Issues with Samsung residential/electric fridge not getting cold enough?

[twvette]

This fridge has been a thorn in my side in general since do mostly dry camping but that is a whole other story that have already posted about. On top of this, mine wont typically get below about 48 degrees even when cold outside and trailer is cool inside about 70 degrees, and doors closed for very long period. Freezer has no issues getting even below 0, its just the fridge. Increasing freezer to max of 8 also does not help fridge. My ice making feature is turned off. Since I am dry camping this occurs when running off inverter only power but plenty of juice in batteries as have big solar system and battery bank. Just a theory and likely not valid as does not seem to get any cooler when kick on generator for long period. I bought a good digital thermometer to verify the temps and it is also a bit strange that sometimes they differ by up 5 degrees so might also be some indication of a problem. Are any others struggling to get this fridge cool or known issues to check?

[ctbruce]

Read this in another forum so just a wild question. Do you know the light is going out and staying out? Someone suggested putting your phone in fridge set to video. Close the door and tow around to see what's happening inside. Light on equals extra heat.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[twvette]

Thanks, I will see if can check that. Seems a little strange that it could generate that much heat to effect this big fridge but have seen stranger things.

I had it at the dealer and still trying to sort out what was done to try and fix it but was informed these are also kinda a nightmare to get service. If I am reading between the lines properly of what I was told Keystone does want anything to do with it, Samsung gets confused by the fact its in an RV, and the repair shop that Samsung assigns the warranty ticket does'nt want much to do with coming out to a dealership and messing with a fridge in an RV. Great! So in the end nothing happened in the month this was at the dealership apparently. The list of frustrations with this thing continues to grow ...

[ctbruce]

I think the bottom line on these is that the residential fridges and boondocking are not the best combination. That is why Keystone offers the same models, one with residential and one with dual power source fridge. JMHO, take it for what it's worth....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[JRTJH]

I think that Keystone had a "learning curve" with residential refrigerators in their trailers. They still haven't got it completely solved, but are moving forward. I know that isn't what you want to hear as an owner of a "problem refrigerator" but I think it is what it is.....

When Keystone first started putting residential refrigerators in their units, there were no restrictions other than "it'll run as long as you have battery power for the inverter".... Now, as in the past manuals, in the 2018 Keystone Owner's Manual, they've included the "limitation" to the residential refrigerator section:

"By design, these refrigerators will not operate properly when indoor air temperatures exceed approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition, operating the refrigerator in these conditions could cause compressor failure which may not be considered warrantable. Leave the air conditioner set at a temperature below this if the refrigerator is left running in a vehicle that is not being used or shut it off."

What they don't say (which I think is just as important) is how the refrigerator will function between "comfortable RV cabin temperature" (70-80F) and their "upper limit" of 110F. Certainly, the refrigerator doesn't have a "magic switch" that causes it to not function at 110F, but rather I'd suppose there is some degraded performance as the temperature rises to that "110F limit". How the refrigerator functions, when the degradation starts and how much is "noticeable" ??? Those are "gray areas" where I don't think you're going to get good performance. What's the fine line between "good enough" and "it won't work" ???

I'm of the opinion that using an inverter driven system on a residential refrigerator in a hot environment is something that Keystone (and other manufacturers) haven't quite completely worked out yet. That's not a solution to your problem, I know. What I'm saying is: There may not be a "workaround" to fix your problem. Your refrigerator may simply not be capable of pumping out enough heat to keep the inside cool when you're dry camping without A/C in a desert situation during the summer.

[canesfan]

I think John brings up a good point. Keystone (and probably others) sometimes seems to "forget" people actually "camp" in these things. Not all of us go to RV parks with full hookups 100% of the time. Just like when they did away with the gravity water fill. DUH! They all of a sudden seemed to forget that we may need a way to add water to the tank without the availability of city water pressure. IMHO they are all getting way too into all the "bells and whistles and gadgets (can you say remote?) and forgetting about usability. I for one will not buy one that has an in command or similar system or a residential fridge. But that's just me.

[kfxgreenie]

I know of a Jayco user with a Frigidaire Residential Refer that is having and has had a warranty nightmare. First unit had a cracked liner, he would not let them patch the liner and it took probably 2 months to get it replaced after back and forth with the dealer and Frigidaire and Jayco. Replacement unit was finally put in July of last year. Fast forward to about a month ago, replacement unit no cooling when dewinterized. Probably out of refrigerant. Either way Frigidaire warranty repair centers will not work on the unit when it is in the RV and understandably so, there is no space to work. Customer was tired of the run around, bought a Kitchenaid Counter Depth French Door that I recommended as all boards (there's only 1) are in the refrigerator, it is not a Variable speed compressor, and overall the design have just been workhorses for years now, and exchanged the unit himself. The unit does have an Icemaker in the drawer and a interior water dispenser, but he does not want to deal with winterizing and did not hook that up. I don't blame him as the only way that i actually see to 100% winterize a unit with an Icemaker is to bypass the filter, pump in the pink stuff out the water dispenser until pink, then leave the pump on with the pink stuff and leave the refer on, Icemaker on until it makes you some pink cubes. At that point you are 100% winterized and all solenoids on the fill valve (4-6) are purged, if you use air you will not get the all the water out of the valve and risk freezing. Customers Frigidaire is in his SB garage waiting for Frigidaire to repair it so he has a nice Garage beer fridge.

On Edit: What is the model # of your refrigerator? It would be interesting to see if it is a dual evaporator, variable speed compressor?

[twvette]

Thanks again everyone for the info and input. I am actually beyond the electric fridge not being practical for my dry camping as have big roof solar system and battery bank now plus an external 3K remote start generator to further help keep it topped off without going through excessive fuel when not getting much solar. It has just left a sour taste in my mouth and should have been prepared for this.

I actually store it up north for summer months so it actually does not see too many times of much heat. Rarely above 85 outside year around exposure as at dunes in winter months so no winterizing either. I did just see the info about the 110 degree limit I think John posted in another thread so will just use coolers until get it to cooler temps the few times I have it in Phoenix in excessive heat between seasons. It was in Phoenix last week at 107 when I turned it on before knowing this and was first time it took forever to even get below 70 degrees and never reached the ~48 lowest it will go until getting it up north and sitting all night at 70 degree interior temp. Another mistake I made was keeping several big cool packs in freezer ... they were likely acting as hot packs this time. I did not think electric fridges cared much but it is now obvious they do or at least has some impact probably even when working properly.

It is practical that the dealer turned it on many times in very excessive heat when on their lot as they had it for a year. Would not be surpised if it was even turned on at ~140 inside temps/~115 outside temps. It very well could be the compressor is toast.

The thought had crossed my mind it might just be best to pull it out myself, move it in the house, and then call a repair shop to fix. Pain but sometimes have to do what has to be done. Will look into that Kitchenaid as don't need ice or water dispenser. I could use a beer fridge too at house so might not leave another sour taste LOL!

[kfxgreenie]

Any newer residential fridge working under high or low temp conditions will not hold up. They all use very small compressors (Low Amperage) and very small amounts of freon. The compressors just cannot handle extreme conditions.

With that said, there are 3 models of counter depth refers that are all built similar you would need to measure to make sure the size is similar to the Samsung you have.

Whirlpool, Cheapest Real Stainless Steel (Fingerprints)
https://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen/re...rf540cwbm.html

Maytag, Fingerprint Resistant Stainless Steel (Clear Coated) Middle Price
https://www.maytag.com/kitchen/refri...fc2062fez.html

Kitchenaid, Real Stainless Steel (fingerprints) Highest Price, Best Warranty 5 Year Sealed System Parts And Labor, 10 Year Sealed System Parts.

http://www.kitchenaid.com/shop/major...rigerators-3/-[KRFC300ESS]-408402/KRFC300ESS/

No Matter the brand if you have a warranty problem you need to get the refer out of the RV somehow, unless you have a friendly dealer that will work with you and its not a sealed system problem. A lot of problems on these above can be solved diagnosed from the front of the unit. You would need to get to the rear if you had a sealed system issue, bad condenser fan, or bad start capacitor/relay. The other thing to remember on any refrigerator is to clean the condenser coil roughly once a year, and the best way to do that is to blow it out (compressed air, wet/dry vac on blow), most new ones you can not get a vacuum or brush into completely.

You are correct on your warm Icepack's (heat), but it really should not cause the unit to not cool down. Contrary though it is best once the unit is cold to keep it Full, or have it somewhat full even if it's just ice. The products you have in the freezer once cold are cold mass and maintain the cold better and keep the refrigerator running more efficiently. Once you open the door and let the air out and shut the door the products will also chill the air down much faster than an empty freezer and just the evaporator doing the temperature transfer.

[twvette]

Whats involved to actually get the fridge out? Have not looked yet to see how its secured and don't have access to it currently. Mine is on the main living room slide next to big sofa with a wall/divider between them and don't recall much room on any of the sides.

[Jeepshots]

So you're saying to stuff the fridge full of cold beer and pack the freezer full of ice cream... :

[kfxgreenie]

[QUOTE=twvette;237785]Whats involved to actually get the fridge out? Have not looked yet to see how its secured and don't have access to it currently. Mine is on the main living room slide next to big sofa with a wall/divider between them and don't recall much room on any of the sides.[/QUOTE

The Jayco Frigidaire had two screws through the bottom front into the floor on the slide and a steel bar they screwed across the top into the refrigerator cabinet (customer had frost where they put the screws not a good idear, air leak). Advised not to do the same on the new unit as they are semi permanent (move home-take back once a year) and strap/fasten/foam wedge somehow when moving. As far as actually getting it out he had to take all the doors and hinges off and work it out the slide around his island and out the door. I borrowed him a Yeats Appliance Cart and he said it made all the difference in the world for him and the campground crew.

https://www.yeatsdolly.com/product-page/model-14

[kfxgreenie]

Originally Posted by Jeepshots

So you're saying to stuff the fridge full of cold beer and pack the freezer full of ice cream... :

Yes just the necessities.

[canesfan]

Originally Posted by Jeepshots

So you're saying to stuff the fridge full of cold beer and pack the freezer full of ice cream... :

Fridge = beer, freezer = white lightning, it won't freeze and it won't go bad.

[twvette]

WOW, so was finally able to confirm the details and they found the left refrigerator door was missing the seal/gasket LOL. With all the run around the dealership got they could not do anything to get it fixed before I picked it up and now basically told me the only way it would likely get done under warranty is if I worked with the local Samsung repair shop to come to my house or similar. All this for a stupid $30 gasket ... just placed an order myself to be done with it. I am just hoping this is the case as I would think would notice something like that missing in how the door closes but did not. I store the toy hauler a good distance away so will just order it and hope it is missing to be an easy fix. With my luck the gasket wont be missing LOL.

[Rick52]

So, great dealer, did you tell them you'd be dry camping most of the time, or some of the time? Typical, ask no question, get no answers.....I'm an appliance repair business, I will not work on Samsung or LG appliances, for starters, they have no customer support, or parts support. IMHO, no one should ever accept anything but an a/c, l/p refrigerator for their rv. You can't run a residential refrigerator for more than a few hours on your battery setup. If you're on a normal campsite you're good, if you're dry camping you're l/p will pull you through. Missing gasket is ridiculous, I can't believe that is really the problem.....

[kfxgreenie]

Originally Posted by Rick52

Missing gasket is ridiculous, I can't believe that is really the problem.....

I'm with you.

[twvette]

The door gasket was indeed missing. With the center door flapper on this fridge it is just hard to tell its missing where as on most fridges I think it would be much more obvious tension difference when closing. Fridge easily made it down to low 30's in no time now like it should so seems did not damage the compressor.

Door gasket was very easy to install ... just presses in. Only had to remove the two screws holding the center flapper on the door. There was to my surprise some door heater electrical connector and it managed to come disconnected and the other end of cable disappeared into door. No effect on fridge operation and I think it just keeps the stainless steel door panel at a normal temperature so not worried about this and hopefully some more energy savings.

Now that it should not be running continuously hoping to see much improved battery life out of my 500aH battery bank/500W solar setup. Even with this problem I only struggled a little overnight with heavy heater use for the most part as we get lots of sun in AZ during day almost all the time.