What hitch?

[jsmith948]

To the OP: As you can see, there are many varied opinions as to which hitch is best. Having a long bed truck, you don't have the need for a slider. As stated above - make sure you buy a hitch rated for more than your trailer weighs - just for an added margin. FWIW, we use a 16K Reese sliding hitch. Works great - although it can be a little noisy when negotiating speed humps (gotta luv'em) because of the slack between the rollers and the slider tubes. Lots of folks like the Andersen because of its light weight. However, be advised, you will need safety chains with a 'ball type' hitch. Our hitch and slider weigh about 165# - not sure what it would weigh without the slider - probably quite a bit less. As far as the in bed industry standard rails are concerned, we have never had a problem loading sheet goods or lumber. In fact, the bed rails have been handy tie-down points on several occasions. Good luck with your choice.

[Frank G]

Wish I could take psychology 101 over again, so much to learn about "drinking the Kool-Aid".

[JRTJH]

All three of the truck manufacturers have an option available that it seems all the "buy this brand" have omitted. The "factory puck" option gives an alternative to the clean bed/rails in the bed issue. So there's yet another "option" that hasn't yet been offered to this "highly controversial/opinionated" question. That said:

What hitch? It's been candidly illustrated here that question "lives in the same realm" of What truck? What tire? What qualities are best in a spouse? What school should you encourage your children to attend? or the host of other "OPINIONS AND PREFERENCES" we all have.

What hitch to buy has to remain a "pro/con" question for each of us to ask/answer based on much information that the rest of us simply don't have available. Heck, I'm a "Ford guy" but if the nearest Ford dealership was 100miles away and I lived next door to the GM/Chevy dealership and there was a RAM dealer across the street???? No matter how good any of the trucks might be, that's information none of the "advisors" on the forum would have included in their suggestions on what truck to buy. The point I'm making is that none of us are privy to all the factors that are important to someone 1,000 miles away and none of us are "inside their head" when we're giving advice on such a topic as "which XXX is best for me?"......

It's the same with hitches.... Probably the best answer would be, Buy the one you like, feel comfortable with, can get serviced, know something about, costs in your price range, is large enough for the trailer you have, and so much more that is on "YOUR" specific "pro/con" list.

Let's don't lose sight of the realization that "what's best for us might not even be a consideration for someone else." I suppose we all need to take a step back and not get "insulted or upset" because someone else sees the question through a different set of eyes.......

[notanlines]

I realize the three or four of you are kind of having a "back and forth" (and fairly politely I might add) but I did want all of you to know that I'm kind of having a learning moment here. We are in the process of selling our Raptor and headed to a slightly heavier RV and I'm not sure if I want to give up our 20K Reese Slider for a different system. Let the games continue....

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by jsmith948

To the OP: As you can see, there are many varied opinions as to which hitch is best. Having a long bed truck, you don't have the need for a slider. As stated above - make sure you buy a hitch rated for more than your trailer weighs - just for an added margin. FWIW, we use a 16K Reese sliding hitch. Works great - although it can be a little noisy when negotiating speed humps (gotta luv'em) because of the slack between the rollers and the slider tubes. Lots of folks like the Andersen because of its light weight. However, be advised, you will need safety chains with a 'ball type' hitch. Our hitch and slider weigh about 165# - not sure what it would weigh without the slider - probably quite a bit less. As far as the in bed industry standard rails are concerned, we have never had a problem loading sheet goods or lumber. In fact, the bed rails have been handy tie-down points on several occasions. Good luck with your choice.

It depends on the state (or local LEO opinion) as to whether chains are required for the Andersen hitch. I don't use chains.

[Outback 325BH]

So... what is the deal with this Andersen hitch? Why not just use a 5th wheel hitch? Is there some benefit, or is it some jury-rig to avoid buying a proper 5th wheel hitch?


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[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Outback 325BH

So... what is the deal with this Andersen hitch? Why not just use a 5th wheel hitch? Is there some benefit, or is it some jury-rig to avoid buying a proper 5th wheel hitch?


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I think the biggest draw is the weight and ease that you can remove it from your bed. I have had traditional non sliders in my TV's since '89. Its what I grew up with and it works so I am staying with it. I have seen customers pull in with the Anderson, and yeah just like the ones with a capture plate, we have to remove some things to move them around with a forklift.

[captcolour]

I have a new 2017 F-350 with the Ford factory puck system and the Ford supplied hitch which is a Reese RE25. I use a chain hoist to remove the hitch so no issue for me with weight. The factory puck is nice as the bed is clear once the hitch is lifted out.

First pic is before bed liner. Second pic is hitch out after bed liner installed.

My hoist chain is in the bucket hanging above the truck in the second pic.

[Frank G]

Originally Posted by captcolour

I have a new 2017 F-350 with the Ford factory puck system and the Ford supplied hitch which is a Reese RE25. I use a chain hoist to remove the hitch so no issue for me with weight. The factory puck is nice as the bed is clear once the hitch is lifted out.

First pic is before bed liner. Second pic is hitch out after bed liner installed.

My hoist chain is in the bucket hanging above the truck in the second pic.

That is a nice setup, if only there was a SAE puck standard. The OP never qualified his/her vehicle or wishes. That led to a lot of confusion.

[John&Genny]

Originally Posted by Desert185

It depends on the state (or local LEO opinion) as to whether chains are required for the Andersen hitch. I don't use chains.

I also have the Andersen hitch, but when it comes to a possible safety advantage in using a option such as the chains, then I'll take that option The chain kit was only $65 and was fairly easy to install if you have a torque wrench.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by captcolour

I have a new 2017 F-350 with the Ford factory puck system and the Ford supplied hitch which is a Reese RE25. I use a chain hoist to remove the hitch so no issue for me with weight. The factory puck is nice as the bed is clear once the hitch is lifted out.

First pic is before bed liner. Second pic is hitch out after bed liner installed.

My hoist chain is in the bucket hanging above the truck in the second pic.

I have the same hitch, I just remove it in two pieces... by hand..

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by Javi

I have the same hitch, I just remove it in two pieces... by hand..

I have my 10 year old granddaughter do mine. Its "jury rigged," so its pretty lightweight.

[kfxgreenie]

Originally Posted by Outback 325BH

So... what is the deal with this Andersen hitch? Why not just use a 5th wheel hitch? Is there some benefit, or is it some jury-rig to avoid buying a proper 5th wheel hitch?


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Lets see, weight savings against SRW payloads, positive engagement of the pin without doing a pull test or dropping the 5er on your bed rails. Less moving parts, chucking. Simplicity, KISS method works well here. Isn't any jury-rig going on.

I will say a Reese goose box would be even better yet, but it would be much harder to hook up. With the Andersen I can look out the rear window and watch the coupler and ball line up.

[Outback 325BH]

Originally Posted by kfxgreenie

Lets see, weight savings against SRW payloads, positive engagement of the pin without doing a pull test or dropping the 5er on your bed rails. Less moving parts, chucking. Simplicity, KISS method works well here. Isn't any jury-rig going on.



I will say a Reese goose box would be even better yet, but it would be much harder to hook up. With the Andersen I can look out the rear window and watch the coupler and ball line up.

Hmmm... I'll stick with balls for goose-necks and 5th wheel hitches for 5th wheels. The whole thing seems kind of hinky to me.

I currently own a TT, but have towed 5th wheel campers before. Hitching up a 5th wheel is pretty easy. Not sure of the problems you are describing.

Is this meant to be a work-around for no 5th wheel provision?

Seems to me, if you have a 5th wheel provision in your truck you would want to use an actual 5th wheel hitch.


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[Desert185]

Videos here and on Youtube that describe the concept:

www.andersenhitches.com

[Barbell]

Having had only three hitches, my experience is limited but I can say for sure that if I ever have to replace the current hitch (Curt 20K made for Ram puck system), it will be the Curt and definately not either of the two Reese hitches I have suffered thru. First Reese failed due to improper welds. Both Reeses were difficult to hook up and had severe chucking problems. No such problem with the Curt.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Barbell

Having had only three hitches, my experience is limited but I can say for sure that if I ever have to replace the current hitch (Curt 20K made for Ram puck system), it will be the Curt and definately not either of the two Reese hitches I have suffered thru. First Reese failed due to improper welds. Both Reeses were difficult to hook up and had severe chucking problems. No such problem with the Curt.

I'm also very happy with my Curt hitch . It's a 16k that we bought for our F150 and used it with bed rails to tow our Springdale. When we bought the F250 it had the Ford "puck system" so I bought a Reese adapter to convert the pucks to fit that hitch (at that time, Curt didn't have legs for any puck systems). Once we bought the new F250 (also with the puck system) I "bit the bullet" and bought the Curt "puck legs" to convert the hitch head to fit the Ford pucks. Like you, I've never had a problem with the Curt hitch. It's reliable, easy to hitch, unhitch and is as quiet as any hitch I've seen. Essentially, mine is, after the two interim conversions, a 16K version of your 20K hitch. I don't see any reason to look for a replacement hitch and if I ever did, I'd buy another Curt.

[John&Genny]

Originally Posted by Outback 325BH

Hmmm... I'll stick with balls for goose-necks and 5th wheel hitches for 5th wheels. The whole thing seems kind of hinky to me.

I currently own a TT, but have towed 5th wheel campers before. Hitching up a 5th wheel is pretty easy. Not sure of the problems you are describing.

Is this meant to be a work-around for no 5th wheel provision?

Seems to me, if you have a 5th wheel provision in your truck you would want to use an actual 5th wheel hitch.


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I think in most cases, if you have never used or rode in a rig with a Andersen hitch, you will never know it's advantages. So as they say, don't knock it unless you've tried it

[Javi]

Originally Posted by John&Genny

I think in most cases, if you have never used or rode in a rig with a Andersen hitch, you will never know it's advantages. So as they say, don't knock it unless you've tried it

I'll pass... I ain't gonna own no aluminum pickup or hitch... y'all go ahead without me...

Aluminum has a valid use for many things like antennas, beer cans and boats; but pickup beds and 5th wheel hitches ain't among 'em. And if I got to worry about the weight of my hitch I need a bigger truck....

[John&Genny]

Originally Posted by Javi

I'll pass... I ain't gonna own no aluminum pickup or hitch... y'all go ahead without me...

Aluminum has a valid use for many things like antennas, beer cans and boats; but pickup beds and 5th wheel hitches ain't among 'em. And if I got to worry about the weight of my hitch I need a bigger truck....

Actually Andersen uses aircraft grade alluminum, so if you don't trust it, perhaps you should refrain from flying in the future

And weight wasn't the advantage I was speaking of, but I digress. Each to thier own.