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Old 12-13-2018, 08:47 AM   #21
beerjay
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Hi,
Left my trailer in storage outside a couple of years ago. Murphy arranged that the socket for the rear light (in the pass through) was bumped out.
Opened up to a city of field mice later that year since we hadn't used it.
I found that using steel wool (or the copper) will seal up holes so they can't get in. Mice will dig out foam unless its the commercial sealant used at the factory.
Dryer sheets don't work, mothballs don't work. If you don't have mice and you use those methods there is no access for them to get into the trailer.
BJ
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:56 AM   #22
moodman
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Originally Posted by PARAPTOR View Post
There is always a simple natural solution ... Also good exercise for the cats !!
The trouble with this option is you're just switching one critter for another.
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Old 12-13-2018, 12:28 PM   #23
ubetcha
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Get a couple cans of expanding spray foam and seal as many holes as you can find on the underbelly and frame rails. Then buy a couple of boxes of FRESH CAB "bontanical rodent repellant" and put the packets throughout your trailer and in the storage spaces. That should help keep them out of your trailer.

Good Luck with parking it "next to a mouse haven" and trying to keep them from looking for a safe, warm place to spend the winter......
I use the Great Stuff rodent deterrent spray foam in the green can. Suppose to have some sort of hot pepper like ingredient in it I understand.
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Old 12-13-2018, 12:29 PM   #24
CelticRose
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Here's another vote for Fresh Cab. The first year we used it plus cotton balls soaked in peppermint oil. Worked very well. Tried original Irish Spring last winter. Guess I thought it would be easier than soaking all those cotton balls. Had a horrible mouse infestation! Used a lot of bars of soap and they had a field day eating it. Have no idea why they would find it appetizing. Back to Fresh Cab and peppermint oil on cotton balls this year. Fingers crossed.
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Old 12-13-2018, 01:09 PM   #25
Local150
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Don't leave anything like paper towels in there either,, they love paper,, good to build a nest out of. I know a guy who lives on a farm and he had a 2 year old TT and because of mouse damage the insurance called it a total loss
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Old 12-13-2018, 03:04 PM   #26
lmf580
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Mice

I have had good luck with peppermint oil. You need the 100% stuff. It is sold on eBay. Brand name is NOW. I put it on cotton balls and paper towels and scatter them around in the trailer. Also made 2 sleeves out of 3" stove pipe to put around the front power jack legs (5er). Done this for the past 6 yrs, so far so good.
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Old 12-13-2018, 03:09 PM   #27
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That sounds interesting,, especially putting the sleeves around landing gear,, good idea
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Old 12-13-2018, 05:34 PM   #28
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Another trick is a bucket with a couple of inches of antifreeze a ramp from the floor to bucket top and a pop bottle/can with peanut butter on it with a wire strung through it from the bucket sides. The mouse jumps to get the peanut butter and the bottle/can spins dropping them into the antifreeze. Nice thing about this over traps is you don't miss an opportunity to get more than one
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:02 PM   #29
Local150
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Mice

A friend of mine uses the bucket thing but he just puts water in it ,, they eventually drown. He is afraid a pet may get into the anti freeze. I also tried uncle Gus' this is year,, so far so good. Or grandpa Gus or whatever it is lol
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Old 12-14-2018, 04:48 AM   #30
ubetcha
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I had read somewhere that if one was going to use steel wool , use stainless steel wool as the metal strands stay sharp and mice will eat through regular steel wool.
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Old 12-14-2018, 06:21 AM   #31
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A friend of mine uses the bucket thing but he just puts water in it ,, they eventually drown. He is afraid a pet may get into the anti freeze. I also tried uncle Gus' this is year,, so far so good. Or grandpa Gus or whatever it is lol
If it's in the trailer a pet can't get to it. Also if you live where it freezes the water the mice will just have a nice skating party. Heck maybe more would jump in to party with them
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:02 PM   #32
RagingRobert
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The endless war against the mouse eh Great thread really...you have to be ready for the enemy or they will do maximum damage or destroy your RV.
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:12 AM   #33
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It appears that the builders only own a 2 1/2 inches hole saw and an axe.
I noticed this too. Where the wires came up through the floor at my breaker panel is where a mouse got into ours.
I went in the trailer a few years ago and noticed a tissue pulled out of the box laying on the floor next to the bed. I picked it up, checked the next day and found the same thing but this time it was by my breaker box. Below my breaker box it has wood slats like a vent and after shining a flashlight on it I could see dust had been wiped off when the mouse was dragging the tissues through the vent and through the floor to the outside.
Well after a can of expanding foam the entryway was sealed up.
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Old 12-15-2018, 09:13 AM   #34
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Have a look under your shower base. You could fit a cat in the hole they made for the drain pipe.
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Old 12-15-2018, 09:30 AM   #35
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Have a look under your shower base. You could fit a cat in the hole they made for the drain pipe.
Maybe the shower base "cat hole" was a design feature to provide protection from critters that come in through the "mouse hole" ??????
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:17 AM   #36
RagingRobert
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I couldn't believe the size of the hole in the floor when I removed that little panel on the shower base. I first thought the wood chips were from the enemy but I soon realized it was the Keystone butcher who cut the hole with probably a chainsaw.
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:30 AM   #37
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There are some "hole size considerations" based on variability tolerances in RV construction. A 1/4" tolerance on PEX tubing length over 5 connections would mean the PEX could be 1.25" longer or shorter than the blueprint calls for, so cutting a 3" hole assures the pipe will be in the right place when the chassis is turned over and the 8' x 34' single piece floor is lowered into positon. Then, with the shower, as an example, if they need 6" in all directions to attach the drain lines to the shower base, there are 6 lengths of PVC pipe (all with that 1/4" tolerance) and a gray tank with a 1" tolerance to the 1.5" drain fitting..... It's easy to see why they need a 12" hole for a 3" fitting.

Could they do better? Yeah, most definitely they could spend more time measuring and cut the hole size in half by making all the tolerances 1/8" rather than 1/4". But if doing that means a $20 increase in production cost, factor in the affect on the MSRP, the potential for "redo" that adds $200+ to the cost of stopping the line while they pull the floor to redo the problem, or alternatively, taking a rip saw (or axe) to make the hole bigger..... Well, those are not acceptable solutions either....

While I'm not an advocate for the factory (seems like I am at times) I do understand why they do things the way they do. It's a "fine line balancing act" between staying competitive with Forest River and Jayco while not having to "hack apart trailer floors" giving the appearance of a mistake when the customer sees the axe marks.....

I do wish someone (Lippert maybe) would come up with something more than those white or black plastic "hole covers" that the manufacturer staples around every floor access hole. They last until the first time something gets dragged over the floor and then the buyer exclaims: WOW, look at the size of that hole !!! What were they thinking when they built this damn thing ?????
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