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Old 07-27-2023, 05:49 PM   #21
chuckster57
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Last pic is too close. Can you take an “overall” pic showing the battery and the cables?
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Old 07-27-2023, 05:58 PM   #22
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Last pic is too close. Can you take an “overall” pic showing the battery and the cables?
Sorry, this is the only view I can get, that shows the red cable from the battery, connected to the frame.
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Old 07-27-2023, 06:16 PM   #23
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Sorry, this is the only view I can get, that shows the red cable from the battery, connected to the frame.
Are you sure that red cable that's attached to the frame "really has the other end connected to the + battery terminal ???? If your trailer has a solar system, an inverter or some other "high amp equipment" installed, that cable may not go "directly to the battery".

Without putting "fingers on your cable" I can't say for sure just what that cable is or where the other end is connected, but I can assure you that if it's connected to the battery + terminal and the black cable is "correctly wired", then your battery is "shorted to ground" and the cable would be smoking by now.....

Something just doesn't add up and I'd guess that cable doesn't go to the + battery terminal.
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Old 07-27-2023, 06:29 PM   #24
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Giggy Box????

When you say junction box, are you referring to the Giggi Box withe red knob that disconnects the battery from the trailer other than the towing equipment?
https://www.keystonerv.com/owners-how-to/giggy-box
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Old 07-27-2023, 06:32 PM   #25
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Doubt that you are tracing the same cable!
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Old 07-28-2023, 05:40 AM   #26
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When you say junction box, are you referring to the Giggi Box withe red knob that disconnects the battery from the trailer other than the towing equipment?
https://www.keystonerv.com/owners-how-to/giggy-box
Yes, and I don't like the sloppy feel of that knob when turning it on and off.
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Old 07-28-2023, 05:44 AM   #27
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Are you sure that red cable that's attached to the frame "really has the other end connected to the + battery terminal ???? If your trailer has a solar system, an inverter or some other "high amp equipment" installed, that cable may not go "directly to the battery".

Without putting "fingers on your cable" I can't say for sure just what that cable is or where the other end is connected, but I can assure you that if it's connected to the battery + terminal and the black cable is "correctly wired", then your battery is "shorted to ground" and the cable would be smoking by now.....

Something just doesn't add up and I'd guess that cable doesn't go to the + battery terminal.
That cable goes straight from the frame as pic shows -to the plus terminal of the battery.
I can't explain it any better. I'm going this afternoon and use a volt meter.
I guess this attachment at the frame might be insulated?
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Old 07-28-2023, 05:49 AM   #28
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Wasn’t there a thread similar to this one earlier this spring where a bundle of wires at the positive terminal looked like it did one thing, but ended up not being contiguous? I don’t recall a resolution to that one. It would be interesting if they were similar models.
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Old 07-28-2023, 06:15 AM   #29
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One easy thing to do is check continuity on the cable. Disconnect the red cable from the battery and use a volt-Ohm meter, see if the cable shows continuity from the cable end to the frame. If there is not continuity, then this cable is not connected to the frame. If it does show continuity, my comment is WTF.

I have been RVing since 1984 and NEVER trust the color coding of wiring for 120 volt AC or 12-volt DC. Before connecting any RV devices, I use a volt-Ohm meter to check polarity for the wires.

Ken
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Old 07-28-2023, 06:20 AM   #30
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One easy thing to do is check continuity on the cable. Disconnect the red cable from the battery and use a volt-Ohm meter, see if the cable shows continuity from the cable end to the frame. If there is not continuity, then this cable is not connected to the frame. If it does show continuity, my comment is WTF.

I have been RVing since 1984 and NEVER trust the color coding of wiring for 120 volt AC or 12-volt DC. Before connecting any RV devices, I use a volt-Ohm meter to check polarity for the wires.

Ken
Yes - I will check this your way and will check volts from pos + to frame.
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Old 07-28-2023, 06:56 AM   #31
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Yes - I will check this your way and will check volts from pos + to frame.
Remember that you can NOT "check voltage" by putting a volt meter lead on the two ends of the same wire..... So, putting one test lead on the + battery terminal (with that red wire connected) and putting the other test lead on the red wire you suspect is the same) at the "rivet into the frame", if you do read 12 volts, then it can't be the same wire.

As an further explanation, putting a test lead on two ends of the same wire is "electrically the same" as putting both leads on the + battery terminal. Your voltmeter will read 0 volts.

So, if you read 12 volts from the + battery terminal to the end of "the same wire" connected to the frame, then you can NOT be reading "the same wire"....
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Old 07-28-2023, 08:25 AM   #32
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I was hoping that you know how to use a VOM or volt-Ohm-meter to and read voltage and continuity.

You use the Ohm setting to check continuity of a wire. You use the voltage (DC setting) to read volts.

To confirm that the + terminal on the battery is actually connected to the ground, you will not get a voltage reading when you check the + terminal voltage to ground or the frame. Put the red lead from the meter on the + post and the black lead of the meter to a close by unpainted frame point. If it reads 12 to 13 VDC, that terminal is not connected to the ground. If it reads zero volts, that is connected to the ground or frame.

Ken
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Old 07-28-2023, 10:20 AM   #33
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Well - sometimes you just stop and regroup your brain, when a new discovery smacks you in the face.

I checked volts from battery + to frame ground. Result 12.48 volts.

So I'm happy to know my system polarized correctly. And the positive red cable going to the frame is got me stumped.

Next move, I get a stiff brush and clean off the terminal the red cable is attached to the frame with a pop rivet. Oh!!! Surprise!!!
I'm looking at a wire clamp squeezing the red cable to the frame with a pop rivet.

I have a lot of egg on my face now! I do appreciate everyone's help from the beginning of my search to solve this problem.

Lesson learned. DDoug
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Old 07-28-2023, 11:14 AM   #34
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No egg, we’ve all been where your at. The infamous P clamp stricks again
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Old 07-28-2023, 11:30 AM   #35
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We've all had our "moments" at some time or another. Don't sweat it.
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Old 07-29-2023, 08:35 AM   #36
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I wish it was "only once" that I've had that kind of "senior moment" or "obvious disillusion"... Happens on a regular basis, sometime over and over when looking at the same thing... Then, I see what my wife sees and clearly points out to me..... So, "it happens to all of us, don't worry about the egg, just make an omlette.....
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Old 07-29-2023, 11:51 AM   #37
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Now you guys make me feel allot better; thank-you.
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Old 08-03-2023, 09:07 AM   #38
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Thanks for your advice. I don't trust my dealer service manager, because of previous bad experience. If all the 12-volt systems really don't care about polarity; I will feel better changing the cables to correct old school teachings. Do you know if the convertors designate polarity?
EHVerything "DC" (direct current) is polarity sensitive. Do not plug that thing in, do not connect it, until you find out the truth. The battery positive never goes to the frame. Ever.
There is a good chance of ruining good electronic equipment, or even having a fire if that gets connected.
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Old 08-03-2023, 09:08 AM   #39
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I wish it was "only once" that I've had that kind of "senior moment" or "obvious disillusion"... Happens on a regular basis, sometime over and over when looking at the same thing... Then, I see what my wife sees and clearly points out to me..... So, "it happens to all of us, don't worry about the egg, just make an omlette.....
I wish they had a like button in the software. What you said is profound. More importantly, it's absolutely 100% true.
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Old 08-03-2023, 09:11 AM   #40
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That used to be true until they all became LED lights...
An LED is a Light Emitting Diode. A diode, by design, only directs current in one way. It won't operate in the other.
That's what it is intended to do.
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