to confirm it is free to rotate after adjusting the brakes since they will be elevated for the bearing packing anyways. If nothing else, it would confirm what number of clicks to use going forward without lifting wheels.

[outwest]

Thanks for that info, Slow, appreciate it!

[SkiSmuggs]

Originally Posted by gearhead

I'll opine again:
I pumped through the grease zerk on my Dexter axles when I bought the trailer, but very carefully. I lifted the wheel and spun it as I pumped. Two years later I pulled the hubs and the seals were still intact. That said the EZ Lube feature is an invitation to trouble.
My opinion, after 40 years of dealing with rotating equipment, is that if the bearings are properly sized and the bearing itself is of decent manufacture, the bearings should go 5-7 years and 50,000 miles without maintenance.
By recommending annual inspections I believe the axle manufacturers realize that the RV manufacturers are sizing axles too low, the end users are likely overloading them, and the bearings themselves are not of the highest quality. And they are in a CYA mode regarding warranty.

I think this is a good explanation. My idea of annual bearing maintenance is to raise the wheel and check for play. Too much play and the grease doesn't matter that much anyway. I've had one bearing failure and that was with a new truck, RV suspension "upgrade" that lowered the RV and I was way nose high which overloaded the rear axle. Had I done my daily maintenance of checking the hubs for heat when I arrived at the campground, I would have not had the failure. I think the daily maintenance is more important. Re-packing and brake inspection are more dependent on mileage rather than time. Low mileage; every 5 years. High mileage, every year or two.
I had the pin box replaced with MorRyde and raised to the highest position and their CRE3000 equalizers which raised the fiver to level. And at 4, years and over 20,000 miles had the bearings pack and brakes inspected.

[SkiSmuggs]

I read the good Dexter post and replies to it on brake adjustment. It said to "turn star nut until the wheel locks and the star nut no longer turns easily." It sounded to me like some interpreted that as until the nut locks, but I see it as until the wheel locks. That requires the wheel be elevated for spinning. Am I wrong?