Getting rid of Convertor

[Fishsizzle]

Bear with me, as I’m not an electrician, and learning as I read and trying to make sense of what I’ve read.

So picking up a new Alpine with Res Fridge.

I’m thinking about upping to 4-6 6volt batteries to get my amp hrs up in the 400-600 range

I want to put in a magnum 3000 hybrid.

I’ve read tons about others systems, and I’m not sure why some add a sub panel? To me, it seems you can just take the shore power off the Convertor and move it to the Magum which charges more efficient at 5 stages.

I’ve read where you can isolate the converter, put a pigtail on it and use it as a charger should you inverter fail.

I can leave off breakers that I don’t want on when on battery power.
And my understanding is the Magnum has an auto transfer switch so it knows when shore power is hooked up. And also can use batteries to boost the start up of an ac when you have a small generator hooked up.

Will add solar next year, totally different topic.

Am I way off in my thinking? Again, any insight is helpful.

[xrated]

I'm not sure if you have an F250 or not....or how it's equipped or not, but I would definitely check into pulling a trailer that size (15,500 lbs GVW) with an F250. It sounds to me like you are going to be......way too much trailer for the truck.

[travelin texans]

Converter & inverter are 2 different/seperate electrical devices.
The converter switches 120 volt to 12 volt to operate lights, awnings, hydraulic pump, charge batteries & control panels to thermostats, water heaters, etc. Invertors switch 12 volt to 120 volt to run your residential fridge & possibly a plug or 2, not air conditioners, microwaves.
Don't think you can do away with converter completely. But I'm no electricIan either.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by xrated

I'm not sure if you have an F250 or not....or how it's equipped or not, but I would definitely check into pulling a trailer that size (15,500 lbs GVW) with an F250. It sounds to me like you are going to be......way too much trailer for the truck.

I’m good thanks 2017 F250 is right at that Trailer

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Converter & inverter are 2 different/seperate electrical devices.
The converter switches 120 volt to 12 volt to operate lights, awnings, hydraulic pump, charge batteries & control panels to thermostats, water heaters, etc. Invertors switch 12 volt to 120 volt to run your residential fridge & possibly a plug or 2, not air conditioners, microwaves.
Don't think you can do away with converter completely. But I'm no electricIan either.

Sorry should have clarified better, I’m still wrapping my head around it.

When the using the inverter, it would still goto the main panel and power the breakers there, and use the Convertor to power the DC. I just wouldn’t run shore power to it solely. Also would not use it to charge batteries. I would use it with a pigtail (plug in) should the inverter conk out

Thanks for input!

[jsmith948]

Originally Posted by Fishsizzle

I’m good thanks 2017 F250 is right at that Trailer

If you say so...but, sorry...I don't see an F250 with enough payload to handle 3100# or more of pin weight.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by jsmith948

If you say so...but, sorry...I don't see an F250 with enough payload to handle 3100# or more of pin weight.

Ok thanks! Appreciate your input, but I’m not after my towing set up, really trying to talk about my electrical set up. Thanks for your input though

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by jsmith948

If you say so...but, sorry...I don't see an F250 with enough payload to handle 3100# or more of pin weight.

Just to check, am I reading this wrong? Straight off Ford.com. And I’m not trying to be right, just feel comfortable in my set up.

Regular Cab Super Cab Crew Cab
GVWR (lbs). 141.5" 147.9" 164.1" 159.7". 175.9"
F-250 SRW 4x2
9,900 4,150 3,900 3,810 3,780 3,540
9,950 4,200 - - - -
10,000 4,000 3,910 3,880 3,640
F-250 SRW 4x4
9,900 3,730 3,460 3,390 3,350 3,130
10,000 3,830 3,560 3,490 3,450 3,305

I have the 10,000 GVW package and believe I’m reading 3450 lbs for payload?

And hitch weight of 5th is 2950 so I have 500 lbs left for a hitch?

Maybe I’m reading I wrong, now back to the electrical

[Ken / Claudia]

I do not understand your end game in changing all that and at what cost in time and money. Off grid only, use solar and wind.
Traveling and camping the addition of the 6v batteries helps. Shore power, use it when available when not use a genny and solar.
Maybe remove that refer and get another less needy of electricity if that is your main reason.
If it was me, I would wait until you have it and use it awhile before doing any major changes. Some day are you selling the unit, if so can you change every back to factory if not you limit the value and who might want it. I am guessing here that dealers will not want it on their lot.
I have known several who always want to make a better mouse trap with there vehicles and find later at resell they spend money with little or no gain and lots of head aches for their time.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

I do not understand your end game in changing all that and at what cost in time and money. Off grid only, use solar and wind.
Traveling and camping the addition of the 6v batteries helps. Shore power, use it when available when not use a genny and solar.
Maybe remove that refer and get another less needy of electricity if that is your main reason.
If it was me, I would wait until you have it and use it awhile before doing any major changes. Some day are you selling the unit, if so can you change every back to factory if not you limit the value and who might want it. I am guessing here that dealers will not want it on their lot.
I have known several who always want to make a better mouse trap with there vehicles and find later at resell they spend money with little or no gain and lots of head aches for their time.

Main thing is to have more reserve amp hrs for fridge. The better inverter handles charging and takes bette care of the batteries than the Convertor ever will.

I’m just changing out the inverter already in the trailer for a better one, adding more reserve and taking the charging off the converters hands. There’s not a lot of rewiring involved.

Just curious if any others have gone down this road. I have the small Yamaha but as I mentioned in other posts. Just not thrilled about running it a lot.

We dry camp 3-4 times a year from 5-14 days. And it would be nice to travel places and not stay in RV parks.

Thanks for giving me ideas. I’m still formulating in my head and still don’t have the best grasp for sure.

[travelin texans]

You'll have to get information from someone much smarter than me to rewire a rv. I know they build them with both converter & inverter & they work just fine, but not sure what your end goal is other than boondocking with a residential fridge, so good luck.
Personally I'd get the rv fridge, much cheaper, less work & it'll run on propane for 14+ days no problem.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

You'll have to get information from someone much smarter than me to rewire a rv. I know they build them with both converter & inverter & they work just fine, but not sure what your end goal is other than boondocking with a residential fridge, so good luck.
Personally I'd get the rv fridge, much cheaper, less work & it'll run on propane for 14+ days no problem.

For sure! Yeah I’m sold on the Res fridge and just wanting to work with it.

Agree, it’s a different beast.

Thanks for checking in on this for me.

[Ken / Claudia]

Well, I have to change my opinions. I just read through the post started 12-8-16 by TWVETTE regarding these problems you have read about.
Why not take their findings to a electric shop and get it done. They never said the cost but, I suspect more than hundreds were involved. But, it worked as you read. I would never take it on myself and I rewired my home 2 years ago from 125 amp to 200 and changed out the meter, mast and panel with help. As you said your not a electrician get it done right and safe, pay to do it and be happy it works.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

Well, I have to change my opinions. I just read through the post started 12-8-16 by TWVETTE regarding these problems you have read about.
Why not take their findings to a electric shop and get it done. They never said the cost but, I suspect more than hundreds were involved. But, it worked as you read. I would never take it on myself and I rewired my home 2 years ago from 125 amp to 200 and changed out the meter, mast and panel with help. As you said your not a electrician get it done right and safe, pay to do it and be happy it works.

That’s one of the threads I’ve been following.

Yeah I have rv electric people in town, and an electrician I trade work with. The main thing for me is to understand it. I really like to know how
It works, and is it beyond my thinking! Just taught myself ohms few years back while restoring my Bronco. The fan speeds changed as the resistance changed, opened a whole new world to me. Thanks!

[chuckster57]

Magnum makes a quality product. We have done a couple of installs like your describing. With an inverter/charger you can eliminate the factory converter. It’s not simple but can be done.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Magnum makes a quality product. We have done a couple of installs like your describing. With an inverter/charger you can eliminate the factory converter. It’s not simple but can be done.

Ok so at least I’m not off my rocker.

I haven’t dug into the wiring as I pick it up
Monday.

It has an invertor already, but I thinking 1000watt and probably 1 deep cycle 12 volt as everyone else states.

I’ll post back as I trace stuff down and if anyone else wants to add info, hay would be awesome!

I know the Mag Inveter is $1700 off amazon plus controller. Will probably add a better monitor.

Batteries I will start with flooded unless I find a good deal on AGM.

Solar is down the road if I want it, or need it.

Thanks for responding

[xrated]

Fishsizzle........do you already have the truck? If you do, please share with us what the white/yellow sticker on the driver side door post says you have for cargo/payload capacity.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by xrated

Fishsizzle........do you already have the truck? If you do, please share with us what the white/yellow sticker on the driver side door post says you have for cargo/payload capacity.

Well what do you know. It is off from what is printed in their guide when buying a truck. What’s up with that? I bought this truck off the guide that I looked through!

[JRTJH]

That chart is NOT the actual payload of any truck on the dealer's lot. That's the "best case, base model, no options" payload. If, for example, you have a diesel engine, that's about 800 pounds off that 3445. If it's a Lariat, deduct another 250+ pounds. Add a tonneau cover, deduct another 100 pounds. Add a DW, deduct her weight from the payload.

You're doing good to find a 2017 F250 XLT or Lariat diesel 4x4 with a payload of 2500 pounds. By the time you add a fifth wheel hitch, "reasonable" cargo and passengers, you're looking at the capability to tow a small fifth wheel with a pin weight under 1800 pounds.

Anything longer, heavier or loaded more than that and you're in F350 or with most fifth wheels over 14,000 pounds, in dually territory.

Your plans to add 6 batteries to the forward compartment, each weighing almost 100 pounds is going to make staying under the payload of any F250 impossible, even with something as small as my Cougar 27RKS. We're at maximum GVW of 10K with our trailer that weighs in about 9600 pounds when loaded for travel.

ADDED: Looking at the Ford website: https://www.ford.com/trucks/super-du...s/f250-lariat/ The BASE model F250 XL 4x4 diesel (with no options) has a curb weight of 7264 lbs. With a 10K gvw, that means the MAXIMUM base model F250 Diesel 4x4 can not have a payload more than 2736 lbs. Add optional equipment and packages and it will go down from that figure.

Look at the yellow sticker on the driver's door post to get the payload of the actual truck you own or are looking to buy. That yellow sticker is your "do not exceed" weight limit per the Ford owner's manual. Some people may tell you it's OK to ignore that sticker. I'm not one of them and am not a proponent of suggesting anyone tow over their maximum truck ratings, payload, GVW, GCWR and Max Trailer rating. They ALL must be within the maximum rating. It's not a "pick and choose" which one fits.

[Fishsizzle]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

That chart is NOT the actual payload of any truck on the dealer's lot. That's the "best case, base model, no options" payload. If, for example, you have a diesel engine, that's about 800 pounds off that 3445. If it's a Lariat, deduct another 250+ pounds. Add a tonneau cover, deduct another 100 pounds. Add a DW, deduct her weight from the payload.

You're doing good to find a 2017 F250 XLT or Lariat diesel 4x4 with a payload of 2500 pounds. By the time you add a fifth wheel hitch, "reasonable" cargo and passengers, you're looking at the capability to tow a small fifth wheel with a pin weight under 1800 pounds.

Anything longer, heavier or loaded more than that and you're in F350 or with most fifth wheels over 14,000 pounds, in dually territory.

Your plans to add 6 batteries to the forward compartment, each weighing almost 100 pounds is going to make staying under the payload of any F250 impossible, even with something as small as my Cougar 27RKS. We're at maximum GVW of 10K with our trailer that weighs in about 9600 pounds when loaded for travel.

Well eye opener for sure. Kinda misleading on Fords part. Dam.