26sab cables for sewer dumps

[Ayotte]

Is anyone else having problems with the sewer dumps-hard to open and close? I think the cables are much to short and they are wound around making 180 degree turns. Seem like the valves get hard to move also-not in the valve but in the stem that comes out of the valve. Think that I might have to get longer cables and reroute them.

[JeffS]

We owned a 26SAB for about 3 years. The tank controls, I believe there were 3 of them, were always stiff but seemed to work OK. The "Black Tank" was the worst of the group.

[bg71361]

Mine were mildly stiff lubed them up and they are good now.

[BobnLee]

Mine are the same. Always stiff and the black tank is the worst. I'm a little hesitant to remove the belly skirting or whatever it is called to check it out. If you find a cure I would sure like to know

[Ayotte]

I have opened up some of the belly pan cover because the gray water valve was always leaking. Cable was not completely closing the valve. I think they should have longer cables on the black and gray valves. They are routed so that they have a very sharp 180 degree turn in them. The gray valve cable pushed out of the end and I have had to jb weld it back in. Think I will have to look at getting longer cables or possibly changing the valves are located if there is room to turn them around-now the cable control is facing forward and the control handle is behind them. And by the way there is no insulation at all in the underbelly!!!!

[BobnLee]

In the mean time I bought a Valterra knife valve that twisted onto my pipe. Just took off the cap and twisted on the valve put the cap back on and no more surprises when I take off the cap to dump. I gotta get around to fixing the valves once and for all

[Ayotte]

I did the same-that way if they do leak the last valve holds the leak. I am thinking about taking the gray and black valves apart and turning them so the cable control is towards the back of the camper and then rerouting the cables. This way they will have less twists and turns in them. The only thing that concerns me is that the control end of the valves will be a bit lower than they are now. Would this cause a problem?

[Onelick]

I have this same problem. How hard is it to mess with the "underbelly covering"? The last time we were out, we went to dump and I got a big surprise because the black tank valve didn't seat right. So now I have some work to do with both the valve and the underbelly covering.
Thanks for your help.

[Ayotte]

I just cut a 3 sides below where the valves are-just big enough to work through and when finished used a piece of wood and some small screws and duct tape over the cut to seal it back up.

[therink]

I just completed repair on my black valve and had to remove the entire 3" drain pipe, 3" Y fitting and both black and grey valves as one piece to service my black valve. This meant I had to open a 2' x 1.5' section of belly.
I went to a sign shop that works with vinyl graphics. They gave me a 2.5' x 2.5' piece of black chloroplast (same material as belly). I simply placed this piece over the section I opened and attached it with self tapping screws and sealed edges with Gorilla rape. Very professional looking and now I can access valves as needed.
Steve

[BobnLee]

Would anyone have a photo to see what Im getting into when I cut into the belly pan??

[therink]

Sorry. I didn't take photos. I can describe. It was easier than I thought it would be to work in there. If you have the same brand valve I do, it is fairly easy to remove the cables from the valve assembly.

[Ayotte]

Sorry, I didn't take any pics. If I have to open it up after our next weeks camping I will be sure to take some pictures and post them.

[Onelick]

I have mine still open, do you still need any pics?